ICON Complete Coilover Suspension Systems (Stages 3 through 8)

[Dusty at ICON]

Dusty,

Can you confirm the non-SAS and SAS kits are the same kit and the different inch quotes is just related to the fact both vehicles will end up at same height but starting from different heights?

The coilovers are same length. It’s just the non-SAS Bronco that starts off lower.

Yes the components in the Sasquatch and Non-Sasquatch kits are exactly the same. They're just given different part numbers because of the difference in lift height they yield.

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[Inlinejohn]

Yes the components in the Sasquatch and Non-Sasquatch kits are exactly the same. They're just given different part numbers because of the difference in lift height they yield.

Thank you Dusty. I also had a great conversation with ICON the other day and was very helpful. We talked about future Overlanding setup and I am VERY excited for it’s release

……and he pretty much talked me into IIC

 

[jzweedyk]

Is there any advantage to going with the billet system over the tubular system other than looks?

 

[Dusty at ICON]

Is there any advantage to going with the billet system over the tubular system other than looks?

Forgive me for recycling my previous answer to a similar question in a different thread:

While the visual differences are obvious, the functional benefits of the billet parts get pretty granular, where *most* people probably wouldn't really take advantage of the differences. Basically the billet parts offer more and easier adjustability. On the UCA's, rather than a fixed-position bushing at the pivot end, the billet ones have individually adjustable spherical bearings for fine-tuning your alignment. For most, this might not be important because you can usually dial in your alignment reasonably well using the adjusters on the bottom control arms. Likewise the rear billet links also include on-vehicle adjustability, meaning you can make adjustments to the link-length without having to remove the links from the vehicle to thread the rod ends in and out. This can be handy for compensating for taller lifts and adjusting pinion angle. The billet rear lower links also include replaceable nylon rock sliders along the bottom surface.

Bottom line is you most likely don't even need most of those features unless you're doing something out of the ordinary. If you're sticking with any of our pre-configured kits and lift heights, the tubular ones should be just fine for you. Hope that information is helpful.

 

[Merc4x4]

Forgive me for recycling my previous answer to a similar question in a different thread:

While the visual differences are obvious, the functional benefits of the billet parts get pretty granular, where *most* people probably wouldn't really take advantage of the differences. Basically the billet parts offer more and easier adjustability. On the UCA's, rather than a fixed-position bushing at the pivot end, the billet ones have individually adjustable spherical bearings for fine-tuning your alignment. For most, this might not be important because you can usually dial in your alignment reasonably well using the adjusters on the bottom control arms. Likewise the rear billet links also include on-vehicle adjustability, meaning you can make adjustments to the link-length without having to remove the links from the vehicle to thread the rod ends in and out. This can be handy for compensating for taller lifts and adjusting pinion angle. The billet rear lower links also include replaceable nylon rock sliders along the bottom surface.

Bottom line is you most likely don't even need most of those features unless you're doing something out of the ordinary. If you're sticking with any of our pre-configured kits and lift heights, the tubular ones should be just fine for you. Hope that information is helpful.

Do you have a picture of how the rear remote resi line is attached to the tubular rear lower link?
A nice pro of the billet part is the integrated clamps for the remote resi line.

thanks. (I'm also trying to decide between tubular and billet)

 

[Dusty at ICON]

Do you have a picture of how the rear remote resi line is attached to the tubular rear lower link?
A nice pro of the billet part is the integrated clamps for the remote resi line.

thanks. (I'm also trying to decide between tubular and billet)

To run our remote res rear coilovers with our tubular lower links you have to use the specific billet tube clamp kit we sell for that specific applicaiton. It's sold separately because some will need a different kit that we offer for use with stock lower links (which are a different diameter). Here's a pic of the kit.

I don't have any photos handy of it installed but perhaps some of our customers can chime in with a pic or two.

 

[Merc4x4]

To run our remote res rear coilovers with our tubular lower links you have to use the specific billet tube clamp kit we sell for that specific applicaiton. It's sold separately because some will need a different kit that we offer for use with stock lower links (which are a different diameter). Here's a pic of the kit.

