Wire management tips/suggestions?

[swamp2]

I make a Junction Box for the Upfitter Switch Connections. It uses WAGO 20A lever connectors for switches 2-6 and a 30A for Switch 1. I mounted to an unused ground wire Rivnut (apparently used on Lux package unfortunately) so I'm working on a version that mounts using the 'racetrack' hole to the right. Still a bit in development but I've been using it for several months.

This looks extremely cool. You are 3D printing? The purpose is just to manage the factory upfitter "loose ends" and whatever you connect to them, correct? I'd purchase something like this (of course assuming that it used a material with appropriate temperature resistance and chemical resistance).

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[Dirtrider]

I used Wagos on the Engineered Off Road Systems Potable Water System. I read up in them significantly especially the vibration testing and it's thorough and convincing that they can take the abused and be reliable.

I just updated my design to mount over the small 'oval' racetrack slot between the ground wire rivnuts. Have to print one to verify it will fit but I'm optimistic

This looks extremely cool. You are 3D printing? The purpose is just to manage the factory upfitter "loose ends" and whatever you connect to them, correct? I'd purchase something like this (of course assuming that it used a material with appropriate temperature resistance and chemical resistance).

This looks extremely cool. You are 3D printing? The purpose is just to manage the factory upfitter "loose ends" and whatever you connect to them, correct? I'd purchase something like this (of course assuming that it used a material with appropriate temperature resistance and chemical resistance).

Yes, 3D printed from PETG which is more than adequa

This looks extremely cool. You are 3D printing? The purpose is just to manage the factory upfitter "loose ends" and whatever you connect to them, correct? I'd purchase something like this (of course assuming that it used a material with appropriate temperature resistance and chemical resistance).

I lost part of my reply earlier. It is designed to 'organize' your upfitter switch wires. My 'standard' package Black Diamond has two unused ground rivnuts in the flange and I used one for my mount. I've found out that some of the 'higher end' trim packages use that unused rivnut so I've redesigned it to use the 5/8"x7/8" slot between two of the ground rivnuts. I'm printing the first one of that now. I'm thinking about selling them (I'm retired and not set up for that) but have an agreement with a guy who is that I could transition over to. I'm thinking I could produce them for ~$40 plus shipping. Thoughts?

 

[swamp2]

Yes, 3D printed from PETG which is more than adequa

Looks to be good only to about 70 °C, which is not a huge margin for likely temperatures in that location. I would make an educated guess based on measuring some other underhood spots that location might get 60 °C or above. Now that said, it is also not a part under much stress at all.

I've got some relays mounted in that spot, so it might not fit for me (not implying you are going to sell these...), but interested.

 

[swamp2]

And back to the OPs original question.

Nothing beats trimming generic harnesses to the proper lengths for the cleanest routing. You can also then optimize the routing to your liking. Just invest in the the pins, connectors, a depinning tool and some adhesive lined heat shrink and most importantly the proper crimper. I've got a ton of mileage from this crimper+die set.

Light and harneses I have purchases from both Baja Designs and SPV have included generous amount of extra connectors and pins to do the job right as per above.

 

[Area51BS]

I like to pre run and tape wires together. Or use string to get length. Then a combination of Tesa tape, braided loom and heat shrink as shown in my power and speaker wire runs.

 

[Q1svt]

I currently have what looks like a rat's nest of wires in that area. This is mainly due to the wiring harnesses being longer than necessary, but I don't really want to cut and shorten them.

… find a better place to take up the extra length. Like for your bumper lighting the area just below the radiator…

If you add the friction tape as mentioned before, the wires look factory..

Companies like WayTek sell a large variety of cable ties.

