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23MY Sub-Delete - Controlling new amp/sub volume

TahoeDog

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I'm kitting out a subwoofer system amp/sub and have a question about controlling the volume. I'll use Forscan to enable the sub out. I believe the signal going to the sub wiring is line-out level. I'm trying to figure out if it can be volume controlled w/out having to run a volume control knob from the sub amp to a spot in the front somewhere.

Once the sub is enabled in Forscan, do you get any subwoofer level control from the Bronco head-end display in the dash that will do anything for the sub volume?

AMP: Kicker Key 500.1 for the amp.
SUB: Either the Kicker 48CWRT672 2 ohm 6.75" sub wired in series to make a 4 ohm load (Key500.1 @ 4 ohm = 150 Watts) or the Kicker 48CWRT8724 4 ohm 8" sub wired in parallel to make a 2 ohm load (Key500.1 @ 2 ohm = 300 Watts)

My sub preference is the 8" 4 ohm wired in parallel, as, from what I've read, this will be the better-sounding option for my taste. Plenty loud, but cleaner sounding than a 2 ohm sub in series.
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Johnny Mo

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I'm kitting out a subwoofer system amp/sub and have a question about controlling the volume. I'll use Forscan to enable the sub out. I believe the signal going to the sub wiring is line-out level. I'm trying to figure out if it can be volume controlled w/out having to run a volume control knob from the sub amp to a spot in the front somewhere.

Once the sub is enabled in Forscan, do you get any subwoofer level control from the Bronco head-end display in the dash that will do anything for the sub volume?

AMP: Kicker Key 500.1 for the amp.
SUB: Either the Kicker 48CWRT672 2 ohm 6.75" sub wired in series to make a 4 ohm load (Key500.1 @ 4 ohm = 150 Watts) or the Kicker 48CWRT8724 4 ohm 8" sub wired in parallel to make a 2 ohm load (Key500.1 @ 2 ohm = 300 Watts)

My sub preference is the 8" 4 ohm wired in parallel, as, from what I've read, this will be the better-sounding option for my taste. Plenty loud, but cleaner sounding than a 2 ohm sub in series.
If you have to run power and ground to the amp anyway - the Kicker volume control knob should take literally 10 minutes to run during that process. I ran mine down the pass side under the glovebox/footwell carpet and behind the center console to the drivers side. very easy and more than enough cable with it unless you require a right angle adapter - but then that's easily sourced on Amazon as well. I used the 8" dual voice coil 4ohm also. I was originally not going to do the volume knob - but the varinces in recordings I have over the years in my stored music and using itunes/amazon/spotify is enough to drive you crazy - so I'm glad I did.

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Brian_B

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Without the volume knob, the only ability you have to control subwoofer output is to manually adjust the setting on the amp - which will need access to the amp, or to adjust the Bass EQ setting in Sync - And that will kill all bass to everything in the system, not just the subwoofer.
 
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TahoeDog

TahoeDog

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@Johnny Mo @Brian_B Thanks for the help. Looks like I need to install the Kicker AMP Bass Level control knob and run the wiring. Seems an easy add for the added functionality. I have one in my boat and agree it makes life easy listening to all the different bass levels from my recordings. I'm just used to my other cars having a separate sub-level controller software slider...
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