Sanity check

[JerryG]

My Bronco is in the shop having Icon Rebound Pros and Nitto 38s installed with a stage 8 Icon suspension. The shop told me they sent it out to a shop for alignment and it will need to have part of the bumper cut off tomorrow to get the wheels to fully turn. I need all of the flex and droop I can get not just trying to stuff big tires on.

I also installed a crash bar erase https://lobooffroad.com/product/crash-bar-erase-brace-kit-bronco/


I am being told that they need to cut part of the front bumper (capable bumper) to eliminate rubbing. I was anticipating them cutting some inner fender but is it normal to need to cut into the bumper? I was also told that they had to remove the Rokblokz front mud flaps because the tires hit the mounting bracket.

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[Bonnie6G]

Likely they’re talking about removing the crash bars, which is common for larger tires like that.

 

[Baja Bronco]

Couple of things I can address, I’m running Icon Stage 8 with 37s.
1 - Did you get the billet or tube UCAs. Seems like the tube ones might be off a hair from posts I’ve read everywhere. That’s strictly a guess though.
2 - Are your Rebound Pros 0 offset?
3 - I now have an ADD front bumper, but when I had the modular one, it didn’t rub.
4 - I didn’t have crash bars, Sasquatch OBX.
5 - Didn’t do any inner fender cutting.
6 - Mine only rubbed on the stock Bronco running boards. I wasn’t concerned because i had bought Go Rhino boards. I was afraid that rock kick up in Baja would shatter the stock boards.

Now, saying all that, make sure that your shop really sets up the reservoirs. If they’re not perfect, the UCAs can chop the lines. Icon came up with a revision, but I had an older kit. It’s a free fix anyway .

I would also recommend key the word recommend running tires anywhere from 37s up, you might want to look at aftermarket tie rods.

 

[JerryG]

Likely they’re talking about removing the crash bars, which is common for larger tires like that.

It was already a Sasquatch with the crash bar removed. Then I added the Lobo kit which completely removes the stub and braces the front bumper.

 

[JerryG]

Couple of things I can address, I’m running Icon Stage 8 with 37s.
1 - Did you get the billet or tube UCAs. Seems like the tube ones might be off a hair from posts I’ve read everywhere. That’s strictly a guess though.
2 - Are your Rebound Pros 0 offset?
3 - I now have an ADD front bumper, but when I had the modular one, it didn’t rub.
4 - I didn’t have crash bars, Sasquatch OBX.
5 - Didn’t do any inner fender cutting.
6 - Mine only rubbed on the stock Bronco running boards. I wasn’t concerned because i had bought Go Rhino boards. I was afraid that rock kick up in Baja would shatter the stock boards.

Now, saying all that, make sure that your shop really sets up the reservoirs. If they’re not perfect, the UCAs can chop the lines. Icon came up with a revision, but I had an older kit. It’s a free fix anyway .

I would also recommend key the word recommend running tires anywhere from 37s up, you might want to look at aftermarket tie rods.

1. Billet
2. Yes
3. I have the capable bumper currently but will most likely change it to a Lobo HNT
4. Same here
5. I was hoping not to also
6. My running boards are from Rock slide engineering

I have no confidence in my shop at this point. They had an issue mounting the reservoirs and Icon had them bend them to fit. I still haven't seen it yet and will have another shop inspect the setup.

I had the ICON HD tie rods installed at the same time and have a Hoss 3.0 with 74Weld housing being shipped to me in August.

 

[Baja Bronco]

1. Billet
2. Yes
3. I have the capable bumper currently but will most likely change it to a Lobo HNT
4. Same here
5. I was hoping not to also
6. My running boards are from Rock slide engineering

I have no confidence in my shop at this point. They had an issue mounting the reservoirs and Icon had them bend them to fit. I still haven't seen it yet and will have another shop inspect the setup.

I had the ICON HD tie rods installed at the same time and have a Hoss 3.0 with 74Weld housing being shipped to me in August.

Hmmmmm, not sure why you’re rubbing or the shop is that concerned? Basically the same between us. Only other thing I could recommend is when you get it, or check it out, see what your clearance is? I’m at 43” at all 4 corners from level floor to Sasquatch flare.

Yeah, if you don’t have confidence in a shop, it doesn’t make it any easier.

