The Boreal Badlands

[vzqhsg]

There is a big project for the capable bumper in the works. Perhaps I’ll see if it a worthy of selling. Apart from developing a brand new product, I found some shop time while the NHL was on its ASG break. Think Light Mount

In the evenings I prepped the Relays and wiring harness for the LP9’s.

I’m really excited for the potential of this project. Of course, I might be reaching with my expectations. Only time will tell.

I finally got the @ORACLE Lighting Grill letters swapped on. Unfortunately the N was chipped (sharpied in the missing paint) and the primer wipes were bone dry. A few of the plastic weld holes needed to be opened up to avoid stressing the wiring or sticking over it… elongated if you will…. I threw a .25” endmill into the drill and relieved where necessary. Soldering in the letters to make their own harness, I melted a hot glue stick to get everything routed cleanly and oriented

Once the letters were in, I popped off the flares and removed the lower trim under the grill. It snapped out real easy with a panel tool. The LP9 Harness is ran within, the Deustch pigtails will pop out at the exact length and position to mate up with the lights! Custom and Clean install is always nice. I don’t have much to share on the harness photo wise, I was lost in the process.

Alongside the LP9 Prep, I finally wired in the SS3 and SS5 DRL’s. With the Oracles, I tied them into Aux 6.

They look even better at night

After hooking everything up I went home and noticed the Pass. Fog lamp was not working. “Its on the list for tomorrow”, I guess. All I can say is it’s good that I addressed it sooner rather than later. The insulation had rubbed down, the wire had corroded and the remains were smoking under use… shit

I cut out the bad, and soldered in some new. Secured both sides with some zip ties and called it a fix. Disaster avoided. #stancypants

One of the side projects was to turn some old snow gear clamps into something resembling a snow board carrier while using the Wilco Hitchgate that I utilized for the Foresters Full Sized Spare.

This week I need to pick up the hitch extension, fab up the mounting point for the snow gear carrier, and hopefully get the prototype light mounts back from powder to start testing!

So how much are the bronco lights?

Sponsored

 

[Boreal]

The Oracle Bronco lights look fantastic. You wired into Aux6 so you must remember to turn them in. Could that have been wired into existing parking lights?

you mentioned you’re not thrilled with any of the roof rack options. What are you hoping for? I’m considering the TrailRax half rack mainly to carry skis in the winter. In the summer might attach rotopax or other gear. Not a lot of extra weight. Have you looked at their racks?

are you happy with the oil catch can after all those miles? Is it worth the effort? I’m debating back & forth. Seems to be a very polarizing option.

thx! Awesome mod thread.

The Oracle lights could’ve been wired into the parking lights, but that’s not how I was wanting to wire it. My goal was to tie all amber/aux DRLs together on a single switched circuit.

The roof rack is a multifaceted gong show, nothing really suits the task. I often haul a canoe in the summer and I am wanting a low profile light setup to throw long… when not canoeing the roof is entirely off (I might devise a topless crossbar setup). So, the roof would need to be modular where the light bar and fairing sit low and disconnect from the main body of the rack. I think it’s just simpler to build some custom roof light brackets that integrate a canoe stability tie down and tuck the Baja S8 exactly where I want it. It’ll all be out of the way and leaves the roof alone to be removed with ease and lightness… Trailrax is up there on my list but doesn’t tick all the boxes to win my money.

The catch can is ok. It collects a ton of moisture in the winter, almost an alarming amount. I am not a fan of how tightly packaged it is near the ECU loom and some coolant lines, but I was able to fit in some hardware for the DIY drain… night and day difference on ease of emptying. As for the “do they work factor”, There is only potential upside to them - my old Subarus FA20 was NOT a happy camper at 200,000. It can only help with the oil/blow by it collects.

Looking good!!!

Another Purpose Built and Bad Ass 2dr door...

^ what he said..........and on 33's at that !!!!!

Thanks guys! 33’s are all I need for a daily in the prairies. Everything is Function > Form on this project… but I’m not skimping much, if at all on the form

So how much are the bronco lights?

