amp power cable routing

[brkdncr]

Is there a recommended routing of the power cable to get to the subwoofer area? I'm planning to route 4ga there. Any rubber grommets i should order?

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[Brian_B]

There's a firewall grommet already placed for you up under the drivers side steering wheel. It's a bit of a pain to pull through, but possible. I got #4 through it along with a handful of other wires. Fish tape and a bit of lube does wonders.

Hardest part of it is just cutting a slit in the existing grommet without damaging a factory wire bundle that's already routed through it. If you have an automatic, you can use the grommet that would normally be used by the clutch plunger that sits right next to it - I think that one is big enough for #4. An X-Acto knife was the easiest way I found to get the holes cut - it's a double-walled grommet (or two grommets back to back, not sure) so you have to get it cut on both sides.

From there, I went through the dash to the passenger side (a few zip ties here and there to keep it tucked), then under the carpet on the passenger side. Normally you'd run wire through the door sills, but #4 is a bit big to fit in there with the other wires. I did pull both the passenger sides seats for this and had the carpet part way up to run it easily.

I popped up by the rear bolt for the rear seat, and from there it was just an easy jog to get to where the subwoofer is in the rear left cargo panel, and it just feeds right into the side of the panel there. Had to kind of bend/form the wire around the rear seat leg there so it would fold up and down properly, but the little carpet spring cover hides it all once you re-install that.

No cutting the carpet or drilling any holes or extra grommets needed.

 

[SROC3]

There's a firewall grommet already placed for you up under the drivers side steering wheel. It's a bit of a pain to pull through, but possible. I got #4 through it along with a handful of other wires. Fish tape and a bit of lube does wonders.

Hardest part of it is just cutting a slit in the existing grommet without damaging a factory wire bundle that's already routed through it. If you have an automatic, you can use the grommet that would normally be used by the clutch plunger that sits right next to it - I think that one is big enough for #4. An X-Acto knife was the easiest way I found to get the holes cut - it's a double-walled grommet (or two grommets back to back, not sure) so you have to get it cut on both sides.

From there, I went through the dash to the passenger side (a few zip ties here and there to keep it tucked), then under the carpet on the passenger side. Normally you'd run wire through the door sills, but #4 is a bit big to fit in there with the other wires. I did pull both the passenger sides seats for this and had the carpet part way up to run it easily.

I popped up by the rear bolt for the rear seat, and from there it was just an easy jog to get to where the subwoofer is in the rear left cargo panel, and it just feeds right into the side of the panel there. Had to kind of bend/form the wire around the rear seat leg there so it would fold up and down properly, but the little carpet spring cover hides it all once you re-install that.

No cutting the carpet or drilling any holes or extra grommets needed.

THIS. 100% what I did and I JUST finished my installation today. It's a lot simpler than you think and just watch some interior panel removal videos on YT. Gives you more confidence when you rip them off your ride

I already had a Kicker key 200.1 and added: JL Audio 500.1 amp, LC2i Pro Line-Out Converter and Kicker TRTP10 10 inch enclosure. My wiring harness arrived late and as fate would have it - I decided to fill the time by applying KILMAT (way cheaper and thicker than Dynamat) to the trunk....then it became the doors....lol. I HIGHLY recommend this btw. It makes a noticeable difference in reducing road noise and making the music just sound better overall.

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