B&O Speakers Upgraded in 2022 Bronco

[Ibuprofen3293]

I’ve seen others modify the enclosure. I chose to go with the kicker that I knew from others experiences would fit without modifying the enclosure. The problem I had with that was that the raised sections are hollow, so it’s not as simple as just removing the raised sections (there are three raised hollow sections on the enclosure that would need to be modified)

So the Comp R fits the B&O enclosure without much modification? I thought everyone was using the Comp RT because it’s so much shallower. I’m looking to upgrade my sub with a key 500.1 and kicker 8”, but I’m a bit confused between the R and RT and the 2 and 4 ohm versions. Thanks for all the info in this thread.

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[STING555]

So the Comp R fits the B&O enclosure without much modification? I thought everyone was using the Comp RT because it’s so much shallower. I’m looking to upgrade my sub with a key 500.1 and kicker 8”, but I’m a bit confused between the R and RT and the 2 and 4 ohm versions. Thanks for all the info in this thread.

The Comp R will fit. However, my Comp R failed a few weeks after installing it. I think it failed because it was pressed up against the rear of the enclosure and was unable to vent. The shallow mount version might work out better.

I’ve decided to replace with a JL Audio W1, but haven’t swapped it out yet.

 

[gaaangs]

I finished installing the sub today. The Bronco is put back together and the audio project is complete.

The sub was a lot of work to install, especially with all of the sound deadening, but I’m glad I did all of it. The kicker sub in the oem enclosure sounds good and provides real bass that was missing. The system sounds really good now. I can turn up to max volume 30 with no clipping or distortion. It’s gets really loud. The hertz speakers sound full and clear.

I also love the the bass knob. It’s crucial for fine tuning.

How do you turn it up to 30???

I replaced all my speakers with Kicker KS, added the Kicker Key and a 6 inch sub and if I get to level 17 I feel like my ears are going to bleed. I'm scared to go past 20 - feel like my speakers are going to explode lol

 

[STING555]

UPDATE

After running this setup for a few weeks, the Comp R sub and Key 500.1 both stopped working. At first, I thought it was just the sub. I installed a new sub (JL W1) and still no sound. Come to find out, the amp also stopped working.

I replaced the 500.1 with a new one and now I’m back in business.

The new JL W1 sub sounds great. I’d highly recommend the JL W1 to anyone considering it. I prefer the sound of the JL over the Kicker.

 

[Chritaka]

UPDATE

After running this setup for a few weeks, the Comp R sub and Key 500.1 both stopped working. At first, I thought it was just the sub. I installed a new sub (JL W1) and still no sound. Come to find out, the amp also stopped working.

I replaced the 500.1 with a new one and now I’m back in business.

The new JL W1 sub sounds great. I’d highly recommend the JL W1 to anyone considering it. I prefer the sound of the JL over the Kicker.

Any idea on the amp stopping? Overheated?

 

[Patriotic]

The B&O amp doesn’t produce a ton of power. I chose the the Hertz 100.3 4” speakers because they seemed to have lower power handling and higher sensitivity compared to other aftermarket 4” coaxial speakers. The 165L mid bass speakers do surprisingly well off of the B&O amp. I was also considering some other off-brand 6.5” midbass drivers, but went with the Hertz 165L because they were available at a good price and the frequency response and sensitivity seemed to complement the other speakers nicely.

I’m really happy with the way all of the speakers sound. I like the sound of the Hertz 4”. The 6.5” kick panel speakers also made a big difference.

After spending some time listening to different types of music, I have no complaints. The system plays louder relative to factory at any given volume level.

I am usually partial to the sound of silk or textile tweeters, but these Hertz w/ PEI tweeters sound pretty damn good in this setup. Not too harsh.

I’ve decided to go ahead and upgrade the subwoofer. I’m putting in a Kicker Key 500.1 and a Audison Aps8D subwoofer in the B&O enclosure. The APS8D is a dual 4ohm with 250w RMS, so I’ll be pushing it close to the limit with 300w RMS @ 2ohm. I chose the Audison instead of the wildly popular kicker comp r sub because it has a lower resonant frequency and is designed for smaller enclosures.

I’ll be installing the new sub next week and I’ll report back.

I have the B&O and ordered the Mabett rear speaker pods from Amazon and the Hertz X 165 speakers from Crutchfield. The Mabett pods have arrived but the Hertz speakers that were supposed to arrive Saturday won’t be here until Monday. Now I’m having bit of buyers remorse and considering just returning both. What do you think of this setup? I’m not very good at installing but thought I might give it a go.

 

[smonroe11]

I used the Plug n Play harness. It was a tad expensive ($100 shipped) and probably mostly unnecessary, but it prevented me from having to cut/splice any of the factory wiring.
https://plugnplaykits.com/collectio...plug-play-harness-kits?variant=41163051368638

Do you remember which wires are positive and negative in the sub enclosure that attach to the kicker subwoofer? Also does it matter which wire inputs on the Kicker subwoofer I use for each set of wires? I also purchased the plugnplaykits adapter.

