AUX wiring suggestions and example ARB compressor installation

[rtaylor]

To make it easier to add accessories over time and to allow switches to be reordered easily, I added waterproof connectors to Ford’s dangling aux wires. I chose the Deutsch DT 2-pin connectors that are commonly used in offroad lighting. A ground is added to each connector for ease of use. They can be labeled with a sharpie or cable tag. Tesa 51608 tape is awesome for wrapping wires.

Deutsch DT connectors are easy to assemble if you buy a $25 barrel crimper and use solid barrel terminals. The DT connectors are good up to 13 Amps, or the larger DTP connectors can do 25A. The only other tools needed are wire stripper and needle-nose pliers. Be sure to buy only the solid barrel crimp terminals.

TE is the name-brand connector, or you can buy cheaper versions. I like to use the TE version for 16-20AWG and the JRready brand for 16AWG wires (JRready works with a wider range of AWG only if you use their very expensive crimper). The Bronco AUX wires are 16AWG (AUX1-2) and 18AWG (AUX3-6). The TE connectors are cheaper on ebay. You can also buy pre-assembled cables that are handy.

Unused connectors should have a sealed dust cap. You can make one from a connector and plastic “dummy pins” to seal the wire holes. With some banana plugs you can make a connector for your voltmeter to easily test your wiring.

If you also want accessory (non-aux-switch) power, you can order the extra terminal to access the existing outfitter fuse. Ford DU2Z-14474-JA. Cheapest to buy on ebay, since dealer will probably make you buy a pack of 5. Add terminal to BCM connector on fuse panel under dash and route through designated grommet on firewall (explained in Bronco Equipment Installation Guide and Trailer Tow Install manual). While I was at it, I also added DT connectors at the interior fuse box for accessory power and also one for an aux switch (from under-hood aux wire to control interior accessory).

Example parts and tools:

Tesa tape
DT barrel terminal crimper
2-pin DT connector (TE 16-20AWG solid barrel terminal)
2-pin DT connector (JRready 16AWG solid barrel terminal)
DT dummy plugs (for unused connectors)
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable

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[rtaylor]

Here is an example of creating a modular wiring harness for ARB compressor and pod lights to take advantage of the AUX DT connectors.

I used the KR Off-road bracket with dual ARB and 813fabrication switch bracket. The harness was assembled using the ARB power cable, Deutsch DT waterproof connectors, some pre-built DT cables from amazon, battery lug crimp terminals, and Tesa 51608 tape.

A sharpie can label the connectors so it is easy to reorder the aux switches later.

The ARB power cable does not come with battery terminal lugs, but it is the correct length. I crimped both red and both black wires together using 8AWG lugs. I soldered after crimping to prevent corrosion, since the wires were bare copper. You'll need flange nuts and a M8 bolt for the negative terminal. Be sure to pre-bend the positive wires to fit inside the battery cover.

Final result

Additional parts/tools for harness:
KR Off-road bracket
813fabrication bracket (I used the passenger-side version)
Battery lug crimper
Battery lugs
Battery flange nuts (you will also need M8 bolt for negative terminal)

 

[Snappy22]

Awesome! Great tips, thanks! (And bookmarked!)

 

[UtahBrandon]

This could be a really dumb question as I'm asking just based on memory of what's under the hood, but why a 2 wire plug? What's the source and destination of the black ground wire? For example, I would expect that the compressor would have its own ground cable that's intended to ground to an existing body mount? If you rerouted that to the 2-plug, are you just collecting all 2-plug grounds into a single body mount terminal?

Wouldn't a single wire plug also work, while using the out-of-the-box ARB ground cable just grounded to a body mount?

 

[Roger123]

This could be a really dumb question as I'm asking just based on memory of what's under the hood, but why a 2 wire plug? What's the source and destination of the black ground wire? For example, I would expect that the compressor would have its own ground cable that's intended to ground to an existing body mount? If you rerouted that to the 2-plug, are you just collecting all 2-plug grounds into a single body mount terminal?

Wouldn't a single wire plug also work, while using the out-of-the-box ARB ground cable just grounded to a body mount?

My question as well, did you just run all the blacks to a common chassis ground point?

Super nice job, VERY well done!!

 

[rtaylor]

My question as well, did you just run all the blacks to a common chassis ground point?

Sorry, I should have mentioned the grounds. I connected all of the ground wires to a common point, so each 2-wire connector carries power and ground. That makes it easy to add lights or other things. I used a 8-10AWG main wire, crimped to the 16-18AWG black ground wires to each connector.

This is the convention for power/ground pin location:

Wouldn't a single wire plug also work, while using the out-of-the-box ARB ground cable just grounded to a body mount?

Correct. The ARB relay doesn't need the ground (and I didn't actually connect it at the compressor) because it is grounded by the small black wire at the battery terminal. However, to make them all the same, I added ground on each AUX connector.

 

[Roger123]

Very nice, you did a great job, definitely going to be doing this soon! I was going to put bullet connectors on them all but this is very clean, love it. Did you put all 6 grounds together?

 

[rtaylor]

Very nice, you did a great job, definitely going to be doing this soon! I was going to put bullet connectors on them all but this is very clean, love it. Did you put all 6 grounds together?

Thanks. I used a large crimp coupler to join all 6 wires to a single thick wire that I connected to the body lug. I used heat shrink tubing and wrapped with cloth tape. Sorry I don't have a photo.