For wiring that run over the ‘firewall’ or other places that have thin edges…

 

[Bad Frog]

I use a Brady M210 wire label maker with heat shrink labels and I spend the time to label every new wire I run near the terminal ends (to include my AUX switch wires with WeatherPack connectors). It makes it so much easier to wire things up at the onset and it allows me to "remember" what goes to what in the future...especially when you are trying to do a trail repair and time matters. Labeling wires with heat shrink labels is pretty common in the high end maritime industry, but you don't see it that frequently with automobiles. Now that car wiring complexity is reaching the same level as high value yachts, maybe that will change...or maybe not. I think it is well worth the price of the label maker and the various size heat shrink tubing rolls. YMMV.

 

[Dirtrider]

Looks to be good only to about 70 °C, which is not a huge margin for likely temperatures in that location. I would make an educated guess based on measuring some other underhood spots that location might get 60 °C or above. Now that said, it is also not a part under much stress at all.

I've got some relays mounted in that spot, so it might not fit for me (not implying you are going to sell these...), but interested.

Give me a chance to make sure the new design fits as intended and I'll make you one. I don't know if the Raptor has the same configuration in that area. If you are interested, send me a picture of the body flange where the ground wires are and I can maybe tell whether it will fit.

P.S. I have other materials available but PCTG has a Tg of 76C and prints well. I have some carbon fiber filled nylon which has a higher Tg but I don't have any real experience with it (and it is twice as expensive)

 

[Area51BS]

Might as well throw in my custom ABS firewall grommet. It’s two sided. Engine bay side has the wire bushing attached and the seal to firewall. Through bolted to inside piece.

 

[swamp2]

Give me a chance to make sure the new design fits as intended and I'll make you one. I don't know if the Raptor has the same configuration in that area. If you are interested, send me a picture of the body flange where the ground wires are and I can maybe tell whether it will fit.

P.S. I have other materials available but PCTG has a Tg of 76C and prints well. I have some carbon fiber filled nylon which has a higher Tg but I don't have any real experience with it (and it is twice as expensive)

Wow, thanks, that's super generous. Likely won't fit though. Which is a real bummer. I used the factory spot and added an extra hole & fastener.

I've mostly been printing resin and there are some impressive ones. I had a small business print a small print some nylon/carbon and it's impressive (on paper and IRL).

 

[Dirtrider]

Wow, thanks, that's super generous. Likely won't fit though. Which is a real bummer. I used the factory spot and added an extra hole & fastener.

I've mostly been printing resin and there are some impressive ones. I had a small business print a small print some nylon/carbon and it's impressive (on paper and IRL).

I think it will fit if there is nothing between the 7/8"x5/8" slot at the bottom of the picture and the rectangular hole below it just out of the picture. See the attached picture for placement. The only question is that the thin sheet metal on top of the main flange might be a little closer to the edge than mine is. Might take a slight amount of filing but there is some ability to move it around inside of the 7/8"x5/8" slot. The shoulder bolt is a little less than 3/8" diameter so there is some movement within the slot available. I've (hopefully) accounted for the bend up in the flange (second picture).

 

[swamp2]

. Fantastic reverse engineering there.

If beggars can be choosers, the Raptor amp order is 10, 15, 30, 10, 10, 10.

I'm happy to pay for this!

 

[Dirtrider]

. Fantastic reverse engineering there.

If beggars can be choosers, the Raptor amp order is 10, 15, 30, 10, 10, 10.

I'm happy to pay for this!

As I'm facing the plate, how are those ordered 6, 5, 4, 3, 3, 1?

 

[Dirtrider]

As I'm facing the plate, how are those ordered 6, 5, 4, 3, 3, 1?

Unfortunately, the 30 A WAGO only fits in the rightmost slot (currently labeled '1')I can change the amps on the rest of them but I'd have to re-lable the current '1' to 4. I'll generate a picture.

 

[Dirtrider]

. Fantastic reverse engineering there.

If beggars can be choosers, the Raptor amp order is 10, 15, 30, 10, 10, 10.

I'm happy to pay for this!

Picture of the order. Only the 1st slot is a 30A WAGO, the rest are 20A

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