Alternator Upgrade

[zuke]

So I haven't gone deep into it yet, But I'm trying to figure out if I can upgrade the alternator in my Badlands 2.3 M/T.

Ford shows 2 Alternators for it, but no real specs on them;

MB3Z-10346-H For the 2.3l Without Power Inverter,

MB3Z-10346-A For the 2.3' With Power Inverter

I'm assuming the second is the more powerful alternator, Since the 400 Watt inverter could draw almost 40 Amps at full load. But the only spec I can find is 240A for the "Standard" alternator.

I think I'm hitting the edge (Or Exceeding) what my standard alternator can handle. I've had 2 Audio Amps, (a 300 watt 4ch and a 500 watt Monoblock) in the Bronco for a while, and just put in a Hoss 3.0 Steering Rack a couple weeks ago.

Now as soon as I start the Bronco it will go to 14.6v on the voltmeter almost immediately, and usually go up from there, Occasionally exceeding the 15.2v expected Top end. I got a "check charging system" message when it hit 15.3 on the way home from work today, But it cleared itself in a few minutes and dropped down to 14.6. Thus far the battery is holding about 12.4~6 Volts when the engine isn't running, so I don't think it's cooked, and I don't think the regulator is shot, or I'd get even crazier readings.

I'm going to check it over in depth tomorrow, Disconnect the Amps, and see if I can see anything in particular that seems to be making huge draws.

What I was hoping, though it's a small hope, is if anyone knows what the difference is between the two alternators, if they are interchangeable, and if the bus will even know how to handle the other alternator is it is better. I haven't heard of anyone trying to make this swap yet, so I won't be surprised if no one knows, But I have to ask!

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[Ground_zero298]

Following.

I know in my 2.7 I sometimes see it putting out 15 volts. That’s with a full charge and not much on. 15.1 is the max I’ve see. Never got a warning for it yet.

 

[Jdc]

I'm assuming the second is the more powerful alternator, Since the 400 Watt inverter could draw almost 40 Amps at full load. But the only spec I can find is 240A for the "Standard" alternator

Watts = volts *amps. 400watts/120v=3.33 amp. I'm not an electrical engineer but I did stay at a holiday inn last night.

 

[Ducati1098]

Watts = volts *amps. 400watts/120v=3.33 amp. I'm not an electrical engineer but I did stay at a holiday inn last night.

120v? You may want to stay at a different hotel.

 

[zuke]

120v? You may want to stay at a different hotel.

Well Technically he's right, The OUTPUT should max out at about 3.3 amps..

It's the 33.3 amp INPUT required (400watts/12v=33.33) That we have to consider as the drain on the electrical system.... And that assumes a 100% efficiency from the inverter, which it certainly isn't...

 

[Ducati1098]

Well Technically he's right, The OUTPUT should max out at about 3.3 amps..

It's the 33.3 amp INPUT required (400watts/12v=33.33) That we have to consider as the drain on the electrical system.... And that assumes a 100% efficiency from the inverter, which it certainly isn't...

So he’s not right. OP was clearly talking about the draw of the inverter. Not the output of it.

 

[HotdogThud]

Oh snap! Ford finally released the dual voltage alternator? 12v and 120v? Nice! No more inverters!

Think of how many light bars one could run on 120v!

 

[Ground_zero298]

Think of how many light bars one could run on 120v!

Hell yeah! Get me one of those Batman spotlights!

 

[zuke]

So I'm in the shop doing some testing, Of course right now it behaves..

I've got a stored P0562, Which Ford Says;

PCM P0562:00

System Voltage Low: No Sub Type Information

If voltage drops 1.5 volts or more below the generator voltage desired (calculated by the PCM ), this DTC sets after 30 seconds.

I ran the Checks the Motorcraft services suggests;


Visual Inspection and Pre-checks

• Inspect the FEAD system.
• Inspect for abnormal ignition-off current drain(s).
• Inspect the battery.
• Inspect the high current B+ CIRCUIT for loose or corroded connections.
• Verify B+ terminal high current BJB Fuse (275A) MEGA.

And everything looks good on those.

I've tried amps connected and disconnected, and it seems to make no real difference in the voltages, even with the audio cranked up to 24, which is the max I can stand to be in the shop with it (And, yes it's perfectly clear at that volume, I got kinda carried away on the sound system..).

I observed the Voltage while working the Hoss 3.0 Rack and holding at maximums, and did see the Battery Voltage increase from 14.6 to as high as 14.8 (Multimeter at the battery, not the guage) Since I didn't make any measurements with the Hoss 2.0 rack, I don't know how that compares to it.

I have the inverter, so I have the "upgrade" alternator already (I'm assuming), but I still haven't figured out what is different about it...

 

[Jdc]

120v? You may want to stay at a different hotel.

The output voltage is 120v.... The hotel is ok

 

[Ducati1098]

The output voltage is 120v.... The hotel is ok

Don’t see the relevance of the inverter output in this post, But okay lol

 

[Jdc]

Don’t see the relevance of the inverter output in this post, But okay lol

Reading comprehension can be difficult

 

[Ground_zero298]

Is it staying that high all the time? Every start up?

 

[Ducati1098]

Reading comprehension can be difficult

So is math apparently but whatever you say bud

 

[zuke]

OK, Found the alternator Specs in the FSM;



General Specifications

Item	Specification
2.3L EcoBoost (199kW/270PS) - 210 amps
Rating	210 amps
Generator amps at 80.6°F (27°C)	130 amps at 750 rpm (min) to 220 amps at 2,500 rpm (max)
Generator pulley ratio	2.6:1
Generator pulley replaceable	Yes
Generator pulley type	Overrunning Alternator Decoupler (OAD)
Voltage regulator type	Electronic internal with generator
2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/342PS) - 210 amps
Rating	210 amps
Generator amps at 80.6°F (27°C)	85 amps at 580 rpm (min) to 220 amps at 2,300 rpm (max)
Generator pulley ratio	2.7:1
Generator pulley replaceable	No
Generator pulley type	Solid
Voltage regulator type	Electronic internal with generator
2.3L EcoBoost (199kW/270PS) - 250 amps
Rating	250 amps
Generator amps at 80.6°F (27°C)	145 amps at 750 rpm (min) to 250 amps at 2,500 rpm (max)
Generator pulley ratio	2.6:1
Generator pulley replaceable	Yes
Generator pulley type	Overrunning Alternator Decoupler (OAD)
Voltage regulator type	Electronic internal with generator
2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/342PS) - 250 amps
Rating	250 amps
Generator amps at 80.6°F (27°C)	95 amps at 580 rpm (min) to 250 amps at 2,300 rpm (max)
Generator pulley ratio	2.7:1
Generator pulley replaceable	No
Generator pulley type	Solid
Voltage regulator type	Electronic internal with generator
3.0L EcoBoost (299kW/406PS) - 250 amps
Rating	250 amps
Generator amps at 80.6°F (27°C)	110 amps at 625 rpm (min) to 250 amps at 2,500 rpm (max)
Generator pulley ratio	2.67:1
Generator pulley replaceable	Yes
Generator pulley type	One way clutch (OWC)
Voltage regulator type	Electronic internal with generator

So the upgraded Alternator I've got is 250A (145 at Idle) vs 210A (130 at Idle) for the "regular" alternator...

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