CarbonSteel's Journal

[CarbonSteel]

While I have no plans to go to the depth I did on the JL Wrangler I had, I will post upgrades/improvements I add over time.

Sharing the sheet that I use to track UOA data. I do this on all vehicles that I invest in. Overkill for most, but it is a hobby for me and for the Wrangler provided data that I had a coolant leak long before any traditional method would have detected it.

The sheet has UOAs (used oil analysis) and VOAs (virgin oil analysis) in it as well. When trending, it is important to start with a baseline for the oil that you use so that you can see how it is changing as miles are stacked on.

Link To 2023 Wildtrak UOAs

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[PWillette]

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[CarbonSteel]

Replaced my black beauty rings today with a set of silver ones and I think it looks much better. Thanks again @BigJ2!

A few things to note if you are contemplating the same:

Tools:

- T45 Torx bit and hand ratchet of your choice
- Torque wrench capable of 20-30NM
- M10 x 1.5 die with holder
- Graphite based anti-seize
- Paper towels

Process:

The bolts come from the factory with varying amounts of yellow thread locker. I have read some horror stories where they have either stripped the wheel threaded boss or twisted off especially when using an impact.

DO NOT use an impact for any part of the operation--use hand tools only. Here is what I did to get the bolts out (not a single issue with any of them).

1. Loosen the bolt about 1/2 turn. Resnug.
2. Loosen the bolt 2 turns. Resnug
3. Loosen the bolt 4 turns. Resnug.
4. Losen the bolt all the way and remove it.
5. Run each bolt through the M10x1.5 die to cut the thread locker out of the threads and true up the threads at the same time.
6. Use a small wire brush to clean the remainder out.
7. Wipe the face of the wheel down where the threaded bosses are.
8. Blow out all of the threaded holes with compressed air to remove any remaining thread lock remnants.
9. Apply anti-seize to the bolts. I only applied to one side as not much is needed, and it will spread as you tighten.
10. Torque the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 20NM. If you are not using anti-seize then tighten to 30NM.
11. Recheck torque after 100 miles or so.

Here are some photos of the bolts with the yellow thread locker:

After running through the die:

After wirebrushing:

Anti-seize that I used:

50/50:

All done!

 

[BigJ2]

Replaced my black beauty rings today with a set of silver ones and I think it looks much better. Thanks again @BigJ2!

A few things to note if you are contemplating the same:

Tools:

- T45 Torx bit and hand ratchet of your choice
- M10 x 1.5 die with holder
- Graphite based anti-seize
- Paper towels

Process:

The bolts come from the factory with varying amounts of yellow thread locker. I have read some horror stories where they have either stripped the wheel threaded boss or twisted off especially when using an impact.

DO NOT use an impact for any part of the operation--use hand tools only. Here is what I did to get the bolts out (not a single issue with any of them).

1. Loosen the bolt about 1/2 turn. Resnug.
2. Loosen the bolt 2 turns. Resnug
3. Loosen the bolt 4 turns. Resnug.
4. Losen the bolt all the way and remove it.
5. Run each bolt through the M10x1.5 die to cut the thread locker out of the threads and true up the threads at the same time.
6. Use a small wire brush to clean the remainder out.
7. Wipe the face of the wheel down where the threaded bosses are.
8. Blow out all of the threaded holes with compressed air to remove any remaining thread lock remnants.
9. Apply anti-seize to the bolts. I only applied to one side as not much is needed, and it will spread as you tighten.
10. Torque the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 20NM. If you are not using anti-seize then tighten to 30NM.
11. Recheck torque after 100 miles or so.

Here are some photos of the bolts with the yellow thread locker:

After running through the die:

After wirebrushing:

Anti-seize that I used:

50/50:

All done!

Love it!! Glad they arrived safely and that looks much better!

 

[CarbonSteel]

Posted this in December, but adding it to my journal so everything is in a single place:


Gang,

I just completed changing the fluid in the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle and added a Ford Performance cover on the rear axle at the same time. I changed all 3 at 2500 miles, the Bronco now has 5000 miles on it, so another 2500 mile run on all three.

I did not find anything unexpected and overall it was a smooth process--that anyone can do. I am not a professional videographer and so the rear axle is a few videos, but by the time I made it to the transfer case, I had figured it out. Apologies for the multiple videos, bad angles, and having to listen to my voice.

I am happy to answer any questions.

This funnel is a lifesaver - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10106B-FloTool-Filler-Refill/dp/B000EH4UXM

Front Axle Video -



- Amsoil 75W-110 fluid (about 1.2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?code=SVTQT-EA
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose 75W-110 because it is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 table update in 2005 AND because the capacity is so small. I also had it in my stash--I will switch to 75W-140 when it runs out.

Transfer Case Video -



- Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid (about 1.8QTs) - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XT-10-QLVC-Oil-Automatic/dp/B07ZTRVLX9
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose Motorcraft Mercon LV versus Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. because there is no combustion by products, the temperatures are nominal, and Motorcraft is cost effective. From my viewpoint, changing standard Motorcraft Mercon LV more often is better than running a premium synthetic longer.


Rear Axle:

- Amsoil 75W-140 fluid (about 2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?code=SVOQT-EA
- PTFE Megatape (Gray) - https://www.amazon.com/HERC-15100-1-2X1000-MEGATAPE/dp/B00LO49TV2
- I chose 75W-140 because Dana recommends it for the M220 axle (they also recommend it for the M210 front axle). Any 75W-140 off the shelf (Castrol, Mobil, or Valvoline, etc.) will also work if you do not want to order Amsoil.
- The bolt thread depth in the axle housing is 23mm. If using the OEM rubber and steel gasket with the Ford Performance cover, then you need M8 bolts that are 25mm long. The supplied bolts with the cover are 20mm and they will be too short for the OEM gasket.

