AUX wiring suggestions and example ARB compressor installation

[Giordiesel]

To make it easier to add accessories over time and to allow switches to be reordered easily, I added waterproof connectors to Ford’s dangling aux wires. I chose the Deutsch DT 2-pin connectors that are commonly used in offroad lighting. A ground is added to each connector for ease of use. They can be labeled with a sharpie or cable tag. Tesa 51608 tape is awesome for wrapping wires.

Deutsch DT connectors are easy to assemble if you buy a $25 barrel crimper and use solid barrel terminals. The DT connectors are good up to 13 Amps, or the larger DTP connectors can do 25A. The only other tools needed are wire stripper and needle-nose pliers. Be sure to buy only the solid barrel crimp terminals.

TE is the name-brand connector, or you can buy cheaper versions. I like to use the TE version for 16-20AWG and the JRready brand for 16AWG wires (JRready works with a wider range of AWG only if you use their very expensive crimper). The Bronco AUX wires are 16AWG (AUX1-2) and 18AWG (AUX3-6). The TE connectors are cheaper on ebay. You can also buy pre-assembled cables that are handy.

Unused connectors should have a sealed dust cap. You can make one from a connector and plastic “dummy pins” to seal the wire holes. With some banana plugs you can make a connector for your voltmeter to easily test your wiring.

If you also want accessory (non-aux-switch) power, you can order the extra terminal to access the existing outfitter fuse. Ford DU2Z-14474-JA. Cheapest to buy on ebay, since dealer will probably make you buy a pack of 5. Add terminal to BCM connector on fuse panel under dash and route through designated grommet on firewall (explained in Bronco Equipment Installation Guide and Trailer Tow Install manual). While I was at it, I also added DT connectors at the interior fuse box for accessory power and also one for an aux switch (from under-hood aux wire to control interior accessory).

Example parts and tools:

Tesa tape
DT barrel terminal crimper
2-pin DT connector (TE 16-20AWG solid barrel terminal)
2-pin DT connector (JRready 16AWG solid barrel terminal)
DT dummy plugs (for unused connectors)
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable

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[Giordiesel]

You used the Deutsch DT 2-pin connectors for power and ground to each connector for ease of use? did you tie all the 6 grounds together?

 

[rtaylor]

You used the Deutsch DT 2-pin connectors for power and ground to each connector for ease of use? did you tie all the 6 grounds together?

Yes, I tied the grounds to common point. See link.

common ground point

 

[Giordiesel]

Yes, I tied the grounds to common point. See link.

common ground point

great job, looks nice and neat, thanks

 

[DRC]

To make it easier to add accessories over time and to allow switches to be reordered easily, I added waterproof connectors to Ford’s dangling aux wires. I chose the Deutsch DT 2-pin connectors that are commonly used in offroad lighting. A ground is added to each connector for ease of use. They can be labeled with a sharpie or cable tag. Tesa 51608 tape is awesome for wrapping wires.

Deutsch DT connectors are easy to assemble if you buy a $25 barrel crimper and use solid barrel terminals. The DT connectors are good up to 13 Amps, or the larger DTP connectors can do 25A. The only other tools needed are wire stripper and needle-nose pliers. Be sure to buy only the solid barrel crimp terminals.

TE is the name-brand connector, or you can buy cheaper versions. I like to use the TE version for 16-20AWG and the JRready brand for 16AWG wires (JRready works with a wider range of AWG only if you use their very expensive crimper). The Bronco AUX wires are 16AWG (AUX1-2) and 18AWG (AUX3-6). The TE connectors are cheaper on ebay. You can also buy pre-assembled cables that are handy.

Unused connectors should have a sealed dust cap. You can make one from a connector and plastic “dummy pins” to seal the wire holes. With some banana plugs you can make a connector for your voltmeter to easily test your wiring.

If you also want accessory (non-aux-switch) power, you can order the extra terminal to access the existing outfitter fuse. Ford DU2Z-14474-JA. Cheapest to buy on ebay, since dealer will probably make you buy a pack of 5. Add terminal to BCM connector on fuse panel under dash and route through designated grommet on firewall (explained in Bronco Equipment Installation Guide and Trailer Tow Install manual). While I was at it, I also added DT connectors at the interior fuse box for accessory power and also one for an aux switch (from under-hood aux wire to control interior accessory).

