Two Winch wiring diagram

[jsoa]

Been mulling over this for a while and wanted to get any feedback on this wiring diagram that I came up with

I've read a few threads about various winch wiring to the rear and this is the bases of using 2/0 wire to the rear (cost isn't significantly higher) so higher the better is my thinking.

Also to answer some questions before hand
- I do not plan to run both winches at the same time (even though they will be powered on with one switch)
- The fuse (green icon) is 500a fuse
- Not sure what wire gauge the front will have, but probably 2awg since its a small distance

Let me know if you see any gaping issues with this diagram, thank you!

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[Brian_B]

Looks workable to me.

The hardest part will probably be getting a #2 and 2/0 lugs both on that (+) terminal of your solenoid switch - You may have to break that out so you don't break the post on the switch (and if you do, that may be a great place to put that 500A fuse as well)

Note - it's functionally equivalent to what you have, and to be honest, having the fuse on the hot side of the solenoid is better in theory (although the wire run is very short, so ... marginally). I only suggest this for the sake of making wiring those big wire lugs together easier and more manageable, rather than adding another terminal post or something.

Under the hood you'd be ok using all #2 everywhere - even though it does branch out to the larger 2/0 -- because the runs are all going to be very short there -- under 2' total, so your ampacity and voltage drop on those cables will be fine even going back to the rear winch.

12V BATT
(+)-----(-)   (+)--o--|[500]|---o------- #2
         | --- |                |
         | --- |                |------- 2/0
          -----
         Solenoid

 

[Valhalla]

I used these as rear cables.

Cut and modified.

 

[jsoa]

Looks workable to me.

The hardest part will probably be getting a #2 and 2/0 lugs both on that (+) terminal of your solenoid switch - You may have to break that out so you don't break the post on the switch (and if you do, that may be a great place to put that 500A fuse as well)

Note - it's functionally equivalent to what you have, and to be honest, having the fuse on the hot side of the solenoid is better in theory (although the wire run is very short, so ... marginally). I only suggest this for the sake of making wiring those big wire lugs together easier and more manageable, rather than adding another terminal post or something.

Under the hood you'd be ok using all #2 everywhere - even though it does branch out to the larger 2/0 -- because the runs are all going to be very short there -- under 2' total, so your ampacity and voltage drop on those cables will be fine even going back to the rear winch.

12V BATT
(+)-----(-)   (+)--o--|[500]|---o------- #2
         | --- |                |
         | --- |                |------- 2/0
          -----
         Solenoid

good stuff thanks for your insights. I was debating on running two fuses at one point, a combination of my diagram and yours. Probably overkill.

I didn't think of running a smaller wire size just in engine bay, but it make sense for the shorter wires and gives me options, (because when I start doing this I'm sure it's gonna be a hassle working with that large of wire)

Appreciate the info

 

[SierraBronco]

I'd throw a distribution block in after the fuse instead of stacking terminals. Add a second distribution block for the grounds and run a 1/0 or 2/0 ground from the winch back to the block. We discovered that all of the grounding for the entire vehicle is going through two 4G wires to the battery. Wasn't super stoked on that setup. To improve on the situation we ran both winches to the grounding distribution block then from the block back to the battery.

 

[Bschurr]

I like what you are doing and would suggest using a battery cut off switch that accommodates 2 leads so you can turn each winch on individually.

The use case may include either end of the vehicle submerged in water below the winch and energizing the circuit may preclude the use of the dry winch for recovery.

Something like THIS

 

[Q1svt]

… I am in the process of adding a winch too just one through

You didn’t mention $$ But I found Egis they supply marine and emergency vehicle modifiers/ companies

I am using a manual switch, but they offer a remote switch (and a dual switch) all rated @ 500amp

They all come with a 10mm post and deep enough to help connect your 2, 2/0 awg wiring…

Fords Warn winch is directly negative connected to battery, your two wiring should be able to connect to that bus … one on top of & one below. I would use 90* neg cable ends to help manage space.

Would be interested who’s 500 fuse you are using?

Egis for details
https://www.egismobile.com/xd-series

Egis change their small size sales to distributors
https://www.waytekwire.com/search?query=Egis

No need to add another bus.

 

[jsoa]

I like what you are doing and would suggest using a battery cut off switch that accommodates 2 leads so you can turn each winch on individually.

