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Battery/Alternator/Gremlin/Accessories 🤷🏻‍♂️ Currently at dealer for battery drain issues

BLINDSIDE

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I know there’s a million threads about alternators. Have read a bunch of them, probably not all, but still haven’t seen my exact situation.

This is a 2.7 First Edition approx 7,500 miles.
Only items hard connected to battery aftermarket are a winch and 4 pole trailer light harness. All other accessories/lights are through aux switches.

Yes I’ve been through water/mud but not close to the depth the Bronco should be capable off (video below).

Current status: Bronco dropped off to Ford dealer to diagnose battery drain issues.

I noticed on the way home a few days ago that auto stop/start didn’t work (not complaining about that!) and parking sensor sounds were a different tone. That self corrected the next day and all was well driving to work. Later that day trying to leave work the entire vehicle was dead (no response from vehicle whatsoever). Got it jumped and drove to auto parts store to have battery checked. Agent could not confirm battery was bad but recommended new battery. I declined. Drive home fine from there. While at home I checked Voltage with a power meter and battery was at 12.3V. I disconnected the negative on the battery. The next morning I checked voltage and still at 12.3V. Started fine and drove to work no issues. By end of day, battery completely dead again. I tried my portable battery charger but just got error alert. Had to jump from another vehicle to get going. On the few stops I made, I would disconnect negative on battery, and when I reconnected, it would start just fine. Last stop of the night (last night) was the dealer. This morning got the call it was dead and blocking their entrance. They replaced the battery to move it and keeping over weekend to run tests. Initial report is alternator is fine and something I added must be draining the battery.

In my mind, if the winch or trailer harness were killing the battery, the battery would have drained even with the negative disconnected. It didn’t. Am I wrong?

All other aftermarket electrical devices are wired through the aux switches, which shouldn’t be hot with the engine off. Am I wrong?

I’ve heard that a bad alternator may charge fine while the vehicle is on and continue to try to charge while the vehicle is off if it’s bad. Is that true? Dealer said alternator was fine.

Dealer is keeping over the weekend as they diagnose the issue.

What do ya’ll think?

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LockedBronco

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Did you try disconnecting the trailer harness and winch to see if that was the problem?

Yes sounds like something you added is draining the battery. How did you make the connections?
 
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BLINDSIDE

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Did you try disconnecting the trailer harness and winch to see if that was the problem?

Yes sounds like something you added is draining the battery. How did you make the connections?
I did not, but they were still connected to the battery when the negative was disconnected overnight and experienced no battery drain. Winch and trailer harness positive wires are connected to the accessory locations at the battery. Ground wires are connected to ground locations on the vehicle frame.
 

LockedBronco

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I did not, but they were still connected to the battery when the negative was disconnected overnight and experienced no battery drain. Winch and trailer harness positive wires are connected to the accessory locations at the battery. Ground wires are connected to ground locations on the vehicle frame.
Winch and trailer are wired HOT all the time?

Are you disconnecting the Negative wire from the battery is that correct?
 

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BLINDSIDE

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Something you added is draining the battery. Winch or trailer harness, is there a brake controller?
No brake controller.

If it was something I added (hardwired to battery positive terminal and grounded to frame), why would battery hold its charge when negative was disconnected? That tells me something from the vehicle is drawing it down (only drains when battery fully connected)
 

LockedBronco

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No brake controller.

If it was something I added (hardwired to battery positive terminal and grounded to frame), why would battery hold its charge when negative was disconnected? That tells me something from the vehicle is drawing it down (only drains when battery fully connected)
Because you disconnected the battery.
 
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BLINDSIDE

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Because you disconnected the battery.
I believe you are correct. I was overlooking the battery negative to frame connection completing that circuit. Thank you
 

snolen

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if this is a dirt mountain truck the battery may just be junk they had to replace it in mine problem solved. I had mine on a battery tender would unhook it drive someplace and come back to a dead vehicle had to jump it twice. I would check with the volt meter every thing seemed right. it was charging when running but would still die think it was a bad cell in the battery. hopefully there is nothing draining yours down good luck
 

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If yours is an FE, then it has LED tail lamps, and required a converter to be installed for the trailer wiring (usually part of the trailer wiring kit). Those converters are known problem makers. They typically last about one year before going bad. That would be my 1st guess, disconnect that 1st
 

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Once you disconnect the negative terminal on the battery there should be no drain from the battery
And an alternator cannot charge if a vehicle is not running. Not sure who told you this.
Something you installed that is always Hot is causing the drain, unless battery is bad. My F250 made it to 4k miles before it left me stranded with it’s lead acid Ford battery. That was 4 years ago. Battery was bad.
 