Example parts and tools:

Tesa tape
DT barrel terminal crimper
2-pin DT connector (TE 16-20AWG solid barrel terminal)
2-pin DT connector (JRready 16AWG solid barrel terminal)
DT dummy plugs (for unused connectors)
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable
Pre-built cable

Do you have or seen some pictures and detailed instructions to install the DU2Z-14474-JA or DU2Z-14474-DA terminal kit into the BCM Connector 3.
The Bronco Equipment Installation Guide ONLY says "BMC Connector 3 has a black plastic cover that will need to be temporarily removed to install the terminal kit(s)."
I don't want to break the connector or cover.

 

[rtaylor]

Do you have or seen some pictures and detailed instructions to install the DU2Z-14474-JA or DU2Z-14474-DA terminal kit into the BCM Connector 3.
The Bronco Equipment Installation Guide ONLY says "BMC Connector 3 has a black plastic cover that will need to be temporarily removed to install the terminal kit(s)."
I don't want to break the connector or cover.

No pictures, but if I remember correctly, there was a small black cable tie on the wires/cover that needs to be clipped (and replaced when reassembling).
Also, I think there was a small metal tab on the new terminal that need to be clipped in order to insert it in the connector (perhaps described earlier in the thread).

 

[DRC]

No pictures, but if I remember correctly, there was a small black cable tie on the wires/cover that needs to be clipped (and replaced when reassembling).
Also, I think there was a small metal tab on the new terminal that need to be clipped in order to insert it in the connector (perhaps described earlier in the thread).

Good to know and you still have to disconnect the #3 connecter from the BCM (Fuse Box) or do you leave it connected. How do you disconnect the connector from the BCM (Fuse Box)?
I really appreciate your help.

 

[rtaylor]

Good to know and you still have to disconnect the #3 connecter from the BCM (Fuse Box) or do you leave it connected. How do you disconnect the connector from the BCM (Fuse Box)?
I really appreciate your help.

I don't remember the details, but I think there was a lever on the connector to push it out of the fuse box. You will add the extra terminal(s) in the connector after it is pulled out and shell pulled back or removed. The fuse box itself already has the fuses and connector pins.

 

[DRC]

I don't remember the details, but I think there was a lever on the connector to push it out of the fuse box. You will add the extra terminal(s) in the connector after it is pulled out and shell pulled back or removed. The fuse box itself already has the fuses and connector pins.

Thanks, will be doing the terminal kit this week.

 

[evgenyvasenev]

Probably a noob question, but why do you use AUX and the ARB button for a compressor? I thought it needs one of those, no?

 

[rtaylor]

Probably a noob question, but why do you use AUX and the ARB button for a compressor? I thought it needs one of those, no?

Correct. You only need to use DLY_ACC+ARB switch, or AUX. You can use AUX+ARB if you want to (both switches would need to be turned on). Whichever you choose, be careful not to drain the battery by using compressor with engine off.

 

[evgenyvasenev]

Correct. You only need to use DLY_ACC+ARB switch, or AUX. You can use AUX+ARB if you want to (both switches would need to be turned on and engine running). If using DLY_ACC (or direct battery connect), be careful not to drain battery by using compressor with engine off.

Thanks! So if I connect it to the AUX it will not turn on without the engine on? But with the button it will. Correct? I wanted to use the button as it's closer to the compressor.

 

[rtaylor]

Thanks! So if I connect it to the AUX it will not turn on without the engine on? But with the button it will. Correct? I wanted to use the button as it's closer to the compressor.

Sorry, I was thinking of another truck. The Bronco AUX switches are based on delayed-accessory power also and don't need the engine to be running (just accessory power on).

 

[evgenyvasenev]

Sorry, I was thinking of another truck. The Bronco AUX switches are based on delayed-accessory power also and don't need the engine to be running (just accessory power on).

Thanks, so both options are equal, right?

 

[rtaylor]

Thanks, so both options are equal, right?

Yes, just depends on where you want to control it.

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