I don’t have an exact set price yet. We are possibly starting the preproduction run of the “Street” and “Trail” tiers this week. We are hoping to have the most expensive option come in around $500CAD… doubling as a recovery point means that it has to be built with a certain stoutness

 

[Boreal]

Dropped the rig off for some warranty work on Thursday, they wrapped up what they could early Friday.

P061B/P2119 Codes - One off, most likely frozen IAF or throttle body.

U3001/U0401 Codes - forgot to address?

MIC Micro Fractures - started the process with Ford…

Passenger Front Panel MIC Seal Whistle - ordering new seals for driver and passenger panels to tackle during the May visit for the Trans TSB

MGV Cracking on Drivers Seat - most likely a wear item. In process with ford.

Driver Seat Fold&Slide Cable Not Retaining in Holder - they removed the seat, removed my zip ties and have reinstalled the cable. A cable/seat base replacement is up next if it happens again.


In addition to all the warranty work, I ordered some springs off the 4DR 2.7 Auto Tow setup; Referencing the Definitive Suspension cookbook.

The badlands non sas(special) 2DR MT Tow spring PNs weren’t listed in our cookbook, but the 4DR had to have a higher spring rate given extra cargo, vehicle weight, occupancy and the 2.7 Auto itself was a heavier setup. @Tricky Dick mentioned that he swapped in Sas springs on the Non-Sas shocks. I wasn’t looking for outright lift/ground clearance, taking a shock out of its standard working range isn’t something I want to necessarily do and preload wasn’t my goal either… But increasing the spring rate was, and with increased spring rate does come a minimal gain in ground clearance (about 1”). The springs I lined up seemed to tick all the boxes.

Front Original: MB3C-5310-APB
Front New: MB3Z-5310-C

Rear Original: MB3C-5534-ANC
Rear New: MB3Z-5560-C

With the winch on the nose, a few lights and shit up front… the spare tire utility rack on the back, and what future subwoofer and drawer system might come to be, I picked the heaviest spring that OEM offered. All of this was kept in mind but the main benefit is going to come when I am pulling the camper. 150lbs on the tongue makes the rear squat like a dog dragging ass on the carpet.

All in, $3000. Parts, labour, and an alignment. After hearing the pain of people not being able to get a DIY spring compressor in the coils, I simply opted for the dealer to do it.

First Impressions: Less dive under braking. Less pitch under acceleration. Less roll under hard cornering. I’m not a rock crawler, it may take more to articulate the suspension, but it handles and drives with more high speed on road manners - where I use it. The shocks somehow seem to be less harsh… perhaps shit needs to settle.

In two weeks is the next test on 200Kms of high and low speed, undulating, blind corner, bad camber rallyesque gravel roads. Can’t wait!

Edit: oh, and I have reaimed the headlights according to the book.

 

[Happytown]

Dropped the rig off for some warranty work on Thursday, they wrapped up what they could early Friday.

P061B/P2119 Codes - One off, most likely frozen IAF or throttle body.

U3001/U0401 Codes - forgot to address?

MIC Micro Fractures - started the process with Ford…

Passenger Front Panel MIC Seal Whistle - ordering new seals for driver and passenger panels to tackle during the May visit for the Trans TSB

MGV Cracking on Drivers Seat - most likely a wear item. In process with ford.

Driver Seat Fold&Slide Cable Not Retaining in Holder - they removed the seat, removed my zip ties and have reinstalled the cable. A cable/seat base replacement is up next if it happens again.


In addition to all the warranty work, I ordered some springs off the 4DR 2.7 Auto Tow setup; Referencing the Definitive Suspension cookbook.

The badlands non sas(special) 2DR MT Tow spring PNs weren’t listed in our cookbook, but the 4DR had to have a higher spring rate given extra cargo, vehicle weight, occupancy and the 2.7 Auto itself was a heavier setup. @Tricky Dick mentioned that he swapped in Sas springs on the Non-Sas shocks. I wasn’t looking for outright lift/ground clearance, taking a shock out of its standard working range isn’t something I want to necessarily do and preload wasn’t my goal either… But increasing the spring rate was, and with increased spring rate does come a minimal gain in ground clearance (about 1”). The springs I lined up seemed to tick all the boxes.

