UPR Plug Removal?

[vicorjh]

Careful with the UPR. On my second oil change I tried to unscrew the center piece to check for metal on the magnet. Well the magnet isn’t on the tip of that part, realizing after removing, but the main body that locks into place via the tabs. The inner blue part that unscrews also has a single o-ring on it. The outer body has 2 o-rings to seal to the pan. So 3 o-rings to watch for possible leaks…

So you must remove the whole plug to clean any metal off…

Yesterday I noticed oil under my rig, coming from where the inner piece (blue part) tightens down into the body. It was a very slow drip, but noticed it was trickling down my skids… Last night I removed my skid and loosened the blue piece and tightened, did this a few times, to hopefully reseat the o-ring and possibly work out any debri caught in the threads… Seems ok so far…

So I’m not sure if some dirt got in there or the o-ring is bad, but be careful with these… I don’t trust it given I changed the oil several weeks ago and just noticed the leak. I read on a few other forums about leaks like this, so it seems a little common with the UPR. I might be going back to the yellow plugs…

Also in the Ronin, I read of a lot of users cracking their pans trying to remove to clean the metal shavings. It doesn’t have metal tabs that bend like the UPR, to remove. Some said you have to push in on the Ronin to remove and then others said it’s not meant to remove?? Anyway, you can see the locking tabs are formed into the Ronin body and cannot be manipulated like UPR. Maybe this is the issue causing the cracks, people just cranking down o them trying to remove and cracking due to these tabs…

Anyway, something to think about…

The Ronin's are a bit fidgety. You do have to push in while rotating but you have to get the technique right. I had installed it, removed it, and then reinstalled. Took some fidgeting at first. Not much torque was needed thereafter. Having to crank on it indicates, to me, the technique of not quite right.

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[Chritaka]

Thanks for the tips. I plan on doing my first oil change with the UPR plug in May. Will post how it goes.

Did you end up buying a half inch hose to drain plug?

I had one already that I used. I still have to at least loosen my engine skids bolts so I can drop it slightly to get enough leverage to turn it. It’s tight.

And I just checked again after a 1 hr drive, still has an ever so slight slow drip..

 

[Chritaka]

The Ronin's are a bit fidgety. You do have to push in while rotating but you have to get the technique right. I had installed it, removed it, and then reinstalled. Took some fidgeting at first. Not much torque was needed thereafter. Having to crank on it indicates, to me, the technique of not quite right.

Thanks, I may try it and do like you mentioned. I don’t like having to need the extra part to keep track of, but it seems like it may be less troublesome in design than the UPR…

 

[telenerd]

I had one already that I used. I still have to at least loosen my engine skids bolts so I can drop it slightly to get enough leverage to turn it. It’s tight.

And I just checked again after a 1 hr drive, still has an ever so slight slow drip..

Hum I’d call UPR for a new one. I saw they changed their design a little.

 

[Chritaka]

Hum I’d call UPR for a new one. I saw they changed their design a little.

I called yesterday and their mailbox was full… However, I then sent an email describing the issue and received a response this morning. UPR will be sending me a new plug, and immediately emailed a replacement invoice once I replied and confirmed my address was the same. So I’m impressed with the customer service… They didn’t confirm a design update, but I bought mine 1 year ago this month. We’ll see…

And I ordered the Ronin just last night as I could get it delivered in 1 day! I’ll probably still try the Ronin, I should have it today, and keep the new UPR for backup.

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