Sasquatch wheel beauty ring removal

[Cold_steel]

So a heat gun or soldering iron? The current blot heads are all 100% fine so I shouldn’t be replacing any unless something further happens.

I just need to get the two stubborn ones out now.

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[palley6]

May need to drill/bore them out with a smaller drill bit, honestly. If anyone finds suitable replacements please post that here because these things are trashed instantly.

 

[Cold_steel]

May need to drill/bore them out with a smaller drill bit, honestly. If anyone finds suitable replacements please post that here because these things are trashed instantly.

We are thankfully nowhere near that point. The heads on these are fine - dealer was able to get the damaged one out that is now replaced “with heat” but installed the ring in the wrong position. Need to figure out what kind of “heat” they may have used so I can just do this correctly now

 

[Cold_steel]

Ended up taking this back to the dealer and let them remove them - even with heat, they messed up both bolts I was having trouble with. Thankfully I did have two more spares from when I ordered the original 3.

Glad I let them do it as they are ordering 2 bolts to replace these ones.

they left them out so I could put them in and not overdo any Threadlocker as they are apparently “required” to reapply it on each bolt they install on these wheels.

hopefully I don’t have a repeat headache with that wheel when I swap them out for trail use.

the amount of “you should have the dealer do this” attitude I was catching was annoying, and I felt better after they ended up damaging bolts themselves.

with the amount of “you can do all of these panel swaps yourself!” Marketing, it seems like the dealers need to get on the same page with Ford about that.

 

[stanger1944]

And be generous with the stuff! Slather that shit on!

Going to have anti size on everything.

 

[Nogame24]

I've taken this complaint to a person that sent to the company that makes these for Ford. We swapped rings for a customer and had 6 strip out on a vehicle with no miles since delivery. After trying several Torx bits our conclusion is the socket is too shallow, bolt not hardened enough and Torx pattern out of spec. Tried to find other bolts with hex or at least stainless with no luck. The button head width is smaller than standard replacements and will not work in the recess machined into the rings.

We ended up drilling the centers out which we believe heated the loc tite enough for us to use an ez-out to extract.

These bolts are junk.

So I just stripped one bolt head taking mine off and its going to have to be drilled out. Is an EZ out kit best or what did you use? Also, what size bit did you use?

 

[flip]

The bit was one a size smaller than what fit in the allen pocket. Didn't bother looking but better to start out smaller to make sure the pilot hole is straight and progress up in size. Just used a spiral type ez out. The heat from drilling will help loosen the loc-tite on the threads so try to get the extractor on there as quickly as possible after drilling to up your chances of it coming out easier.

 

[Nogame24]

The bit was one a size smaller than what fit in the allen pocket. Didn't bother looking but better to start out smaller to make sure the pilot hole is straight and progress up in size. Just used a spiral type ez out. The heat from drilling will help loosen the loc-tite on the threads so try to get the extractor on there as quickly as possible after drilling to up your chances of it coming out easier.

What drill bit did you use. The one I grabbed from HF just made a bowl and didn’t dig worth anything.

 

[TCB-1]

Not really helping, but aren’t the SAS/WT rims made in China?

Back on task. I wholeheartedly agree with several folks here. Aluminum rims and steel bolts do not play nice. Anti seize is a must when putting them back on. Then, properly torque. Then go back in a week and retorque.

Heating up the bolt will also compromise the ring finish. The soldering iron contact heating method would be a good way to heat the bolt and save the finish.

 

[flip]

Ended up taking this back to the dealer and let them remove them - even with heat, they messed up both bolts I was having trouble with. Thankfully I did have two more spares from when I ordered the original 3.

Glad I let them do it as they are ordering 2 bolts to replace these ones.

they left them out so I could put them in and not overdo any Threadlocker as they are apparently “required” to reapply it on each bolt they install on these wheels.

hopefully I don’t have a repeat headache with that wheel when I swap them out for trail use.

the amount of “you should have the dealer do this” attitude I was catching was annoying, and I felt better after they ended up damaging bolts themselves.

with the amount of “you can do all of these panel swaps yourself!” Marketing, it seems like the dealers need to get on the same page with Ford about that.

The replacement bolts have the yellow threadlocker applied already. This sounds counter intuitive but applying some antisieze may help.

 

[flip]

What drill bit did you use. The one I grabbed from HF just made a bowl and didn’t dig worth anything.

It was a high speed steel. Unless they changed hardness specs, the hss cut like butter. If that doesn’t do it, hardware store for some cobalt.

 

[FDHog]

Not really helping, but aren’t the SAS/WT rims made in China?

Back on task. I wholeheartedly agree with several folks here. Aluminum rims and steel bolts do not play nice. Anti seize is a must when putting them back on. Then, properly torque. Then go back in a week and retorque.

Heating up the bolt will also compromise the ring finish. The soldering iron contact heating method would be a good way to heat the bolt and save the finish.

Be careful. When you apply anti seize, it changes the torque specs.

 

[TCB-1]

Be careful. When you apply anti seize, it changes the torque specs.

Yup! Need to go with “wet” torque value. Great catch

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