+30 or +0 Offset?

[Palooza]

I own a non-Sasquatch bronco and have seen many people putting the oem Sasquatch takeoffs on the non-sas Broncos with no rub (after removing crash bars). I just purchased the RTR Tech 6 Bronco wheels in a 17x9 with a +0 offset. I chose the +0 offset because on the website it said +0 for Sasquatch and +30 for non-Sasquatch. However, the oem Sasquatch wheels are a +30 offset. What offset should I be going with here??? I want to be able to run these on a non-Sasquatch for a bit until I find a good deal on takeoff suspension.

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[HoosierDaddy]

(as I recall) Part of it has to do with the OEM wheel being 8.5" vs the RTR being 9".

There is a tire /wheel comparator at Tiresize.com that can work up a visual representation of the two wheel tire combos.

 

[Baja Bronco]

This could get as good as a “what oil do you use” thread. I run 0 offset, on my Raptor, and Bronco. Saying that however, I have aftermarket UCAs on both too, so the 0 offset works well. If you plan on getting some type of suspension, get UCAs too. As of now, you should be fine, not much poke with 0 offset, which I like.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Also,, the wheel offset will determine how much poke you will have. Typically , the 0 offsets have a bit more poke than the +30 etc etc , but as noted there are other variables to consider.

Method 17 x 8.5 +35 offset , 35 x 11.5 Toyos
Base , base suspension, no lift etc etc , standard flares

If I switched to the 0 offset, it would move the wheel/tire OUT 1.4" , IE, more wheel POKING out of the wheel well.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I had forgotten, when dealing with offset, everything is based off of the wheel centerline, so wheel width doesn't play a huge factor as much as tire width does.
This comparator doesn't even ask for the wheel's width, but it will show how the two different set ups will sit in relation to each other.

 

[F OR D]

+30 unless you are changing fenders or like to sling rocks and like a dirty bronco.

i have a non-sas bd with +30s and bil takeoffs. it's perfect.

 

[Palooza]

Also,, the wheel offset will determine how much poke you will have. Typically , the 0 offsets have a bit more poke than the +30 etc etc , but as noted there are other variables to consider.

Method 17 x 8.5 +35 offset , 35 x 11.5 Toyos
Base , base suspension, no lift etc etc , standard flares

If I switched to the 0 offset, it would move the wheel/tire OUT 1.4" , IE, more wheel POKING out of the wheel well.

1.4” more poke seems like too much in my opinion especially for stock flares. But doesn’t a +0 offset have less chance of rubbing on stock suspension than a +30 offset? And then on the other hand is a +0 offset putting to much strain on suspension components?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

1.4” more poke seems like too much in my opinion especially for stock flares.

But doesn’t a +0 offset have less chance of rubbing on stock suspension than a +30 offset?

And then on the other hand is a +0 offset putting to much strain on suspension components?

1. I agree, but it is very much a personal preference thing.

2. Actually, the 0 offset can increase the area covered by the tire as you turn it, so you MIGHT have a better chance of creating a rub using the 0 or neg offsets.

On the street, mine has no rub issues until I turn sharply AND hit a decent bump (compress the suspension). I wouldn't hardcore wheel it without a lift, but for most trail riding and daily driving, it is perfectly fine.

3. Possibly.
Lugs, no issue.
Ball joints, possibly , but definitely not an expert on that. At zero offset, I think that would be a long term issue or pushing the vehicle to the ragged edge while off roading...maybe. Probably break a lot of other shit before the various ball joints, etc take a hit.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

With my set up, the 35's nestled neatly against the tailgate support nubs as it supposed to.
They nudge the third brake light up a bit, but it fits, no major issues.

 

[Sandbergo]

I’ve been wondering the same but with adding the Eibach stage 2 coil overs and some UCA’s if I should go zero or +30 on the offset.

 

[F OR D]

Just so you know non -sas are +55 (flares are 3.5") and sas are +30 (flares are 5").

moving to a zero will add decent poke. going +30s added a slight, around 3/4" poke.

 

[JL8jeff]

I have 17x9 with -6 offset with 35x12.5x17 KM3's so mine poke a little more than you would get with the 0 offset (6mm = 1/4" roughly). You probably want the SAS flares with those wheels.

 

[Dover]

I have 17x9 with -6 offset with 35x12.5x17 KM3's so mine poke a little more than you would get with the 0 offset (6mm = 1/4" roughly). You probably want the SAS flares with those wheels.

Looks good. What wheels are those?

 

[JDoc92]

I’ve been wondering the same but with adding the Eibach stage 2 coil overs and some UCA’s if I should go zero or +30 on the offset.

Eibach’s with Zone UCAs on Everglades (Sasquatch size) rims. 35x12.5 KO2s.

 

[Sandbergo]

Eibach’s with Zone UCAs on Everglades (Sasquatch size) rims. 35x12.5 KO2s.

Thanks.

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