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BroncoNon

Big Bend
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The setup I currently run is the OEM clutch with the B&M short throw shifter & the Steeda 40% softer clutch pedal spring.

The factory 2.3L Bronco manual is comfort-biased. Ford prioritized smooth engagement, Noise/Vibration/Harshness suppression, and wide driver tolerance. It’s easy to drive, but torque headroom, heat tolerance, and feedback are limited.

OEM uses a dual-mass flywheel, organic clutch, and an isolated long-throw shifter. Engagement is forgiving and quiet, but the system masks input and doesn’t like repeated load or heat.

Switching to a South Bend Stage 2 Endurance single-mass clutch removes that damping. Throttle response sharpens, engine braking increases, rev-matching improves, and heat capacity goes way up. The trade-off is expected NVH—idle gear rattle and a narrower engagement window are normal.

The B&M short-throw shifter pairs correctly with the SMF (single mass flywheel). Shorter throws and firmer gates improve shift consistency under load. Slightly more vibration, but better control.

The Steeda softer clutch spring is the balance point. It improves modulation and reduces fatigue, making the setup livable for daily driving without reintroducing isolation.

Net result: more torque capacity, better heat resistance, and cleaner shifts. Less forgiveness and more drivetrain noise. Highway behavior is mostly unchanged.

Bottom line: fewer buffers, more control. If you want comfort, stay OEM. If you want durability and direct feedback, this setup does exactly that.







Ford Bronco OEM vs Upgraded Manual Drivetrain (B&M short throw shifter & Steeda softer clutch pedal spring) on 2.3L 7MT 584A5438-F33A-4091-8448-BDC96EFF200B
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aermtr

Badlands
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Very interesting and well written. I have the 2.3 with B&M and did the Rocky Gap Trail this weekend and had some left leg fatigue. The clutch seems relatively easy to modulate but if this is an improvement, count me in.

Ford Bronco OEM vs Upgraded Manual Drivetrain (B&M short throw shifter & Steeda softer clutch pedal spring) on 2.3L 7MT View recent photos
 

Kevin Scarbel

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The setup I currently run is the OEM clutch with the B&M short throw shifter & the Steeda 40% softer clutch pedal spring.

The factory 2.3L Bronco manual is comfort-biased. Ford prioritized smooth engagement, Noise/Vibration/Harshness suppression, and wide driver tolerance. It’s easy to drive, but torque headroom, heat tolerance, and feedback are limited.

OEM uses a dual-mass flywheel, organic clutch, and an isolated long-throw shifter. Engagement is forgiving and quiet, but the system masks input and doesn’t like repeated load or heat.

Switching to a South Bend Stage 2 Endurance single-mass clutch removes that damping. Throttle response sharpens, engine braking increases, rev-matching improves, and heat capacity goes way up. The trade-off is expected NVH—idle gear rattle and a narrower engagement window are normal.

The B&M short-throw shifter pairs correctly with the SMF (single mass flywheel). Shorter throws and firmer gates improve shift consistency under load. Slightly more vibration, but better control.

The Steeda softer clutch spring is the balance point. It improves modulation and reduces fatigue, making the setup livable for daily driving without reintroducing isolation.

Net result: more torque capacity, better heat resistance, and cleaner shifts. Less forgiveness and more drivetrain noise. Highway behavior is mostly unchanged.

Bottom line: fewer buffers, more control. If you want comfort, stay OEM. If you want durability and direct feedback, this setup does exactly that.







584A5438-F33A-4091-8448-BDC96EFF200B.webp
I run a South Bend clutch in my Dodge/Cummins 2500 with the NV4500HD. Good people there.
However, as Ford pegged it with the 7-speed, clutch and shifter, there's no need to spend additional money for any modification. Ford engineers got it right.
 

SierraBronco

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Once upon a time I had a manual cummins and the stock clutch couldn’t keep up with the engine mods. Put a South Bend in there and while I no longer had clutch issues, wifey absolutely hated driving the thing 😂 The “if you want comfort stick with OEM” is more true than many realize.

Great work!
 

Willub

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However, as Ford pegged it with the 7-speed, clutch and shifter, there's no need to spend additional money for any modification. Ford engineers got it right.
Yeah they sourced it out real good just like their other Getrag box’o’rocks MTs. Nailed it.
 

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Sitruc_btb

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I like the sound of that stage 2 set up, but I agree with Scarbel. Ford nailed it on the clutch set up. I love the pedal feel, the engagement, and the throw of the shifter. Quicker throttle response and rev matching would be nice. NVH not a bother. Mine purrs at me every cold morning.
 

Smocaine

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Is the included SMF lighter than stock? I have been seeking a kit with a heavier flywheel as some Jeep kits offer - looking for more tractor-type performance offroad and willing to accept a less performant experience on.
 

Hey Buddy

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Nice work & great write-up!
 

UncleBrad

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I like the sound of that stage 2 set up, but I agree with Scarbel. Ford nailed it on the clutch set up. I love the pedal feel, the engagement, and the throw of the shifter. Quicker throttle response and rev matching would be nice. NVH not a bother. Mine purrs at me every cold morning.
The Steeda spring, K&N intake, Flowmaster American Thunder axle-back exhaust and a ProCal 4 tune did it for me for performance and throttle response, and proper GP-4 synthetic oil took care of the box-of-rocks noise and shifting problems in the transmission. But good to know that I have a aftermarket clutch option if my Bronco has to work harder.
 

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CarmeloS

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Need to do the clutch it seems, I got the Steeda Spring and Boomba short shifter, happy with those, but eventually gonna do the @Panda Motorworks tune and gonna need more than stock can handle
 

Sitruc_btb

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The Steeda spring, K&N intake, Flowmaster American Thunder axle-back exhaust and a ProCal 4 tune did it for me for performance and throttle response, and proper GP-4 synthetic oil took care of the box-of-rocks noise and shifting problems in the transmission. But good to know that I have a aftermarket clutch option if my Bronco has to work harder.
What oil did you use in your transmission? I'm not familiar with gp-4. I've heard other guys using BG synchro mesh with good results. Ford using DCT fluid seems a bit interesting for a manual.
 

MilesTeg

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A 40% SOFTER clutch spring? My 24 7MT has a ridiculously light clutch already. Do other MYs have something stiffer?

Every time I switch from my 13 GT to the Bronco I almost smash the clutch pedal through the floor, hah
 

UncleBrad

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What oil did you use in your transmission? I'm not familiar with gp-4. I've heard other guys using BG synchro mesh with good results. Ford using DCT fluid seems a bit interesting for a manual.
I'm sorry - I meant "GL-4". I used Red Line 50604 MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 per a recommendation on a different forum thread a few months ago. It literally transformed the 7MT for me. Here's the link on Amazon. You'll need three quarts.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1VW32J?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4

There also has been discussion about what was put in these transmissions by the Chinese manufacturer, and whether the transmission is shipped with that oil. The difference was profound; moving to a better oil made as much difference in my transmission as the ProCal4 made a difference in my 2.3L four cylinderl!
 

UncleBrad

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A 40% SOFTER clutch spring? My 24 7MT has a ridiculously light clutch already. Do other MYs have something stiffer?

Every time I switch from my 13 GT to the Bronco I almost smash the clutch pedal through the floor, hah
The magic of the Steeda spring is not that the clutch spring is lighter, but that you can more easily feel the breakover; the clutch bite point
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