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I know there’s a million threads about alternators. Have read a bunch of them, probably not all, but still haven’t seen my exact situation.

This is a 2.7 First Edition approx 7,500 miles.
Only items hard connected to battery aftermarket are a winch and 4 pole trailer light harness. All other accessories/lights are through aux switches.

Yes I’ve been through water/mud but not close to the depth the Bronco should be capable off (video below).

Current status: Bronco dropped off to Ford dealer to diagnose battery drain issues.

I noticed on the way home a few days ago that auto stop/start didn’t work (not complaining about that!) and parking sensor sounds were a different tone. That self corrected the next day and all was well driving to work. Later that day trying to leave work the entire vehicle was dead (no response from vehicle whatsoever). Got it jumped and drove to auto parts store to have battery checked. Agent could not confirm battery was bad but recommended new battery. I declined. Drive home fine from there. While at home I checked Voltage with a power meter and battery was at 12.3V. I disconnected the negative on the battery. The next morning I checked voltage and still at 12.3V. Started fine and drove to work no issues. By end of day, battery completely dead again. I tried my portable battery charger but just got error alert. Had to jump from another vehicle to get going. On the few stops I made, I would disconnect negative on battery, and when I reconnected, it would start just fine. Last stop of the night (last night) was the dealer. This morning got the call it was dead and blocking their entrance. They replaced the battery to move it and keeping over weekend to run tests. Initial report is alternator is fine and something I added must be draining the battery.

In my mind, if the winch or trailer harness were killing the battery, the battery would have drained even with the negative disconnected. It didn’t. Am I wrong?

All other aftermarket electrical devices are wired through the aux switches, which shouldn’t be hot with the engine off. Am I wrong?

I’ve heard that a bad alternator may charge fine while the vehicle is on and continue to try to charge while the vehicle is off if it’s bad. Is that true? Dealer said alternator was fine.

Dealer is keeping over the weekend as they diagnose the issue.

What do ya’ll think?

Did you get it back from dealer?
 
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BLINDSIDE

BLINDSIDE

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Did you get it back from dealer?
Got it back from dealer yesterday after work. Advisor said bad battery and replaced under warranty. Drove straight home and parked for the night about 5:45pm. This morning at 6:15am, battery completely dead. I disconnected my winch (pos and negative (I was wrong before, the negative was hardwired to the battery)) and the trailer harness hot wire then hooked up charger until it got to about 10 volts and then attached a portable booster pack for a few minutes and it started. Drove to work. Every hour or so I checked battery voltage. Throughout the day I would check voltage on battery. 12.63v when I got to work and 12.33v at end of day (7:30-4:45). Started fine at 5:15 (remote start didn’t work however).

Just now I was messing with trying to figure out if I could use volt meter to figure out which one is the culprit. Not sure how to do that but some things of note, I see 12.5v with winch completely disconnected if I go from battery hot to either unconnected winch wire and if I touch hot wire from winch to battery I’m getting a significant spark. Guessing that winch or wire is shorting out somewhere. Did not get any spark when I did the same thing to the trailer harness. Did see voltage however when I used meter to complete the circuit. Thoughts?
 

LockedBronco

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Got it back from dealer yesterday after work. Advisor said bad battery and replaced under warranty. Drove straight home and parked for the night about 5:45pm. This morning at 6:15am, battery completely dead. I disconnected my winch (pos and negative (I was wrong before, the negative was hardwired to the battery)) and the trailer harness hot wire then hooked up charger until it got to about 10 volts and then attached a portable booster pack for a few minutes and it started. Drove to work. Every hour or so I checked battery voltage. Throughout the day I would check voltage on battery. 12.63v when I got to work and 12.33v at end of day (7:30-4:45). Started fine at 5:15 (remote start didn’t work however).

Just now I was messing with trying to figure out if I could use volt meter to figure out which one is the culprit. Not sure how to do that but some things of note, I see 12.5v with winch completely disconnected if I go from battery hot to either unconnected winch wire and if I touch hot wire from winch to battery I’m getting a significant spark. Guessing that winch or wire is shorting out somewhere. Did not get any spark when I did the same thing to the trailer harness. Did see voltage however when I used meter to complete the circuit. Thoughts?
Sounds like winch is the problem, what make and model is it?
When you disconnect winch was the wire hot/warm to the touch?

Do not reconnect winch!
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