Front Original: MB3C-5310-APB
Front New: MB3Z-5310-C

Rear Original: MB3C-5534-ANC
Rear New: MB3Z-5560-C

With the winch on the nose, a few lights and shit up front… the spare tire utility rack on the back, and what future subwoofer and drawer system might come to be, I picked the heaviest spring that OEM offered. All of this was kept in mind but the main benefit is going to come when I am pulling the camper. 150lbs on the tongue makes the rear squat like a dog dragging ass on the carpet.

All in, $3000. Parts, labour, and an alignment. After hearing the pain of people not being able to get a DIY spring compressor in the coils, I simply opted for the dealer to do it.

First Impressions: Less dive under braking. Less pitch under acceleration. Less roll under hard cornering. I’m not a rock crawler, it may take more to articulate the suspension, but it handles and drives with more high speed on road manners - where I use it. The shocks somehow seem to be less harsh… perhaps shit needs to settle.

In two weeks is the next test on 200Kms of high and low speed, undulating, blind corner, bad camber rallyesque gravel roads. Can’t wait!

Edit: oh, and I have reaimed the headlights according to the book.

Awesome, great info, I came here from seeing you mention the different springs in the other guys post on RC Hidden Winch mount. I am looking to pick my nose up after adding IAG mount + winch. I definitely can feel the difference in handling (besides the obvious change in rake). Front is about 1 1/2 lower than the rear and just feels lees nimble, heavier steering input etc. I want to pick it up an inch in front then get an alignment. I saw you mention folks haven’t been able to get a DIY spring compressor in there. Like the one you can borrow from O’reilly’s/Autozone (long jackscrews , hooks onto two coils and pulls together, I used one before to change out springs on my truck)? If so, what, if any leveling option is there that is completely DIY’able? Are the upper/lower pucks DIY?

Friggin edit: I totally forgot to mention that according to your suspension cookbook I already have the stiffest spring (BL 4D 2.7 AUTO, Tow/No Tow same springs)

 

[emulous74]

Definitely let us know how things work out with the heavier spring rates once they've settled in.

 

[Boreal]

Well, not the weekend drive I was expecting. Got 3 hours out of town, cruising the greasy snow covered roads (2 hours from pavement/cell service). As I decelerate to make a hard left, I drop below 32km/h and the chimes begin… Absolutely nothing I can do about this one. The bronco is a block of ice and I have quite the drive to get back home. No need worrying about it. might as well enjoy the cabin weekend…

She managed to make it home in one piece without too much extra fuss

FF to now, Quick call with the dealer, it goes in on Wednesday.

The Chassis Control Module is showing codes

C103A:7A8B
C103A:7B8B

There isn’t even a google-fu on these. Guess it’s truly out of my hands. I hope she’s not a Lemon in the making, I love this build.

Perhaps Bulletin 23-2006 is the answer here - considering the Swaybar was a literal block of snow/ice - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10230772-0001.pdf

I recall reading these connectors popping off due to excessive pressure from snow/mud… let’s hope it’s as easy as that. Bad circuits or moisture intrusion. Hopefully there is no damage for driving 400kms of rough roads “over 32km/h” with the sway bar in a Disconnected fashion…

In other great news, spring is slowly migrating in with the birds:

 

[Boreal]

Got the Rig back from the dealer. C103A pointed them to TSB 23-2006. Connectors showed dry and corrosion free. Reprogrammed the CHCM and sent it on its way.

As far as the possibilities go, that was the least of the possible failure points on the TSB... now, was there any damage caused to the sway bar from highway speeds and rough road while faulted in the disconnected position? Only time will tell...

