Bronco Plug and play 1150W RMS amp replacement kit for B&O back in stock!

[mObridge]

Can the rca preout be tuned with dsp to add an additional amplifier? An example would be using it to feed a mono subwoofer amp.

Yes it can, it has all DSP features available, including time alignment crossovers EQ points ect.

I doubt you'll need a monoblock, our subchannel will output 400w RMS into 2 ohm. But if you need more, it is there!

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[mObridge]

**2 Door owners**

OK so thanks to this awesome community, a 2 door Bronco owner near to me offered their car for development.

After 2 full days of investigation what I found was a little disappointing:

Due to the cupholder in the rear quarter panel, it is not possible to mount our amplifier on the factory subwoofer box without some modification to the box.

The amplifier cannot protrude much further than the factory amp, so our amp must mount on the same holes as the factory amplifier which means that this piece of plastic needs to be removed all together and then the hole filled, I used multiple layers of JB weld to reshape the hole.

So my message to Bronco 2 door owners is:
If you are planning on using the factory subwoofer enclosure then proceed at your own peril, you will need a Dremel, heat gun and some patience to make our amp fit in the stock location.

Below is a photo of just before I flooded the area with JB weld to reform the edge.

Otherwise, if you are going to use a different subwoofer solution then play on, the kit will be easy to install.

Just make sure you are aware of what you're getting into before purchasing if you have a 2 door Bronco.

 

[mpeugeot]

So, just a personal insight as I have a two door and a Kicker 8 inch sub in the factory sub box currently. It's weak sauce, it just doesn't have enough punch. It's not even on par with the 180 watt 46HS10 sub-woofer. It's a limitation of having an 8 inch sub, just not enough air movement, and not the amp.

My personal opinion is that if you are going to making an investment in bettering the sound system in the two door, you would be much better off with a stinger tailgate enclosure or installing something like a Kicker 48TRTP122 (12" downward firing sub with a passive radiator) which can handle the 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms. This amp can reportedly dish out up to 400 watts RMS at 2 ohms, but I suspect that the 48TRTP122 will be a good match for the 2 door Bronco (I will know more on Saturday when I get my Kicker 48TRTP122).

Anyway Fraser has been amazingly helpful with setup of the amplifier and responded quickly to any and all questions. What I believe that I made end up doing is removing the rear pods eventually and relocating 6.5" speakers into the tailgate.

 

[mObridge]

So, just a personal insight as I have a two door and a Kicker 8 inch sub in the factory sub box currently. It's weak sauce, it just doesn't have enough punch. It's not even on par with the 180 watt 46HS10 sub-woofer. It's a limitation of having an 8 inch sub, just not enough air movement, and not the amp.

My personal opinion is that if you are going to making an investment in bettering the sound system in the two door, you would be much better off with a stinger tailgate enclosure or installing something like a Kicker 48TRTP122 (12" downward firing sub with a passive radiator) which can handle the 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms. This amp can reportedly dish out up to 800 watts RMS at 2 ohms, but I suspect that the 48TRTP122 will be a good match for the 2 door Bronco (I will know more on Saturday when I get my Kicker 48TRTP122).

Anyway Fraser has been amazingly helpful with setup of the amplifier and responded quickly to any and all questions. What I believe that I made end up doing is removing the rear pods eventually and relocating 6.5" speakers into the tailgate.

Yes this too. Its a lot of work to save a plastic 8 inch subwoofer enclosure. If budget allows I highly recommend doing away with the factory enclosure all together.

For the record, It will do 800w Peak 400W RMS into 2 ohm. Still plenty!

 

[35tires]

So, just a personal insight as I have a two door and a Kicker 8 inch sub in the factory sub box currently. It's weak sauce, it just doesn't have enough punch. It's not even on par with the 180 watt 46HS10 sub-woofer. It's a limitation of having an 8 inch sub, just not enough air movement, and not the amp.

Airspace, location, etc. all contribute to a bad experience with an 8. I have seen some folks do AMAZING things with 8s but honestly I spent a lot on a full system upgrade and it's never going to be what a 10 or 12 well placed ported box would do or even a good sealed box that's well situated.

I have a jl audio w1 8 in there which is a really decent sub and it just lacks punch. I think bumping to anything more expensive in the 8 inch range is a waste. I'm trying to find a resolution that allows for a shallow 10 or 12 that doesn't go on the tailgate.

 

[mObridge]

Airspace, location, etc. all contribute to a bad experience with an 8. I have seen some folks do AMAZING things with 8s but honestly I spent a lot on a full system upgrade and it's never going to be what a 10 or 12 well placed ported box would do or even a good sealed box that's well situated.

