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Black Diamond Bronco Thread

imaginager

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Tarheel_Wes

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I just went with the "cheaper" Ford Gatorback Molded Splash Guards for the front only. I held them in position and used a pencil to trace around the cross-section of the rock rail, then took some additional measurements and corrected my "tracing" on the mud guard.

Once I was satisfied I used an Exacto hobby blade to slowly make the cuts. Essentially, I scored over the traced area repeatedly with the Exacto until it cut through the plastic. Took about 10 minutes for each mud guard but the fit is pretty snug. I did drill the fender flares, with the idea that I'd replace them later. But, to be completely candid, I really don't mind the look of the mud guards, so I probably will just leave it as is.

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Thanks.
So, In this set-up, are you actually taking the rock rail off and threading it THROUGH the mud flap?
 

imaginager

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I didn't remove the rails, just slid the guards over the ends. There's a bit of a trick to it, getting the correct angle to align the guards while sliding them between the rail and the wheel well / bottom attachment point.
 

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https://m.northerntool.com/shop/too...8302?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-SHIPPED-_-1206-_-CONF

I tried fitting the factory flaps but just couldn’t get them to fit like I wanted without flapping on the outside.

I bought this set of mud flaps from northern tool for $8.49 per pair + extra for shipping. They are actually very thick and much more difficult to cut than the factory set, but a drill and jigsaw do the trick. I’d recommend ordering two sets in case you screw up like I did on the passenger side( I cut on wrong side of the flap. They are plenty wide for the Sasquatch tires and fit nicely using 2 existing trim clips in the fender well. I drilled one extra hole inside a lip on the fender flare (not through it). Longer plastic trim clips work better. With the right trim clips you could make them easily removable.

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ProdigyJKU

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Those look awesome, thanks for sharing. I park in a dirt parking lot every time I go into work, so it's nearly impossible to keep the doors clean.
Thanks! As you can tell by my pics it’s impossible to keep anything clean in my area;)
 

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Been really trying to figure out what I'm gonna do for tires, and thinking I just want to have my dealer put 285/70/17's on before I drive it off the lot...so I guess the same stock tire, but one size bigger....but, does anybody know if the factory BD tire (and the factor BL tire for that matter) is the "C" rated tire or the "E" rated tire?
 

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Been really trying to figure out what I'm gonna do for tires, and thinking I just want to have my dealer put 285/70/17's on before I drive it off the lot...so I guess the same stock tire, but one size bigger....but, does anybody know if the factory BD tire (and the factor BL tire for that matter) is the "C" rated tire or the "E" rated tire?
the factory 265/70/17 112/109T is load C, with 6 plies and 2 in the sidewall (this is the General Grabber)
 

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the factory 265/70/17 112/109T is load C, with 6 plies and 2 in the sidewall (this is the General Grabber)

Ok, thanks.....so, I'm gonna go up to the 285/70/17 General Grabbers, I just don't know whether or not to. get load C or E......I have the two package.....but I don't tow a TON....but I do have a small 8' utility trailer where I'll haul the occasional lumber from Home Depot, or a 4-wheeler.....ONCE a year I might tow a pallet of sod, which comes in at a little over 2k pounds.......

So, just not sure what to get.
 

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Ok, thanks.....so, I'm gonna go up to the 285/70/17 General Grabbers, I just don't know whether or not to. get load C or E......I have the two package.....but I don't tow a TON....but I do have a small 8' utility trailer where I'll haul the occasional lumber from Home Depot, or a 4-wheeler.....ONCE a year I might tow a pallet of sod, which comes in at a little over 2k pounds.......

So, just not sure what to get.
well if you want to take your horse offroad, take the higher load rate. If you stay on pavement, you should be fine with the lower load capacity. The increased load is increased plies, makes the whole tire stronger and less to get damaged offroad.

I think the stock tire (load C) is perfect in terms of hardness/softness and will stick with that load rating.
 

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Ok, thanks.....so, I'm gonna go up to the 285/70/17 General Grabbers, I just don't know whether or not to. get load C or E......I have the two package.....but I don't tow a TON....but I do have a small 8' utility trailer where I'll haul the occasional lumber from Home Depot, or a 4-wheeler.....ONCE a year I might tow a pallet of sod, which comes in at a little over 2k pounds.......

So, just not sure what to get.
"E" is a stiffer tire. Not the friendliest tire for airing down off-road (But I prefer "E" for heavy off-road use) and when traveling empty on hwy's. I see no reason for the "E" rated tire with what you have described for usage. Take your time, make sure your are aired properly when towing with the "C" rated tires and you will enjoy your majority of driving more with the more "Relaxed" sidewall.
 

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well if you want to take your horse offroad, take the higher load rate. If you stay on pavement, you should be fine with the lower load capacity. The increased load is increased plies, makes the whole tire stronger and less to get damaged offroad.

I think the stock tire (load C) is perfect in terms of hardness/softness and will stick with that load rating.
So, you think it's ok for the occasional on-road towing? Does the tire's load limit play into the payload and/or towing limits for the bronco itself? In other words E is rated at 3195 pounds and C is 2470, how does this interplay with the Bronco's two capacity of 3500 pounds? Or does its at all?
 

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"E" is a stiffer tire. Not the friendliest tire for airing down off-road (But I prefer "E" for heavy off-road use) and when traveling empty on hwy's. I see no reason for the "E" rated tire with what you have described for usage. Take your time, make sure your are aired properly when towing with the "C" rated tires and you will enjoy your majority of driving more with the more "Relaxed" sidewall.
Does a C rated tire have a smoother or better ride than an E? I know the COST is cheaper? In other words would I have any DISADVANTAGE to an "E" tire vs the C? (Other than the air-down thing?)

If a C is not as loud, Id prefer that.
 

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Does a C rated tire have a smoother or better ride than an E? I know the COST is cheaper? In other words would I have any DISADVANTAGE to an "E" tire vs the C? (Other than the air-down thing?)

If a C is not as loud, Id prefer that.
Easy answer from my view... "C" rated tires are more for everyday softer ride use. Just look at how nearly every SUV and car come with the "C" rated tires. Even most 1/2 ton trucks!

Ever notice how you may run 35-38lbs. air pressure on your SUV/car, only to go get a "Service" done and they reduce your air pressure to 29-30 lbs.? All about the ride. I prefer a stiffer sidewall and the small improvement of gas mileage from a properly aired tire. Regardless of class.

"E" rated tires are designed more for heavier loads, rougher terrain and heat tolerance (Tires got hotter the more weight they take on). And you really do not want the tail to wag the dog (Trailer moving the tow vehicle). "E" rated tires provide a much better resistance to what a trailer tries to do to the tow vehicle. The stiffer sidewalls are night and day in comparison to the "C" rated tires in this instance.

Unless you are doing hwy driving when towing or a lot of towing. "C" rating tires fit the bill for the "Every once in a while" type use to once a week. It is all about wind, weight and use.

P.S. An aired down "E" rated tire is significantly better off-road at reduced sidewall punctures than a "C" will ever be. I like to say... "C" is as tough as a balloon, "E" is like a football. It can take some hits :cool:
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