Pelicans are back. Luckily one of their main breeding/migration routes is a river that runs north from Winnipeg to Selkirk (where the dealer is) and its open in a few places! More signs of Spring

 

[Boreal]

The Bronco woke up with the C103A:7A8B and :7B8B faults again.

Not more than 100kms, the connector check and reprogramming has done nothing.

My purchased dealer can’t get me in for 3 weeks,
They want to do the TSB again, while not proactively ordering the lower harness and swaybar….

I guess a competing dealer is getting some warranty work next week… although I doubt I’ll be much ahead on the timeframe

 

[emulous74]

I’m so sorry man, you can’t seem to win. You are a great photographer and you can use my Bronco to continue taking your pics.

 

[Boreal]

I reached out to another dealer nearby work instead of home. They were able to slot me in for an appt, almost certain it was a broken wire.

Following the first dealers attempt with the TSB(un plug, plug in, reprogram) the faults came back within 20 hours. Then they mysteriously went away for a single day… ANNNNNND came right back on the third morning and refused to clear.

I dropped it off at the dealer near work. 16 hours of diag. They re-did the TSB work, checked all connectors, reprogrammed the CHCM, pinpoint tested the harnesses and we end up at the same spot. “No clue”. It’s curious that the codes don’t have any knowledge associated with them…

@Ducati1098 @flip Do you guys have any deeper insight to C103A, or sway bar faults?

Anyways, I had mentioned to everyone that it feels and appears to be symptomatic of a bad pressure sensor or solenoid… the dealer has agreed that it’s the bar itself and has ordered a FSD - MB3Z-5482-C. I’ve been quoted a 3.5 Week ETA, as it’s coming from the states…. Hopefully it’s quicker. Once it arrives and gets solved, I think it’ll be heading back to my original dealer for the 7MT/MT88 TSB. It’ll spend a week there getting rebuilt and a day at the body shop to replace the outer seals for the front roof panels…

Yay for warranty. Again, hopefully this isn’t indicative of a Lemon.

 

[Ducati1098]

I reached out to another dealer nearby work instead of home. They were able to slot me in for an appt, almost certain it was a broken wire.

Following the first dealers attempt with the TSB(un plug, plug in, reprogram) the faults came back within 20 hours. Then they mysteriously went away for a single day… ANNNNNND came right back on the third morning and refused to clear.

I dropped it off at the dealer near work. 16 hours of diag. They re-did the TSB work, checked all connectors, reprogrammed the CHCM, pinpoint tested the harnesses and we end up at the same spot. “No clue”. It’s curious that the codes don’t have any knowledge associated with them…

@Ducati1098 @flip Do you guys have any deeper insight to C103A, or sway bar faults?

Anyways, I had mentioned to everyone that it feels and appears to be symptomatic of a bad pressure sensor or solenoid… the dealer has agreed that it’s the bar itself and has ordered a FSD - MB3Z-5482-C. I’ve been quoted a 3.5 Week ETA, as it’s coming from the states…. Hopefully it’s quicker. Once it arrives and gets solved, I think it’ll be heading back to my original dealer for the 7MT/MT88 TSB. It’ll spend a week there getting rebuilt and a day at the body shop to replace the outer seals for the front roof panels…

Yay for warranty. Again, hopefully this isn’t indicative of a Lemon.

The Pinpoint test for both codes are pretty straightforward.

If there are no visible leaks from the stabilizer bar disconnect assembly, the only other possible causes are wiring, the stabilizer bar disconnect assembly itself, or the CHCM which is highly unlikely.

The first thing I would do is double check all the wiring and verify proper pin fit at the connectors. If all of that checks out, I would suspect a faulty stabilizer bar disconnect assembly.

 

[Boreal]

The Pinpoint test for both codes are pretty straightforward.

If there are no visible leaks from the stabilizer bar disconnect assembly, the only other possible causes are wiring, the stabilizer bar disconnect assembly itself, or the CHCM which is highly unlikely.

The first thing I would do is double check all the wiring and verify proper pin fit at the connectors. If all of that checks out, I would suspect a faulty stabilizer bar disconnect assembly.