Video 1 - Tools and Parts -

Video 2 - General Discussion About Cover/Brake Line Clips & Prying on Cover -

Video 3 - Initial Drain -

Video 4 - Inspection and Cavity Discussion -

Scott towel showing metal from cavity:

Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps -

Video 6 - OEM Brake Clip Construction -

Rear Cover Hardware (NEW longer flange bolts are needed if using OEM gasket because it it thicker. They are not needed if using the supplied gasket with the Ford cover--use the supplied bolts that come with the cover):

10 Each - Flange Bolts: M8x1.25x25mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-coarse-din-6921-flange-bolt-class-10-9-steel/?sku=BFD8X25YLW

2 Each - Brake Line Studs: M8x1.25x75mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-double-end-stud-class-10-9-hardened-steel/?sku=SH8X75DBLK

4 Each - Stud Washers: https://belmetric.com/hv-350-steel-thick-extreme-strength-din-6340-fender-washer/?sku=WFEHV8X23YLW

4 Each - Stud Flange Nuts (against cover and one side of brake line clamp): https://belmetric.com/class-10-steel-tall-collar-flange-nut-din-6331/?sku=NFFH8TALLYLW

2 Each - Stud Outside Nuts: https://belmetric.com/din-6923-coarse-full-wrench-stainless-smooth-flange-nut/?sku=NFF8X13SS

Magnetic Drain Plugs:

3 Each (if replacing all to be the same) - Low-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Plug with Hex Drive, Hollow with Magnet, 1/2 Pipe Size https://www.mcmaster.com/1457N14
[/QUOTE]

 

[CarbonSteel]

PPE and Mishimoto Transmission Pan Comparison:

I received two 10R80/10R60 transmissions pans for Christmas gifts and while I had both I wanted to do a small comparison video between the two.

Happy to answer any questions you may have. Enjoy!



@hotrodtim

 

[CarbonSteel]

It's -10°F out and snowing, so I thought I'd catch up on a couple of upgrades today.

I installed the rear IAG mudflaps and a Tackform Dash Bar.

The mudflaps were straight forward, though like many aftermarket brands, the fasteners were WAY too long. I'll probably install backing nuts and cut them off flush.

I installed the fronts a few weeks ago and they work pretty well. Previously, I would have road sludge all the way above the door handles and my hands would be filthy getting in and out. Now, the sludge is much lighter and only covers about half the door.

The Tackform was equally as easy to install and not difficult to align with the dash. I plan to install an oil pressure and rear axle temperature gauge as well as my GoPro 10 soon and the Tackform should handle them with no problems.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I also took some time to prep my Mityvac MV6400 for the up coming transmission fluid and filter change and PPE deep transmission pan installation.

I added 10 feet of 1/4" ID vinyl tubing to the wand (which will not flex enough to fit into the transmission fill point without crimping) and installed the Ford "candy cane" to the other end.

I grabbed it on a BF special, but was still well over $100. However, given the tight working space and that I'll do a number of dump and fills to ensure I have replaced the majority of the fluid, it was a good investment.

I also picked up two cases of Motorcraft Mercon ULV, a new filter, filter o-ring, and transmission pan gasket. I have about 4K miles to go before I change it at 10K. I'll put a few hundred miles between each dump and fill to allow the fluid to adequately mix.

I'll do a video of the process and share it here.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Another project is to add a couple of gauges & cups to the Tackform rail.

0-100PSI oil pressure and 100-280°F rear axle temperature gauges are in process.

Ford does not make the oil pressure easy to tap into from a fitting perspective. The OEM threads are M12x1.5 and every gauge maker in the planet typically uses 1/8" NPT. Fortunately, I found an adapter that I think will work very well. More details as the project progresses.

 

[PWillette]

Another project is to add a couple of gauges & cups to the Tackform rail.

0-100PSI oil pressure and 100-280°F rear axle temperature gauges are in process.

Ford does not make the oil pressure easy to tap into from a fitting perspective. The OEM threads are M12x1.5 and every gauge maker in the planet typically uses 1/8" NPT. Fortunately, I found an adapter that I think will work very well. More details as the project progresses.

Where are you connecting the OP adapter?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Where are you connecting the OP adapter?

I am going to remove the OEM oil pressure sending unit and install the adapter. The OEM oil pressure unit will screw into the top of the adapter and the ISS Pro will go into the side.

Here is the location of the OEM oil pressure sending unit (2.7L):

 

[PWillette]

I am going to remove the OEM oil pressure sending unit and install the adapter. The OEM oil pressure unit will screw into the top of the adapter and the ISS Pro will go into the side.

Here is the location of the OEM oil pressure sending unit (2.7L):

Thanks man. I've been contemplating this. I'll have to poke around the 2.3.. Where did you find the adapter?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thanks man. I've been contemplating this. I'll have to poke around the 2.3.. Where did you find the adapter?

I grabbed it from Amazon. There were some bad reviews, but as I have Prime I was not concerned. The machine work on it was flawless.

Here is the location for your 2.3L and as near as I can tell, the threads are the same on the sensor (M12x1.5) because the test in the service manual does not show different fittings for the 2.3L versus the 2.7L:

 

[CarbonSteel]

While I am pulling wire from the rear axle to the dash, I am going run the stainless flex hose for the remote air chuck mount for my (soon to be) under hood mounted ARB. More to follow...

 

[CarbonSteel]

@PWillette - getting closer. Have both sending units now. OEM uses an o-ring so I will need to see if the OEM opening in the block is machined in any special way versus the adapter.

The OEM sending unit does have a flat shoulder so I could use a copper or aluminum gasket to seal if the o-ring presents a problem.

More to follow...

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