Oh yeah, one more very important tip (well to me at least), have this shop or the next one you take it to torque paint every suspension bolt there is. They’re putting in the suspension kit. Makes it easier to check after an offroad run.Find a mark moved, only bolt you need tighten. Instead of checking everyone.

 

[JerryG]

Hmmmmm, not sure why you’re rubbing or the shop is that concerned? Basically the same between us. Only other thing I could recommend is when you get it, or check it out, see what your clearance is? I’m at 43” at all 4 corners from level floor to Sasquatch flare.

Yeah, if you don’t have confidence in a shop, it doesn’t make it any easier.

Oh yeah, one more very important tip (well to me at least), have this shop or the next one you take it to torque paint every suspension bolt there is. They’re putting in the suspension kit. Makes it easier to check after an offroad run.Find a mark moved, only bolt you need tighten. Instead of checking everyone.

Thanks for the tip- I just sent an email to the shop to ask them to torque paint all of the bolts.

Without being able to see it myself I am having a hard time understanding why they want to cut the front bumper.

 

[Beach_Bum]

Thanks for the tip- I just sent an email to the shop to ask them to torque paint all of the bolts.

Without being able to see it myself I am having a hard time understanding why they want to cut the front bumper.

You said it is the capable bumper. It has more "coverage" than the modular bumper. With the 38's, them having to shave off the inner edge makes sense.

 

[Baja Bronco]

Thanks for the tip- I just sent an email to the shop to ask them to torque paint all of the bolts.

Without being able to see it myself I am having a hard time understanding why they want to cut the front bumper.

Yeah, if it was me, I wouldn’t let them do it. If anything, have them remove it. That way you can at least try and sell it for a few bucks.

 

[rguest3]

Thanks for the tip- I just sent an email to the shop to ask them to torque paint all of the bolts.

Without being able to see it myself I am having a hard time understanding why they want to cut the front bumper.

Icon Billet stage 8 here with 37s. No rubbing issues what so ever.

No max clearance kit.

Cut 1" off front of side steps. Was close, but actually did not touch before.

18x9 Wheels with +18 Offset.

Not close to the Front Bumper.

 

[Beach_Bum]

Yeah, if it was me, I wouldn’t let them do it. If anything, have them remove it. That way you can at least try and sell it for a few bucks.

That would be the best course of action. The capable bumper definitely hangs lower than the modular bumper. A high clearance bumper should be on the shopping list.

 

[BigHoof]

The rear part of the capable bumper is plastic. Does it come off easily to test fit?

 

[JerryG]

Yeah, if it was me, I wouldn’t let them do it. If anything, have them remove it. That way you can at least try and sell it for a few bucks.

That was my thought also. Yes that part is plastic. I'm going to see if we can remove vs. cut. Appreciate everyone's suggestions.

 

[BenBronco]

Why don't you go to the shop and have them explain why they feel the need to cut the bumper while showing you on the vehicle?

 

[TheGoodBadUgly]

1. Billet
2. Yes
3. I have the capable bumper currently but will most likely change it to a Lobo HNT
4. Same here
5. I was hoping not to also
6. My running boards are from Rock slide engineering

I have no confidence in my shop at this point. They had an issue mounting the reservoirs and Icon had them bend them to fit. I still haven't seen it yet and will have another shop inspect the setup.

I had the ICON HD tie rods installed at the same time and have a Hoss 3.0 with 74Weld housing being shipped to me in August.

Hey Jerry -- thought I would chime in here: I also had installed the Stage 8 Billet (Sasquatch version), too, with the OEM wheels (+30 offset) and with same sized tires as OEMs, 315/70 Mickey Thompson A/T tires, and with this combo the tires rubbed against the UCA on 3/4 to full turn.

Following ICONS "recommended" wheel/tire combo of 0 offset & 4.75" backspacing, I purchased new wheels fitting that spec and kept the same tires, and the tire rubbing issues was resolved.

However, I did run into passenger side reservoir hose that wore through due to rubbing on the UCA after 1 trip to Johnson Valley. But, due to a fitting leak on the driver's side hose, ICON warrantied both front shocks, and they were just installed yesterday.

The rubbing issue with UCA & hose requires careful manipulation of the hose to clear the UCA in full droop/travel....just thought you should know!

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