Anyone install a JL Audio 8" W1v3 Sub into the B&O enclosure?

[Alpine9999]

JL c2-400x in dash, and focal acx in rear pods, I have raptor so can’t use Mabett pods because of rear crossbar so had to stay with 4” in rear pods. Was really hoping I could get the w3 to work in the b&o sun enclosure , but that doesn’t look like it’s going to work

Did you install an amp on these or using B&O amp? How do they perform? I'm ready to start ordering for my upgrade.

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[fyremn76]

Did you install an amp on these or using B&O amp? How do they perform? I'm ready to start ordering for my upgrade.

I have not installed the amp yet, I’m going to start with just the kicker key 500.1 mono for the subwoofer when I put it in. So far I have just replaced the 4” in dash and rear pods, and it has made a big difference. Will do the kicke

I can confirm that the full size Kicker Comp R (48CWR84) fits in the OEM enclosure. However, as noted above, the Kicker sub likely failed due to inability to vent properly.

did you get the jl w1 put in yet, if so how is it compared to the kicker you had?

 

[thewedge]

Will the W3 work if a spacer is used? How much clearance between the front of the speaker and the cover panel grille is there?

 

[Silence]

not sure. seems it would require over.5" of clearance from current plus whatever clearance to the panel.

 

[STING555]

I have not installed the amp yet, I’m going to start with just the kicker key 500.1 mono for the subwoofer when I put it in. So far I have just replaced the 4” in dash and rear pods, and it has made a big difference. Will do the kicke

did you get the jl w1 put in yet, if so how is it compared to the kicker you had?

I haven’t had a chance to install the W1 yet. My rig has been in the shop for warranty repairs (rear diff). I should be getting it back by Monday and will be able to swap out the Sub.

 

[Ibuprofen3293]

The JL W1 is a single voice coil vs the Kicker which is a dual voice coil. So, the JL will run at 4ohm whereas the Kicker was running at 2ohm wired in parallel. My amp will send 150w @ 4ohm vs 300w @ 4ohm. I’m interested to see what the JL will sound like with it running on 150w vs 300w with the Kicker.

The Kicker has vents on the back of the magnet. I think that the sub over heated because there was not enough depth to allow it to vent properly. The JL W1 does not have the venting holes in the magnet, so it should be better suited in the enclosure.

Does this mean the 8" Kicker RT also vents from the magnet? Any risk in that one over heating if the enclosure is filled with polyfill? I was going to add fill because that enclosure is so light/hollow/small. My plan is to install the RT (bought from the classifieds here) with a Key 500.1 (from plugnplay kits) in the next couple of weeks.

Edit: I know you gave me some feedback on another thread recently on this same topic--just wanted to say thanks!

 

[STING555]

Does this mean the 8" Kicker RT also vents from the magnet? Any risk in that one over heating if the enclosure is filled with polyfill? I was going to add fill because that enclosure is so light/hollow/small. My plan is to install the RT (bought from the classifieds here) with a Key 500.1 (from plugnplay kits) in the next couple of weeks.

Edit: I know you gave me some feedback on another thread recently on this same topic--just wanted to say thanks!

The Kicker RT vents through the magnet (see pic below from Crutchfield), but the mounting depth is only 2.7” so it should be fine with or without poly fill.

 

[thewedge]

I ordered the usual kicker … I do believe the w3 will fit with a half inch spacer. Problem is woukd require a different amp to make use of the more capable 4ohm load. I didn’t feel like dolling out $1k for the JL Audio DSP amp so resorted to the Kicker. Will see how it goes but yea, the W3 will work with minimal work I believe.

 

[STING555]

I finished installing the W1. It sounds great.

Come to find out, my Kicker Key 500.1 stopped working along with the Comp R sub. I ended up having to replace both the amp and the sub.

I put in a new Key 500.1 and the JL W1 and it sounds even better than the Comp R did.

I did have to trim the rubber around the outside of the JL sub in order to get it to fit. Once I did that, it slid right in.

I thought that the JL W1 running 150w @ 4ohm might not be as loud as the Comp R running 300w @ 2 ohm, but I was wrong. The JL is plenty loud and sounds cleaner than the Kicker.

Highly recommended setup.

 

[Wolfeman]

I finished installing the W1. It sounds great.

Come to find out, my Kicker Key 500.1 stopped working along with the Comp R sub. I ended up having to replace both the amp and the sub.

I put in a new Key 500.1 and the JL W1 and it sounds even better than the Comp R did.

I did have to trim the rubber around the outside of the JL sub in order to get it to fit. Once I did that, it slid right in.

I thought that the JL W1 running 150w @ 4ohm might not be as loud as the Comp R running 300w @ 2 ohm, but I was wrong. The JL is plenty loud and sounds cleaner than the Kicker.

Highly recommended setup.

Any pictures of the finished product?

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