I have a jl audio w1 8 in there which is a really decent sub and it just lacks punch. I think bumping to anything more expensive in the 8 inch range is a waste. I'm trying to find a resolution that allows for a shallow 10 or 12 that doesn't go on the tailgate.

This is true, but youre going to struggle to get amazing out of that factory sub box thats for sure. Port is also tuned for the factory sub and doesnt play nicely with others.

Have you seen the JL stealth box? Its expensive but will get a 10 inch in there.

 

[vicorjh]

I have a two door and a Kicker 8 inch sub in the factory sub box currently. It's weak sauce, it just doesn't have enough punch.

I had modified the factory sub and installed a JL Audio 8w3v3. That driver is specified for 250W RMS.

Heavily damped the enclosure. It has a nice punch to it. The boomy peak that occurred stock is reduced but it still required a bit of tuning with the DSP to level it out.

If interested:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/jl-audio-8w3v3-4-in-a-modified-oe-sub-enclosure.78805/

 

[gerby151]

This is true, but youre going to struggle to get amazing out of that factory sub box thats for sure. Port is also tuned for the factory sub and doesnt play nicely with others.

Have you seen the JL stealth box? Its expensive but will get a 10 inch in there.

Will your amp work with the JL Stealth box in a 2 door? Want to go this direction instead of hacking up my $60k bronco.
Thanks

 

[35tires]

This is true, but youre going to struggle to get amazing out of that factory sub box thats for sure. Port is also tuned for the factory sub and doesnt play nicely with others.

Have you seen the JL stealth box? Its expensive but will get a 10 inch in there.

I have a custom box from Gearshade. I'm debating on building something since I'm already set with everything else - a custom box I could probably get .5 cubes out of in that factory spot, so shallow mount, low air space and bigger is a complicated mission.

The Digital Designs SL610 can do 300-600 RMS, can be dual 2 or 4 ohm, can use .5 cubes and has a mounting depth of just 4 inches. With some work and some love that might be a really good solve for that factory sub spot. I don't have experience with Digital Designs but I think that's my next try.

If it's a fit I bet it's a good recommendation for your amp. I'm not sure if excursion would be an issue with that side panel though.

https://ddaudio.com/series/sl600-series/?status=2&global=2

 

[mObridge]

Will your amp work with the JL Stealth box in a 2 door? Want to go this direction instead of hacking up my $60k bronco.
Thanks

I would think so, I cant say for sure. But the stealth box doesn't have as large of a protrusion and will allow you mount our amp on similar mounting holes as the factory which means it should fit. You may just have to drill a hole in our amp to be able to use those mounting holes.

 

[Rat]

Biggest issue, the mounting plate was 4 door specific, for the less than 15% of us with a 2 door and less than that for 2 door Broncos with Lux package, it's not surprising that this may have been missed. They have a solution for 2 door Broncos, my solution was to slot the mounting holes and move the amp slightly rearward. 15 minutes to mod the plate. Scale of 1-10, 1 being the most minor inconvenience and 10 being the worst, I would call this a 2 (at worst).

Did you happen to take any pics of the plate when you modified it? How far back did you slot to accommodate it fitting?

 

[mpeugeot]

Did you happen to take any pics of the plate when you modified it? How far back did you slot to accommodate it fitting?

I still couldn't move it quite enough to clear. When I had posted that I had moved it far enough from the information I was told, but it turned out to not be enough.

 

[mpeugeot]

Promised Update.

The 48TRTP122 is a much better choice than the factory sub-box and the 8 inch Kicker. The 12 inch sub sounds a world better than the 8 inch (as it should)... It's not overbearing, but could be if I increased the gain some. I had a dial it down a few dB to get the right balance and sound. The bass is also much tighter.

If you are going to be upgrading the amp, spending the extra $260 for the sub is a small price for the right thump. Pretty happy with the result and makes more sense than fighting with the factory sub-box.

 

[Bad Andy]

Thank you to Fraser and MoBridge. My two door was the test vehicle. The upgrade in sound quality is amazing. I am sorry that other 2 door owners won’t be able to get a plug and play kit. I would highly recommend the upgrade and the trouble of modifying the stock sub enclosure. Of course the JBL stealth box would be an even easier option.

 

[Lanman]

Yeah that quote is no surprise especially with a 10inch sub. Good audio is expensive unfortunately!

We do not currently have a solution for the base system yet. We are working on an analogue version of this amplifier, hopefully will have a solution for the base system in around 6 months. Our solution would include a coding dongle to handle the Forscan business for you.

Stay tuned.

Is the radio in the non-B&O equiped Broncos really different than the one in the B&O equiped Broncos or is it just a matter of using Forscan to enable the digital output?

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