Anyone have picture of the B&O sub harness?

[JL724]

Anyone have pictures of the stock harness that plugs into the sub? Not the one that plugs into the factory B&O amp?

Sounds Good Stereo has an adapter for Ford trucks with B&O systems that plugs into the sub harness and then has RCA outputs to plug directly into an aftermarket amp. They just need to verify which harness comes on the bronco.

This would let you add an aftermarket amp / sub without any splicing and no need for something like a LC2i. Just run power from the battery to the back of the truck and use the ground in the truck and everything else is plug and play.

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...y-subwoofer-connection-harness-oval-subwoofer

Sponsored

 

[Ksjrb03]

This is the correct harness for the B&O. It’s a DVC need two. That being said, really don’t need to convert to RCA. I used a kicker key 500.1. Wire the existing sub wires in as high level inputs. It will also trigger the remote power on with them as high levels. 8 gauge to the battery and ground is right there at the sub. No need for any LOC or adapters. Amp is total plug and play from the existing sub.

Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WTEVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TQ23YK9C827PRTGEGG3Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[JL724]

Thanks, I like the idea of having something that plugs right in and is easily reversible. So there are two of those harnesses that plug into the B&O sub? Is that picture from a B&O system?

 

[Ksjrb03]

Yes it is the B&O sub.

Have you torn it apart yet? It really makes no sense to use these for what your trying to do. The wires are sealed into a rubber grommet into the sub enclosure. You would be adding the harness, then drill new holes to get the wires back out to the amp. Now you have dangling harness rattling around in the sub enclosure for no reason.

Trust me you don't need these, can't use these if your going to use the existing sub wires as an amp input.

 

[JL724]

I haven't opened it up yet. Couldn't you unplug them from the factory sub, remove the factory sub and then connect the new harness to the factory harness and run the RCAs out to the trunk where the new amp will be mounted along with the new sub enclosure?

 

[Ksjrb03]

I haven't opened it up yet. Couldn't you unplug them from the factory sub, remove the factory sub and then connect the new harness to the factory harness and run the RCAs out to the trunk where the new amp will be mounted along with the new sub enclosure?

Not without drilling holes in the factory sub enclosure. That’s what I’m saying, the wires are sealed into the enclosure. You can’t get them out. If you did drill holes now your harness is in the enclosure rattling around.

why do you want RCA inputs? That requires a line output converter. Low level inputs can’t be used to trigger the amp on, so you will need to find a trigger circuit. So much easier to just use the sub speaker wires as a high input, bypass a line converter and trigger wire.

 

[JL724]

I guess I need to open it up. I would have thought if you unscrew the sub from the enclosure, the harnesses that plugged into the sub would be exposed and then you can just connect the new harness and run the rca's right out of the open hole where the sub was?

Using that harness lets you plug right into an amp like this one that has the line output converter built in and I was told you don't need a trigger, the harness / rcas will turn the amp on. So beside running a power cable to the trunk, everything else plugs right in and no splicing any factory wires.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/lc-1800/

 

[goalie]

The wires going into the enclosure are in a rubber grommet. I cut the wires that were in there (couldnt pull them out). I then drilled 2 holes for my 8 gauge wires into the rubber and fed them thru. Worked great, tight seal on the cables. I didnt reuse any of the existing harnesses.

 

[Ksjrb03]

I guess I need to open it up. I would have thought if you unscrew the sub from the enclosure, the harnesses that plugged into the sub would be exposed and then you can just connect the new harness and run the rca's right out of the open hole where the sub was?

Using that harness lets you plug right into an amp like this one that has the line output converter built in and I was told you don't need a trigger, the harness / rcas will turn the amp on. So beside running a power cable to the trunk, everything else plugs right in and no splicing any factory wires.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/lc-1800/

Ok, let me ask you this. Are you going to reuse the factory sub enclosure, or are you adding a new sub box. My answers to you have been assuming your reusing the existing enclosure.

So you are using an amp/LOC combo unit. This will work, but cost twice as much as a Kicker key amp that you can feed the existing sub speaker wires straight to.

 

[JL724]

Yea, I think that is the confusion. I am not reusing the factory enclosure. There will be a new custom enclosure in the trunk. That way when I decide to sell the truck, I can unplug the new harness, hook back up the factory sub and it's back to stock (minus the power cable going to the trunk).

$530 for the harness / amp isn't bad. Figure another $500-750 for a sub/custom enclosure and then install. I am sure there are cheaper options, but my goal was to keep this as clean as possible for easy removal.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Yea, I think that is the confusion. I am not reusing the factory enclosure. There will be a new custom enclosure in the trunk. That way when I decide to sell the truck, I can unplug the new harness, hook back up the factory sub and it's back to stock (minus the power cable going to the trunk).

Then yes, that harness link I gave you is what you need, and you can feed your wires out of the sub cavity to the amp. Be aware the polarity on that harness is reversed for the Bronco.

 

[BigJ2]

This is all good info. As for the side panel where the sub resides, does it just pop off, without anything to unscrew?

 

[Ksjrb03]

This is all good info. As for the side panel where the sub resides, does it just pop off, without anything to unscrew?

Yes it pops off, but is kinda a PITA and your very likely to break some clips. This thread has tons of good info on the B&O sub/amp, fighting rattles, and fixing broken panel clips

B&O sub installed on Base Bronco ….sorta…. | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

 

[BigJ2]

Yes it pops off, but is kinda a PITA and your very likely to break some clips. This thread has tons of good info on the B&O sub/amp, fighting rattles, and fixing broken panel clips

B&O sub installed on Base Bronco ….sorta…. | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

Awesome, thank you!!

 

[Ksjrb03]

Awesome, thank you!!

Here’s the service manual for the panels, shows clip locations. Highly suggest panel removal tools, especially for the orange one piece clips.

Sponsored