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thompsdw

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I took the post from Tilzbow (thank you) and combined it with the 23 owners manual to make a document I can keep in my Wildtrak. I can update this if there are other tweaks that need to be made. Thought it would help everyone out.

PDF: Flat Tow Word Document/Checklist
Word Doc: Flat Tow Word Document/Checklist
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Skip

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Giving me a blank page?
 
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thompsdw

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Giving me a blank page?
Let me post a copy in PDF format. The first one is a word document so if you don't have word it won't pull up right. Let me know if this one doesn't work.
 

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Skip

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Perfect, thank you.
 

Skip

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I’ve got close to 12k towing my Bronco, on last leg of house hunting in Alabama. For some reason, one step I have had to repeat, is starting my Bronco, put it in 4h first, then follow all the steps. For some reason if it is in 2h already, it fails. The rest of your sheet is spot on for me. I will make a copy and laminate it. Thanks
 

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dgorsett

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Looks good. It is important to hold brake firmly, if I get limp ankled the shift might fail. It is important to shut ACC off as the last step when engaging Neutral Tow, if you don't the evil double honk will save you, but only if you took the FOB out of the Bronco. In the past I didn't always hear the shift, I have lately. And the "Neutral Tow Engaged " warning does not show every time I open the door even if it is engaged, don't know why, and if it does it's usually too fast to actually read.
 

Joe M

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I took the post from Tilzbow (thank you) and combined it with the 23 owners manual to make a document I can keep in my Wildtrak. I can update this if there are other tweaks that need to be made. Thought it would help everyone out.

PDF: Flat Tow Word Document/Checklist
Word Doc: Flat Tow Word Document/Checklist
That is a very cool checklist. I’m gonna print it and laminated it, I imagine it’s the same procedure on a 25 Raptor. Thank you.
 

Dirtrider

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I took the post from Tilzbow (thank you) and combined it with the 23 owners manual to make a document I can keep in my Wildtrak. I can update this if there are other tweaks that need to be made. Thought it would help everyone out.

PDF: Flat Tow Word Document/Checklist
Word Doc: Flat Tow Word Document/Checklist
I have a '22 with the manual transmission and have been using a printout from the original owners manual for the last two years and everything worked fine up through the middle of this year. However, we just returned from a trip that started a few weeks ago and ran into issues with getting into neutral tow mode. I was getting a message (using the '22 manual instructions) that all of the conditions were not met. I was a bit panicked since this actually showed up the second time stop/second time I tried to engage neutral tow. In the original manual instructions (that I've used successfully through this spring) you don't push in on the clutch and brake to engage neutral tow mode. Apparently there was a firmware change (this summer?) that requires both the clutch and brake to be depressed to satisfy the conditions for neutral tow to be engaged. The on-board manual actually reflects that change. Not necessarily relevant to your automatic neutral tow listing but just a thought that firmware changes might need to be checked periodically. I received no notice that there was a change to the neutral tow, just a wakeup call when it failed to work:)
 

Joe M

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What are you guys using for wiring to flat tow? The Curt one that Fordified1 suggested is a flat four pin and I think I need a six, so I can run a charge wire. Right turn, left turn, tail lights, charger and ground. What am I not understanding?
 

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dgorsett

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What are you guys using for wiring to flat tow? The Curt one that Fordified1 suggested is a flat four pin and I think I need a six, so I can run a charge wire. Right turn, left turn, tail lights, charger and ground. What am I not understanding?
I used the Curt kit to the taillights and added two wires up front to go to the battery charge and wired it into a six pin at the bumper. Slightly longer version: I use the RVI towed battery charge system which monitors input and output so I'm sure everything is good. It comes with a + and - wire to go to the six pin, with that and the Curt four wire it goes to my six pin at the Bronco bumper. Then a Curt 7 to six umbilical from the RV and I'm set.
 

Joe M

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I used the Curt kit to the taillights and added two wires up front to go to the battery charge and wired it into a six pin at the bumper. Slightly longer version: I use the RVI towed battery charge system which monitors input and output so I'm sure everything is good. It comes with a + and - wire to go to the six pin, with that and the Curt four wire it goes to my six pin at the Bronco bumper. Then a Curt 7 to six umbilical from the RV and I'm set.
I think I’m gonna order that same kit, was it much work to install it yourself?
 

dgorsett

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I think I’m gonna order that same kit, was it much work to install it yourself?
I mean, I do this stuff for perceived fun, but not bad. You have to run the 4 wire from front to rear. I ran mostly along drivers side frame rail in split loom. Then open up tailight trim which is a PITA. Then run + and- to bumper and mount up 6 pin plug and mount to bumper. Mine was done in fits and spurts since I "remodeled" it a few times, finding the combo above the best.
 

Joe M

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I mean, I do this stuff for perceived fun, but not bad. You have to run the 4 wire from front to rear. I ran mostly along drivers side frame rail in split loom. Then open up tailight trim which is a PITA. Then run + and- to bumper and mount up 6 pin plug and mount to bumper. Mine was done in fits and spurts since I "remodeled" it a few times, finding the combo above the best.
Thank you for the answer, you are my kind of guy (perceive fun) right. I have restored a lot of old cars and motorcycles for perceived fun, and then halfway through I‘m wondering why am I doing this! Anyway back to my Raptor, I have a lift in my shop so perhaps it won’t be such a PIHA, regardless now I know what to expect. Thank you
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