1. I plugged the two plugs into the B&O amp and ran the thinner Y cable 4 wire plug to the kicker key 500.1

2. I ran 8 gauge ground wire to the bolt above the sub enclosure.

3. I ran 8 gauge power wire down behind the tail light enclosure under the Bronco following other wires I’ve ran for trailer etc. I ran it up to the battery and attached the 8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector (pretty much bought what @Ksjrb03 recommended except he didn’t use the plugnplaykits harness).

4. I ran the plug for the subwoofer volume nob

Should there be speaker wires that attach to Kicker Key Amp on the end with the power and ground?

I’m at a loss as to what I’m missing…and could be a ton. I don’t know speakers and amps at all! Any and all help would be appreciated.

TIA

 

[X JBM X]

I have the B&O in my 23 2-Door. I installed Kicker Speakers and an 8" Subwoofer.

Kicker:

47KSC404 - 4" - (3) Front Dash
47KSC6705 - 6 3/4" - (4) Kick Panels and Mabett Rear Pods
48CWRT - 8" Subwoofer

All of these installed with no issues. Crutchfield had the Kick Panel 6 3/4" as the direct install, not the 6 1/2".

This is a very easy, substantial upgrade in sound quality. I am getting a little more bass out of the Sub, but I will add an Amp (AudioControl ACM 1.300) to drive it.

Did you splice the wires for the sub or is there a harness you picked up? Also, did you trim the sub or the enclosure for fit?

 

[ehock]

UPDATE

After running this setup for a few weeks, the Comp R sub and Key 500.1 both stopped working. At first, I thought it was just the sub. I installed a new sub (JL W1) and still no sound. Come to find out, the amp also stopped working.

I replaced the 500.1 with a new one and now I’m back in business.

The new JL W1 sub sounds great. I’d highly recommend the JL W1 to anyone considering it. I prefer the sound of the JL over the Kicker.

Now that you've have this installed for a minute, how has this been working for you? I'm looking to go this route, or the JL Stealthbox...but wanted to see how you're swap has worked out thus far.

Also, it's this sub correct?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13692079/JL-Audio-8W1v3-4.html

 

[STING555]

Now that you've have this installed for a minute, how has this been working for you? I'm looking to go this route, or the JL Stealthbox...but wanted to see how you're swap has worked out thus far.

Also, it's this sub correct?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13692079/JL-Audio-8W1v3-4.html

I’m still very happy with the setup. The JL sounds clean and blends well with the system. The B&O amp has been doing great powering the Hertz aftermarket speakers.

Yes. You’ve got the correct sub. It fits into the oem 2022 B&O enclosure with just some minor trimming to the outer rubber trim on the subwoofer.

 

[ehock]

I’m still very happy with the setup. The JL sounds clean and blends well with the system. The B&O amp has been doing great powering the Hertz aftermarket speakers.

Yes. You’ve got the correct sub. It fits into the oem 2022 B&O enclosure with just some minor trimming to the outer rubber trim on the subwoofer.

Thanks for the quick response. I've been down a rabbit hole with all of this, and this helps finalize a few items for me.

Also, thanks for the additional info regarding the amp. I was curious about that too, although I'm a little worried about my oem amp. I have the 2023 with the b&o setup, but my amp did NOT look like that when I took off the panels to do some sound dampening. I'll have to check some of the serial info when I put in the JL...

 

[eduard4us]

Thanks for the quick response. I've been down a rabbit hole with all of this, and this helps finalize a few items for me.

Also, thanks for the additional info regarding the amp. I was curious about that too, although I'm a little worried about my oem amp. I have the 2023 with the b&o setup, but my amp did NOT look like that when I took off the panels to do some sound dampening. I'll have to check some of the serial info when I put in the JL...

There is a very neat option to replace the B&O unit, mObridge. It has a an integrated DSP, I installed mine over the summer, it keeps the OEM look and it sounds great when tuned properly.

https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/

 

[ehock]

There is a very neat option to replace the B&O unit, mObridge. It has a an integrated DSP, I installed mine over the summer, it keeps the OEM look and it sounds great when tuned properly.

https://mobridge.us/product/ford-bronco-amplifier-plug-and-play-a2b/

I'm going with the mObridge setup, thanks!

A little peeved though, because it looks like I have the Ford OEM amp installed, even though I have the lux/B&O system. Although I hear both are terrible, it makes sense why my speaker upgrades haven't helped in the slightest thus far based on others experience with the B&O system...

Looking forward to making all this right with the mObridge setup.

 

[eduard4us]

I'm going with the mObridge setup, thanks!

A little peeved though, because it looks like I have the FORD OEM amp installed, even though I have the lux/B&O system. Although I hear both are terrible, it makes sense why my speaker upgrades haven't helped in the slightest thus far based on other's experience with the B&O system...

Looking forward to making all this right with the mObridge setup.

That is the B&O amp. The mObridge will replace it and use the exiting connections plus lines up front to the ACM unit for pods and center speaker.

The tuning is a bit of a learning curve if it is the first time you do it. But once it is tuned properly you will really like it.

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