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jaruss01

jaruss01

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Keep in mind, if the pivot point is another 1" further into the rim (which it probably is, after looking at ranger photos), all of my clearances #s from a turned wheel to the back crash bar increase by another 3/16"...
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Grooticus

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Honestly I don’t care. I’ve written them off as a loss. It’s not worth selling IMO. They will go in my attic as a back up for a couple years until I toss them. The MIC top is a greater loss if I go mod. This build is saving me almost 6k to not go sasquatched AMB OBX I honestly care little about recouping a couple hundred from the tires and dealing with ppl that flake on the sale. Ever sell something on FB marketplace? If the value isn’t high enough it’s all most not worth the time fielding questions and having ppl flake out on the pick up
Nothing like selling a car and being able to say “brand new tires”
 

Gr8Hortoni

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Keep in mind, if the pivot point is another 1" further into the rim (which it probably is, after looking at ranger photos), all of my clearances #s from a turned wheel to the back crash bar increase by another 3/16"...
Dammit. Sounds like a Level kit AND a set of wheel spacersare needed for my goal. That’s still not bad for a 34”x11” tire on an ALMOST stock vehicle, and not spending the extra 5k.
 
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I think I am going to just skirt by with 33.2/10.8" without modifying the crash bar or suspension - straight tire swap on an OBX rim. Although, you could easily modify it and go way bigger no problem...if you want to forego some safety purposes.
 
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Last post to round out this exercise:

Note that I'm showing the wheels as a perfect rectangle in the top down view. The reality is that the corners are slightly curved. So more cushion there as well. I think we should be able to comfortably fit 275/70r18s and 285/70r17s without modifying crash bars
 
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BroncoJay

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Dammit. Sounds like a Level kit AND a set of wheel spacersare needed for my goal. That’s still not bad for a 34”x11” tire on an ALMOST stock vehicle, and not spending the extra 5k.
Do u have a guess what a leveling kit would cost ?
 

5280Bronco

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Another thing to note is that im showing the wheels as a perfect rectangle in the top down view. The reality is that the corners are slightly curved. So more cushion there as well. I think we should be able to comfortably fit 275/70r18s and 285/70r17s without modifying crash bars
That's what I'm definitely hoping. Thanks for all of this work!
 

BroncoJay

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Another thing to note is that im showing the wheels as a perfect rectangle in the top down view. The reality is that the corners are slightly curved. So more cushion there as well. I think we should be able to comfortably fit 275/70r18s and 285/70r17s without modifying crash bars
Nice work
Really would save me a chunk of change on my 4 door BD build..
 
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That's what I'm definitely hoping. Thanks for all of this work!
No problem. Putting this work / thread to rest. My build is officially complete. AMB OBX, 33.2 tires on stock rims, steel bumper, roast interior, lux, MIC with rack, 2.7L auto with higher gearing. No sas, keep the painted flares for horizontal surface for blue pops along what will likely be black vertical side slabs. Going to looks sinister and save me almost 5k even after you factor in cost of tires and zero recouped from stock wheels if I decide to keep. Really happy with that outcome...and I get a 0.55 lift from the tires which puts me into Badlands ride height since my tires are bigger than BL tires but no lift, it’s about the same
 
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acetdeucy

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This is the difference from std Badlands to Badlands w/ Sasquatch? A 4mm lift?
kinda. The Badlands has a stiffer suspension package. That’s why it’s a bit taller.
 

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Gr8Hortoni

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I think I am going to just skirt by with 33.2/10.8" without modifying the crash bar or suspension - straight tire swap on an OBX rim. Although, you could easily modify it and go way bigger no problem...if you want to forego some safety purposes.
I think I might be ok with a level kit andwheel spacer without having to modify the crash bar. Hoping so anyways. Thank you again for putting the effort Into this. Very valuable info to work with.
 

broncosor

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I am repeating again: you will not find tire choice in this 275/70/18 size in C load range. You will only find E load range which are extremely stiff tires made for F250 trucks and higher. There are reports all over the web about people regretting putting E tires on their wrangler or 4Runner. There is even a guy who switched from 33in tires E load to 35” C load and he couldn’t believe how better the ride on road was.

Do not make this mistake. If you want bigger tire in C load range your best option is going with 17 wheels, then put 285/70/17 which offers a lot of tire choice in C load range. If you want to go with 35 tires the only option in C load is BFG KO2, but that’s a good tire so that’s ok.

Anyone buying an Outterbank and putting E load range tire in whatever size and uses this on road will severely regret it. Change the wheels for 17, then get 33 tires in C load, or get a Big Bend or Blackdiamond that come with 17 wheels.

It’s unfortunate to have no option in C load range for this size but that’s how it is.
 

srick76

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I guess the easiest way to go about it is finding a big bend or OBX and seeing how many fingers you could fit between the back of the stock tire and upper control arm/steering knuckle

thanks again
Yea man, I'm not a math guy..just tell me if a 33 will fit with no issues on stock big bend wheel lol
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