The use case may include either end of the vehicle submerged in water below the winch and energizing the circuit may preclude the use of the dry winch for recovery.

Something like THIS

I was hoping to not have to pop the hood to turn on the winches, is there a down side to using the aux switch as the cut off?

 

[SierraBronco]

… I am in the process of adding a winch too just one through

You didn’t mention $$ But I found Egis they supply marine and emergency vehicle modifiers/ companies

I am using a manual switch, but they offer a remote switch (and a dual switch) all rated @ 500amp

They all come with a 10mm post and deep enough to help connect your 2, 2/0 awg wiring…

Fords Warn winch is directly negative connected to battery, your two wiring should be able to connect to that bus … one on top of & one below. I would use 90* neg cable ends to help manage space.

Would be interested who’s 500 fuse you are using?

Egis for details
https://www.egismobile.com/xd-series

Egis change their small size sales to distributors
https://www.waytekwire.com/search?query=Egis

No need to add another bus.

I ran a class T fuse with a 20,000 AIC rating. https://shop.pkys.com/class-t-500?srsltid=AfmBOoqn_40PUUpIDUMiENy4S6Uj_SJ4cxV2XOXr7K0ZzsVhEKYlS7gn

 

[Brian_B]

I know a lot of people don't like stacking lugs at all.

In the industrial world, we are usually allowed to stack two, so long as the connector isn't overly crowded, the lugs are the proper size for the terminal, the lugs and terminal all make good contact / surface area, and you can keep at least two full threads visible on the terminal above the bolt when torqued with appropriate washers in place.

I don't always practice that though. I think the terminal for my ACC takeoff has like 4 wires stacked right now - but they are all low amp relay activation lines, so I'm not terribly worried about that. But the proper answer is to use a terminal block to split that off - I just haven't got around to cleaning up my wiring...

 

[Brian_B]

I was hoping to not have to pop the hood to turn on the winches, is there a down side to using the aux switch as the cut off?

Manual vs solenoid cutoff is really just about convenience. Exactly as you say - not having to pop the hood (although it's good practice to pop the hood when using a front winch... although not always easy to get at a under-hood mounted switch). I haven't found there to be a huge price difference between the two, and either could be susceptible to getting spot welded into place if abused.

 

[SierraBronco]

Manual vs solenoid cutoff is really just about convenience. Exactly as you say - not having to pop the hood (although it's good practice to pop the hood when using a front winch... although not always easy to get at a under-hood mounted switch). I haven't found there to be a huge price difference between the two, and either could be susceptible to getting spot welded into place if abused.

I started off with a selectable switch. Planned on simply turning it on at the trailhead in the event we needed it, which of course stopped happening. Then…we could’ve used the front winch this one time but I couldn’t quite get access to the switch in the engine compartment…

 

[Q1svt]

I started off with a selectable switch. Planned on simply turning it on at the trailhead in the event we needed it, which of course stopped happening. Then…we could’ve used the front winch this one time but I couldn’t quite get access to the switch in the engine compartment…

lol why like airplane pilots have check lists…

At that angle the wireless winch has gotten lose, slipped under the seats and is now against the tail gate…

Or the wireless winch remotes battery is dead and the spares are in that little cargo area where the jack is…

I don’t disagree but chit just happens and you can never out think or prepare for it.

 

[SierraBronco]

lol why like airplane pilots have check lists…

At that angle the wireless winch has gotten lose, slipped under the seats and is now against the tail gate…

Or the wireless winch remotes battery is dead and the spares are in that little cargo area where the jack is…

I don’t disagree but chit just happens and you can never out think or prepare for it.

The front is wired only! But on top of everything else you mentioned, a meteor could have also come down right on top of us. How do we prepare for that?!?!

 

[Q1svt]

lol, if you survived… use the fire to cook dinner.

You always need to, in general, be prepare but chit happens that you did not directly prepare for…

like then … you got home and are posting?

And there is no assurance that changing to a switched or manual one something else isn’t going to impact a person’s ability to use their winch … etc

I choose manual, my air compressor is also wired to that switch AND my tools to air up or down will be stored under the hood… So I am counting on driving off road where I don’t need to air down and chit happens and I … Ggf#%>€

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