I don't have any photos handy of it installed but perhaps some of our customers can chime in with a pic or two.

thanks!

 

[Inlinejohn]

thanks!

Not ICON but not sure I understand the tub clamps?? Attach res to lower link?

@Dusty at ICON

 

[Dusty at ICON]

Not ICON but not sure I understand the tub clamps?? Attach res to lower link?

@Dusty at ICON

Our rear coilovers mount shaft up/body down, so the reservoir hose comes out the bottom, not the top. The hose is routed up the lower suspension link (with the tube clamps) and the reservoir is mounted along the frame rail.

 

[Inlinejohn]

Our rear coilovers mount shaft up/body down, so the reservoir hose comes out the bottom, not the top. The hose is routed up the lower suspension link (with the tube clamps) and the reservoir is mounted along the frame rail.

Ok…I def gotta see a pic and look forward to someone posting. Thanks Dusty

 

[Dusty at ICON]

Ok…I def gotta see a pic and look forward to someone posting. Thanks Dusty

Here are a couple of pics with the billet links. The hose is routed the same on the tubular links but using the clamp kit I posted above.

 

[Inlinejohn]

@Dusty at ICON

I’ve read thru this thread and searched the internet and still can’t find some answers.

1) SASQUATCH coilovers have built in bump stops.What does ICON stage 6,7,8 have?

2) If going 37s, what exact Up Travel Limiters do I need? Where are the located? How to install?

3) The spring interference issues in front were quite a read!!!! Now that we’re in February 2023, what bandaids are still required to make work on a Badlands non-SAS? How does the ICON new tie rod help this issue? I never fully understood the “moving lower joint aft”?!?! This didn’t move the 2 lower bolts of the Coilover did it? LCA skids depend on those bolts NOT moving.

 

[rtaylor]

@Dusty at ICON

I’ve read thru this thread and searched the internet and still can’t find some answers.

1) SASQUATCH coilovers have built in bump stops.What does ICON stage 6,7,8 have?

2) If going 37s, what exact Up Travel Limiters do I need? Where are the located? How to install?

3) The spring interference issues in front were quite a read!!!! Now that we’re in February 2023, what bandaids are still required to make work on a Badlands non-SAS? How does the ICON new tie rod help this issue? I never fully understood the “moving lower joint aft”?!?! This didn’t move the 2 lower bolts of the Coilover did it? LCA skids depend on those bolts NOT moving.

1) They have bump stops for up to 35" tires.
2) the additional bump stop spacers for 37" install on the shaft. They are semi-circular pieces with allen bolts so they can be installed without disassembling. They can even be installed after coilovers are mounted on the bronco.

3) Simply rotate the lower coilover mount 180-degrees so that the coilover is located rearward. The Icon or Hoss3 tie rod helps clearance in the sense that you don't need to use a tie rod sleeve. You may also need a swaybar spacer if the swaybar link hits the lower coil.

 

[Inlinejohn]

This isn't icon-specific, but worst contact for low speed is the probably the main body with wheels at full lock (photo with liner removed). For wheels straight there is more clearance, but it might contact the fender seam on a hard landing. But it is hard to compress the spring and pancake the rubber bump stop that far.

1) They have bump stops for up to 35" tires.
2) the additional bump stop spacers for 37" install on the shaft. They are semi-circular pieces with allen bolts so they can be installed without disassembling. They can even be installed after coilovers are mounted on the bronco.

3) Simply rotate the lower coilover mount 180-degrees so that the coilover is located rearward. The Icon or Hoss3 tie rod helps clearance in the sense that you don't need to use a tie rod sleeve. You may also need a swaybar spacer if the swaybar link hits the lower coil.

so when you rotate the coil reversing the mounting holes, the shock is now at a different angle slightly from original?

 

[huskerhiker]

I recall it mentioned, but haven't found it in this thread, that there is a conflict with the Rock Slide engineering step sliders and mounting the rear reservoir. Is there an issue there? If so, is there a solution?

Thx.

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