That’s exactly what the techs have done. So that’s an A for Effort on their part!

But, that wasn’t what I was trying to ask. Let me reword it (thanks for chiming in @Ducati1098)

If we look up a P0420 for example, it’s almost certain to be an O2 or Cat issue and there is infinite data and details on that fault.

I had P061b/P2119 following a snowstorm and those lead me to infer that the airbox/Filter and throttle body were essentially frozen up, there is literature to backup the faults.

What I can’t find is ANY info on C103A. No Fault Name Charts/lists, no documentation. Nothin. It’s seems like an enigma of an error.

Even for the TSB 23-2006, it lists a few DTCs, but no further details are elaborated upon, at least publicly, to help diagnose the problem..

C103A(no clue), C1A99(Pressure sensor?), C1B03(Solenoid?), C1B07(solenoid?), C1B14(short circuit?) And/Or B1A67(no clue)

Is there some sort of DTC cheat sheet that floats around in the Tech world?

 

[Ducati1098]

That’s exactly what the techs have done. So that’s an A for Effort on their part!

But, that wasn’t what I was trying to ask. Let me reword it (thanks for chiming in @Ducati1098)

If we look up a P0420 for example, it’s almost certain to be an O2 or Cat issue and there is infinite data and details on that fault.

I had P061b/P2119 following a snowstorm and those lead me to infer that the airbox/Filter and throttle body were essentially frozen up, there is literature to backup the faults.

What I can’t find is ANY info on C103A. No Fault Name Charts/lists, no documentation. Nothin. It’s seems like an enigma of an error.

Even for the TSB 23-2006, it lists a few DTCs, but no further details are elaborated upon, at least publicly, to help diagnose the problem..

C103A(no clue), C1A99(Pressure sensor?), C1B03(Solenoid?), C1B07(solenoid?), C1B14(short circuit?) And/Or B1A67(no clue)

Is there some sort of DTC cheat sheet that floats around in the Tech world?

You have to remember that this is a whole new system for Ford. No other Ford vehicle has had a disconnecting sway bar setup.
So the information about it will be limited for a while if you don’t have access to the workshop manual. Not to mention, other than the TSB, these DTC’s are probably very uncommon to come across so far.

Whereas P0420, like you mentioned, and others are a generic code for every manufacturer.

Here are the definitions and overview of both DTC’s.

 

[flip]

If there are no visible leaks from the stabilizer bar disconnect assembly, the only other possible causes are wiring, the stabilizer bar disconnect assembly itself, or the CHCM which is highly unlikely.

The first thing I would do is double check all the wiring and verify proper pin fit at the connectors. If all of that checks out, I would suspect a faulty stabilizer bar disconnect assembly.

This. It's my assertion that pin fit/female socket tension is becoming more of an issue as terminals get smaller, parameters tighter and are at more risk of contamination/corrosion/oxidation. After you've verified a problem, the PPTs just keep you going in circles and hotline is not help, you just have to get the parts cannon out and try something. This, of course, is assuming the tech doing the diagnosis knows what they're doing. A lot of "techs" out there that just start throwing parts at stuff after they get 3 steps into a PPT and it's too much work to keep digging.

 

[Boreal]

It’s been 84 years since my last update, atleast it feels that way.

Twenty two days later I had the Badlands back in hand with a fresh Sway bar disco - MB3Z-5482-C. There have been no codes or issues since replacement (in the one week I’ve had to prove it out). Since then the doors and front panels have been off a handful of days, and a few paddling trips have taken place! It’s nice to be back in a rig thats good to venture. With hockey all wrapped up and migration having set in there is a ton more time to get out and find some wildlife!

Come to today, she was dropped back off for the MT88/7MT Synchro TSB. -D rings are being installed. At almost 50,000kms, I could see other damages having set in with floating metallics… the shop says two days to get it back. Fingers crossed the plastic retainer clip doesn’t break or gears 5/6 don’t need replacing as well.

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