Stereo help please!

[GoVikings!]

When I got my Bronco (3 years ago) there wasn’t all the cumulative stereo know-how that’s on this forum now (unfortunately for me).

I upgraded all my speakers to Rockford Fosgate as suggested by Crutchfield’s rep(R14 in the dash & pods, R1675 in the kick panels) and added a Kicker sub(46HS10). It was better….

After 3 years and reading multiple threads here, I thought I could do better. I got the got bigger Mabett pods (I went with the same Rockford Fosgate R1675 for continuity) and did the Forscan stuff. Nice to finally hear some sound from the rear. But I need to adjust the kicker sub for every single song!! Thank god the knob is at my fingertips.

Would a kicker key solve this?
It seems like everyone goes with one..

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[Brian_B]

An amp would be the next step. You either need an installer or comfortable running wiring up through the firewall to your battery (or, at least , in my opinion you should - some people have powered the 200.4 off pre-existing wiring, but I think that's a poor choice).

The Kicker Keys are very popular and have some plug and play support. They aren't the only choice you could make though. Many people install 2 amps - the Key 200.4 up front to support the main speakers, and the 500.1 that just drives the subwoofer and replaces the existing sub amp. You could choose to do one or the other, they don't have to both be done.

You can also do a 5-channel and have that amp capability all-in-one, but mounting it can be more challenging.

Most sub amps either come with, or support an optional - remote sub volume knob that you can install someplace.

Kind of depends on your budget, your comfort level doing the install, and what you think sounds good.

 

[1st 75th ranger]

When I got my Bronco (3 years ago) there wasn’t all the cumulative stereo know-how that’s on this forum now (unfortunately for me).

I upgraded all my speakers to Rockford Fosgate as suggested by Crutchfield’s rep(R14 in the dash & pods, R1675 in the kick panels) and added a Kicker sub(46HS10). It was better….

After 3 years and reading multiple threads here, I thought I could do better. I got the got bigger Mabett pods (I went with the same Rockford Fosgate R1675 for continuity) and did the Forscan stuff. Nice to finally hear some sound from the rear. But I need to adjust the kicker sub for every single song!! Thank god the knob is at my fingertips.

Would a kicker key solve this?
It seems like everyone goes with one..

i run co axle alpines deck pods kicker panels with mti tailgate sub kicker pro
i use a amp and processor and dont have to change sub sound ever unless i change genre

 

[GoVikings!]

An amp would be the next step. You either need an installer or comfortable running wiring up through the firewall to your battery (or, at least , in my opinion you should - some people have powered the 200.4 off pre-existing wiring, but I think that's a poor choice).

The Kicker Keys are very popular and have some plug and play support. They aren't the only choice you could make though. Many people install 2 amps - the Key 200.4 up front to support the main speakers, and the 500.1 that just drives the subwoofer and replaces the existing sub amp. You could choose to do one or the other, they don't have to both be done.

You can also do a 5-channel and have that amp capability all-in-one, but mounting it can be more challenging.

Most sub amps either come with, or support an optional - remote sub volume knob that you can install someplace.

Kind of depends on your budget, your comfort level doing the install, and what you think sounds good.

I have the remote sub volume knob; that is what I need to adjust for each song. Some songs seem to have no bass, and others are overpowering. It seems like something is wrong if I need to make constant adjustments.

Does the Kicker key 200.4 equalize/balance music in real time?

 

[GoVikings!]

i run co axle alpines deck pods kicker panels with mti tailgate sub kicker pro
i use a amp and processor and dont have to change sub sound ever unless i change genre

Maybe this is part of the problem. I usually have Spotify on shuffle, so the genre is pretty varied. I do the same in other places (using Sonos and other Bluetooth speakers) and don’t have the same issue

 

[GoVikings!]

If I had it to do over again, I would do the tailgate sub. The MTI wasn’t out there yet. What amp and processor are you using?

 

[Brian_B]

I have the remote sub volume knob; that is what I need to adjust for each song. Some songs seem to have no bass, and others are overpowering. It seems like something is wrong if I need to make constant adjustments.

Does the Kicker key 200.4 equalize/balance music in real time?

Hmm so you do already have a sub amp? Apart from the Sync EQ settings I don’t think there is a stock sub volume dial.

Part of what you are describing is resonance- the way the subwoofer reacts in the enclosure you have it installed in. Some sounds will really boom, then a couple of notes later a different tone will die completely off.

Subwoofers and their enclosures follow some pretty complicated math when it comes to how big the enclosure needs to be (internal volume) and if it has vent ports, how many, and what their size is. The stock enclosure was calculated for the stock speaker, but change the speaker and all that math is off, and you get spikey resonant response.

I had this when I first installed a Kicker 6.5. I mostly fixed it by sealing the enclosure — there is a port about the size of a baseball on the backside of the enclosure, and I capped it off with a plate and sealed it with RTV. That helped significantly.

An alternative would be to get an aftermarket enclosure or a different speaker.

 

[Area51BS]

Down load a RTA app and play some tones downloaded from Kicker from another device and you will see what’s wrong with that plastic box/speaker combo. Phone isn’t the best RTA, but good enough to play around with. Not sure if the Bronco system above base radio has any type of active tuning for lack of better word. It may change bass levels according to volume. I know the Bronco has auto volume based on speed.

 

[thenewjs]

I currently have the following in my B&O Braptor....

JL Audio C2's in the dash (center was removed and not replaced), kicks, and rears (upgraded to 6.5 with MTI PODs).

Mobridge AMP/DSP

JL JD1000/1

JL Audio 13TW5v2 in a MTI tailgate enclosure

All installed myself.

 

[1st 75th ranger]

If I had it to do over again, I would do the tailgate sub. The MTI wasn’t out there yet. What amp and processor are you using?

pac audio sound processor not sure of #

 

[GoVikings!]

Hmm so you do already have a sub amp? Apart from the Sync EQ settings I don’t think there is a stock sub volume dial.

Part of what you are describing is resonance- the way the subwoofer reacts in the enclosure you have it installed in. Some sounds will really boom, then a couple of notes later a different tone will die completely off.

Subwoofers and their enclosures follow some pretty complicated math when it comes to how big the enclosure needs to be (internal volume) and if it has vent ports, how many, and what their size is. The stock enclosure was calculated for the stock speaker, but change the speaker and all that math is off, and you get spikey resonant response.

I had this when I first installed a Kicker 6.5. I mostly fixed it by sealing the enclosure — there is a port about the size of a baseball on the backside of the enclosure, and I capped it off with a plate and sealed it with RTV. That helped significantly.

An alternative would be to get an aftermarket enclosure or a different speaker.

my sub setup is pretty basic: just a Kicker hideaway. With some songs It’s great, but others have nothing. I’m going to try the Kicker key 200.4. I hope it’s Mid bass that’s missing…

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