Removing Tow Hooks

[mdk77]

Lol, a good portion of us have gone down the upgrade rabbit hole...well since I'm here I may as well do this and that...one thing leads to another which justifies another reason to continue to modify/upgrade. One might say it's an affliction.

I was browsing wheels and tires earlier ha

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[mdk77]

I’ll post some before after pics later this week when I got everything in

 

[Dialtone]

What benefits would I get and how difficult is that process?

Not much use on a stock motor. There are other options that should come before an IC. The "heat soak" trope is overused. The factory IC will be fine. What is almost always neglected with the heat soak statement is; it will always soak sitting in traffic which is where the vast majority of driving is done for many. And once it does soak, and it will, it also takes longer to shed the heat. The advantage to a larger IC comes in to play best when, your engine flows more than stock and you can prove the IC has become a choke point.

 

[Brian_B]

will always soak sitting in traffic

Hmm. Usually when I’m stuck sitting in traffic my boost gage is pegged at 0. Nothing for the IC to cool if there is no boost.

I don’t necessarily disagree with the rest of what you say though - you make good points

 

[mdk77]

Well I started my upgrades and already ran into an issue. I cannot get the plastic bumper bolts off. Tried the ratchet , drill, hammer drill, driver drill. They will NOT budge. Any ideas? I have the correct 15 MM socket.

 

[Brian_B]

Well I started my upgrades and already ran into an issue. I cannot get the plastic bumper bolts off. Tried the ratchet , drill, hammer drill, driver drill. They will NOT budge. Any ideas? I have the correct 15 MM socket.

PB Blaster + Cheater Bar?

 

[mdk77]

PB Blaster + Cheater Bar?

Ha ended up using torque wrench and that did it. Progress so far

 

[5GENIDN]

Hmm. Usually when I’m stuck sitting in traffic my boost gage is pegged at 0. Nothing for the IC to cool if there is no boost.

I don’t necessarily disagree with the rest of what you say though - you make good points

Hmmm... so how is Air getting into your intake? I understand that the turbos are adding no additional boost But I would think that the incoming air still has to transit the turbos (an even though they are not adding boost they are probably rather hot) and while doing so would pick up additional heat, then transit the intercooler to hopefully shed some of that heat. Unless there is some other path for incoming air when not in boost that I my engine does not have.

 

[Brian_B]

But I would think that the incoming air still has to transit the turbos (an even though they are not adding boost they are probably rather hot) and while doing so would pick up additional heat

The heat the intercooler is removing is coming from the compression of air. 0 boost = 0 compression. It's the same process where air compressors get really hot, but if you are venting an air tank, it gets really cold.

The turbos as a hunk of metal aren't really contributing to the process, as that would get pulled off relatively quickly since it isn't generating any more heat (at least until the next boost event), and the bearings and such are being oil cooled.

If your point stood - then that would be similar to running your radiator fan to keep cooling your engine block after you shut the engine off. Sure, there's some residual heat and you may see a momentary jump in a temp gage just because flow has stopped, but the temp isn't going to keep going up because there's no more heat being added.

So you aren't going to get heat soaked sitting at 0 psi boost. Naturally aspirated cars don't typically have intercoolers.

 

[5GENIDN]

The heat the intercooler is removing is coming from the compression of air. 0 boost = 0 compression. It's the same process where air compressors get really hot, but if you are venting an air tank, it gets really cold.

The turbos as a hunk of metal aren't really contributing to the process, as that would get pulled off relatively quickly since it isn't generating any more heat (at least until the next boost event), and the bearings and such are being oil cooled.

If your point stood - then that would be similar to running your radiator fan to keep cooling your engine block after you shut the engine off. Sure, there's some residual heat and you may see a momentary jump in a temp gage just because flow has stopped, but the temp isn't going to keep going up because there's no more heat being added.

So you aren't going to get heat soaked sitting at 0 psi boost. Naturally aspirated cars don't typically have intercoolers.

I am not suggesting you will even come close to heat soak when at 0 boost.... What I am suggesting is that much like your coolant IF you continued running it through the block after you shut down would come out the other end hotter than it went in.... You are right that it is compression that contributes to much of the heat gain when boosting.... But I will contend that the turbos ARE adding heat to the incoming air. The Turbos run very hot. And no they will NOT cool the incoming air they will heat it. The air is not expanding as it would leaving a tank.

Is an intercooler even necessary when at 0 boost? I think you are right... Probably not.

I guess where I took umbrage was the absolute of "nothing to cool." Where in relative terms you are correct...

 

[BAUS67]

......... then that would be similar to running your radiator fan to keep cooling your engine block after you shut the engine off.

I used to do this all the time at the drag races with my Stang. Electric water pump and fan so I could cool it down faster after a run. I would turn the key to accessory and run the blower motor to help cool it down with the heater core. Spray cold water through the rad. Ice down the intake. I learned lots of old school tricks back then. My Stang was a stick but I would see some of the old die hards even cut a hole in the bellhousing of their automatics so they could spray water on the convertor to cool it down. More consistent if temps are held in check.

 

[Brian_B]

I used to do this all the time at the drag races with my Stang.

Well, that's a bit different situation. In drag racing, your cooling system is usually drastically undersized -- your good to make it 1/4 mile (or however long), but not a bit longer so you can cut down on the weight. Even if you're doing a street conversion, you've usually tuned and overdone the top end by so much that it's left the cooling far far behind. A lot of drag racers don't even have a radiator, it's just a water tank, you get towed to the line before you even start the engine, and it's sized so that it hits just at boiling temp at the end of the run, and they just flush and refill with cool water between each race.

 

[Brian_B]

What I am suggesting is that much like your coolant IF you continued running it through the block after you shut down would come out the other end hotter than it went in.

Hmm.. would make for a good experiment. I may see if I can get the right parameters to data log on my ProCal tuner and see what it does in real life rather than me just guessing based on what I see at work.

You may be right, it may add a very small amount of heat even at idle (I don't think so, but I'm not above admitting it's possible), but I would bet that if that were to be true, the amount would be inconsequential and so much smaller in relation to the size of the intercooler. That, and the original point was someone saying you get heat soaked sitting stopped in traffic... so I don't want to get too side-railed from what my original point was.

 

[mdk77]

Ok well fellas need some help. Good news is I got the inter cooler in. I also got the dv8 bumper on. I am now stuck on wiring fogs and light bar

I have two fogs plugged into a harness I got from 4x4 leds. I am trying to wire the fogs to aux 1 and the back light to aux 2. Then there’s the ground.

No lights come on when wired this way. With the ground mounted the aux light box doesn’t even light so not sure what I’m doing wrong here

I took a picture. Aux 1 and 2 wires. Fl = fog light , bl = back light , g = ground

 

[Brian_B]

Ok well fellas need some help. Good news is I got the inter cooler in. I also got the dv8 bumper on. I am now stuck on wiring fogs and light bar

I have two fogs plugged into a harness I got from 4x4 leds. I am trying to wire the fogs to aux 1 and the back light to aux 2. Then there’s the ground.

No lights come on when wired this way. With the ground mounted the aux light box doesn’t even light so not sure what I’m doing wrong here

I took a picture. Aux 1 and 2 wires. Fl = fog light , bl = back light , g = ground

First thing I would try - mount your ground up at that ground bolt and then take each wire straight to your battery (+) and make sure the lights work. Just touch the wire. If there’s a short or anything it’ll get hot fast (or pop somewhere) and you can just pull it back off

Once you know the lights work it’s a matter of making sure you have the right wires for the right aux switches, and those fuses are good. And of course making sure you flip the switch on with auxillary power or truck running.

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