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Squatch Beadlock (beauty) Rings

Xinnes88X

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So apparently I was dumb and did not remove my beadlock rings before taking it over to my tire shop. Now the bolts connecting my beadlock rings are frozen to my wheels. Obviously they used an impact gun to remove them and tighten them. Any suggestions on how to get them loose now?

TY
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Doc TOC

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Agree with @ducksface. Go back to the shop and have them solve it. Easiest and smartest solution.

You could take a digital torque wrench (25-250 or better) and see what ft-lbs is needed to undo a bolt. They are supposed to be 22 fp/30 Nm. Anything over 35 fp/47 Nm begins thread deformation on those aluminum bolt holes. And yes, the beadlock thread is that low. The 100 fp/ 135 Nm is for the lug nut to brake flange mounting holes, not the bead rings.

If you are only running the beauty ring, then no big deal. Just getting the bolt out matters (replacing ugly stripped bolts, which are not inexpensive).

If you were eventually buying a set of real beadlock rings, and the threads are over-torqued , then you would want replacement wheels. The deformed bolts threads would never survive roadway vibration and the bolts would constantly come loose, or even fall out.

If it's just a matter of tight threads, then not a big deal. A 1/2 inch breaker bar (prefer an impact rated socket), a cheater bar (pipe), and a thick soled shoe should do the trick.
 

DALOLA

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Have you removed them before? Why would you try to remove them after the tire work was done? Do you know for a fact the tire shop removed them? Seems like an odd order of events..... 🤔
 

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Valhalla

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If they used an impact, you will be able to tell by the bolt head. The "hammering" will leave tell tell marks.
 

Rough Rider

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those bolts are lock tighted in from factory, so they are always hard to remove.
 

Valhalla

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those bolts are lock tighted in from factory, so they are always hard to remove.
Something about not wanting a metallic ring that is spinning to come off at highway speed I believe.
 

T800

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Agree with @ducksface. Go back to the shop and have them solve it. Easiest and smartest solution.

You could take a digital torque wrench (25-250 or better) and see what ft-lbs is needed to undo a bolt. They are supposed to be 22 fp/30 Nm. Anything over 35 fp/47 Nm begins thread deformation on those aluminum bolt holes. And yes, the beadlock thread is that low. The 100 fp/ 135 Nm is for the lug nut to brake flange mounting holes, not the bead rings.

If you are only running the beauty ring, then no big deal. Just getting the bolt out matters (replacing ugly stripped bolts, which are not inexpensive).

If you were eventually buying a set of real beadlock rings, and the threads are over-torqued , then you would want replacement wheels. The deformed bolts threads would never survive roadway vibration and the bolts would constantly come loose, or even fall out.

If it's just a matter of tight threads, then not a big deal. A 1/2 inch breaker bar (prefer an impact rated socket), a cheater bar (pipe), and a thick soled shoe should do the trick.
I would assume that the shop is going to be ignorant (or at least claim to be) regarding the torque specs of the rings. They might also refer to them as beadlocks and claim it's 'against their policy'.

If you're lucky and you're nice, they might fix the bolts for you. If the bolts need replacement, I'd expect he will be buying them, not the shop. Replacing the wheels will absolutely never happen.
 

MickeyT

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Been there. Done that. Only difference is I wish I could “blame” it on a shop, but we did it ourselves by not using anti-seize on each bolt when we swapped rings.

A local tire shop took pity on us and was able to free all of the bolts on three out of the five wheels.
Had to pay a 4x4 shop by the hour to free up the other two.
Lesson learned!
 

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T800

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Also just a reminder that the Ford service dept. would use this as a story of someone that 'voided their ENTIRE warranty'...

This is why 100% of maintenance and repairs should be done by the dealer! :wink:
 

MickeyT

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Also just a reminder that the Ford service dept. would use this as a story of someone that 'voided their ENTIRE warranty'...

This is why 100% of maintenance and repairs should be done by the dealer! :wink:
Are you saying that a seized bolt on a beauty ring will void the vehicle’s entire warranty? 🧐
 

T800

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Are you saying that a seized bolt on a beauty ring will void the vehicle’s entire warranty? 🧐
I'm joking. Though I don't doubt that someone at the service dept. would say that it will (even though it won't).

When my wife was buying a Prius, there was something they were offering that was over priced (alarm?). I told them that we would pass, will get it aftermarket later if we want it. Of course, the finance guy yelled with authority "YOU'RE GOING TO VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!"
My wife was concerned, I was angry and had a short argument with him.

This question comes up all the time in the form of: 'I told my salesperson that I was going to get a 2" lift and he said it will VOID MY WARRANTY! Is that correct??'
 
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MickeyT

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Gotcha! Gotta say, I’ve had to micromanage so many services performed due to oversights and errors at Ford that it makes me a bit nervous.
 

T800

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Gotcha! Gotta say, I’ve had to micromanage so many services performed due to oversights and errors at Ford that it makes me a bit nervous.
One thing I have heard: If you get your oil changes somewhere else, then your engine needs replacement under warranty, they can void it if you can't produce service records. This is why my wife gets hers done at a place that can print your service history (Valvoline).

Her Expedition needed cam phasers under warranty. Then later the trans needed replacement. For one of those, they requested service records since she didn't have oil changes done at the dealer.

Long story short, if you make a mod that affects a certain part, they will not warranty that part. So if you're Bronco came with 32" tires, and you put on 40", they're not going to warranty a steering failure. They can't deny an engine failure though.
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