 

[UtahBrandon]

Awesome @rtaylor . Thank you for the clarification. I'm looking on Amazon for similar 1-pin connectors, but they seem to all be really crappy quality. Any recommendations on 1-pin connectors that won't break the bank?

 

[rtaylor]

Awesome @rtaylor . Thank you for the clarification. I'm looking on Amazon for similar 1-pin connectors, but they seem to all be really crappy quality. Any recommendations on 1-pin connectors that won't break the bank?

Sorry, I don't know. The 1-pin Deutsch DTHD connectors are expensive and probably wouldn't work well with the AUX wires. The "stamped" pins on the cheap single-pin connectors are a lot harder to install.

Update: one other thought. You could use the 2-pin connector, but install a plastic dummy pin in the unused slot. I did that for an interior accessory so I didn't have to run an extra ground through the firewall.

 

[brnc_o_vrlndr]

To make it easier to add accessories over time and to allow switches to be reordered easily, I added waterproof connectors to Ford’s dangling aux wires. I chose the Deutsch DT 2-pin connectors that are commonly used in offroad lighting. A ground is added to each connector for ease of use. They can be labeled with a sharpie or cable tag. Tesa 51608 tape is awesome for wrapping wires.

Deutsch DT connectors are easy to assemble if you buy a $25 barrel crimper and use solid barrel terminals. The DT connectors are good up to 13 Amps, or the larger DTP connectors can do 25A. The only other tools needed are wire stripper and needle-nose pliers. Be sure to buy only the solid barrel crimp terminals.

TE is the name-brand connector, or you can buy cheaper versions. I like to use the TE version for 16-20AWG and the JRready brand for 16AWG wires (JRready works with a wider range of AWG only if you use their very expensive crimper). The Bronco AUX wires are 16AWG (AUX1-2) and 18AWG (AUX3-6). The TE connectors are cheaper on ebay. You can also buy pre-assembled cables that are handy.

Unused connectors should have a sealed dust cap. You can make one from a connector and plastic “dummy pins” to seal the wire holes. With some banana plugs you can make a connector for your voltmeter to easily test your wiring.

If you also want accessory (non-aux-switch) power, you can order the extra terminal to access the existing outfitter fuse. Ford DU2Z-14474-JA. Cheapest to buy on ebay, since dealer will probably make you buy a pack of 5. Add terminal to BCM connector on fuse panel under dash and route through designated grommet on firewall (explained in Bronco Equipment Installation Guide and Trailer Tow Install manual). While I was at it, I also added DT connectors at the interior fuse box for accessory power and also one for an aux switch (from under-hood aux wire to control interior accessory).

Example parts and tools:

Tesa tape
DT barrel terminal crimper
2-pin DT connector (TE 16-20AWG solid barrel terminal)
2-pin DT connector (JRready 16AWG solid barrel terminal)
DT dummy plugs (for unused connectors)
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable

Did you have an issue inserting the DU2Z-14474-JA terminal into the BCM connector? Either it does not fit, or I am not getting the orientation correct.

Thanks!

 

[chtucker]

I found right angle battery connections- I needed 2 gauge for the winch, but they have 4 as well
Fastronix 90 Degree Tinned Copper Lugs 3/8" 2 Gauge 2 Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCBJ...t_i_D1ARTQX6EQ5DHE6YP0FW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know what size the 2 wires are from ARB, but it was a much cleaner install than when I tried bending the stock Warn battery lugs.

Also- the battery Aux connection bus under the positive connector is 6mm 1.0 pitch in case you want to use the stud that doesn't have a nut.

 

[Flourman]

Awesome stuff!! I love 12V wiring and have worked myself into making it more and more professional looking (rather than a garage hack) over the years. I LOVE the Tesa tape. Really makes wiring look factory.

The connectors are a great idea.

 

[rtaylor]

Did you have an issue inserting the DU2Z-14474-JA terminal into the BCM connector? Either it does not fit, or I am not getting the orientation correct.

I think the problem is the little metal tab. If I remember right, I had to cut it off or bend flat so it would fit. For the orientation, I compared to the existing terminals.

I found right angle battery connections- I needed 2 gauge for the winch, but they have 4 as well
Fastronix 90 Degree Tinned Copper Lugs 3/8" 2 Gauge 2 Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCBJ...t_i_D1ARTQX6EQ5DHE6YP0FW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I agree that 90-degree lugs are required for the winch, but I didn't need them for the ARB and RSE ring terminals, since the wire was flexible enough. I used Ancor 262265 90 Degree #2 5/16.

Another tip is to notch out the 90-degree lug with bench grinder or file to fit the bronco positive terminal before crimping it onto the winch cable. Be sure to re-tin with solder so no exposed copper. Also use tight shrink tubing to seal cable to lug.

 

[brnc_o_vrlndr]

I think the problem is the little metal tab. If I remember right, I had to cut it off or bend flat so it would fit. For the orientation, I compared to the existing terminals.

Thank you. I’m glad to hear that you also had to modify. I found that flattening the tab caused no resistance to popping back out and the little retaining tabs in the connector are a different shape than the divots in the terminal. A little tweaking of the tab and reshaping of the retainer and I’m set. My last concern is whether or not I am getting full engagement of the terminal. I have power, so I will go with that. Thanks again.

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