Deep Sleep Mode

[chandlerschuler_]

I came home from a trip in my Bronco. About an hour later, I checked my FordPass app and had this notice ( see pic below ). I’ve put 13k on the odometer and never had this happen.

It tells you how to deactivate it, but I never activated it.

Make sure all doors are shut properly and lights are turned off. Also, if you have Zone lighting make sure that is also turned off, most people don't even realize their zone lighting is turned on but it will drain the battery.

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[da_jokker]

Yeah it's unfortunate that these Broncos are so sensitive to voltage. It really makes me worry about being out in the middle of nowhere, and the Bronco decides it doesn't want to start because the batteries isn't fully charged.

Generally speaking, A good 12v battery should measure slighly above that at rest (~12.5v). As you are starting the vehicle, it really shouldn't drop below 11v (although I've seen some drop almost to 10v and still test good).

Once the engine is running, your voltage should be above 13v but less that 14/15v.


And I'm not talking about a gauge in your dash. I'm talking about a multimeter measuring directly on the battery.

 

[JPye]

Had the exact same message a couple days ago and then again last night. In both instances, the Bronco had been driven within 12 hours before so battery should have been fine, and it met none of the typical pre-set conditions to cause this. I'm wondering if it might be caused by some bad code in a recent update of the Ford Pass app. My app shows an April 29 update.

I had this occur last night, Sunday May 15, 2022. My Bronco was driven over 70 miles last Thursday and out for a short trip around town last Friday. I plan to go out this morning and check the voltage. Is it possible Ford sent out a huge software update that tapped the battery? I dunno, but I don't think my batter voltage triggered "Sleep Mode".
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OK, I am back from checking my voltage. It was probably lower than what I saw when I got in my Bronco because I used the auto start on my key fob and it started immediately. (So much for being in sleep mode eh?) I turned it off when I got in and the voltage was 12.1 v. I re-started it and the voltage went to 13.2 v. Turned it off and it read 12.2 v. I let it run for one remote start cycle and the voltage reads 12.7v now. SO, I think Ford had an update or something that temporarily drained the battery or some other voltage draw pulled down the voltage and triggered the alert and initiation of Sleep Mode. It would be nice if FoMoCo would comment on this thread. @Ford Motor Company

SO, I found this online about the state of charge for car batteries, (General?)

To check the voltage you'll need a voltmeter, which can be purchased cheaply from most major automotive parts stores. Check the voltage of your battery using the voltmeter to help determine your next course of action.

• 12.6V volts or above - Your battery is healthy and fully charged. No further action is required.
• 12.5 volts - Your battery is at a healthy state of charge, but we'd recommend re-checking it within a few days to ensure the voltage hasn't dropped any further.
• 12.1 - 12.4 volts - Your battery is partially discharged and should be recharged as soon as possible, using a suitable battery charger. The lifespan of your battery will be moderately affected if it remains within this voltage range for extended periods of time.
• 12.0 volts or below - At 12.0 volts your battery is considered to be fully discharged or 'flat' and should be recharged as soon as possible. The lifespan of your battery will be severely affected if it remains within this voltage range for extended periods of time.
  • NOTE: After a full recharge, we'd strongly recommend visiting your local Century retailer to get a free battery check. This check will help determine whether a fault exists with the battery, or with your vehicle's charging system.

 

[NewToBronco]

Anyone had any actual battery issues after receiving this message? Just received that message today.

 

[KompressorV12]

I woke up to this also. I had the doors removed all weekend. Not sure if that had anything to do with it.

 

[Parker]

The battery rating that makes computers happy is Reserve Capacity RC - not a required number - usually an RV house battery concern. To keep a Corvette happy the RC must be 110 or higher - the higher the better.
Low voltage will cause random error codes., Reserve Capacity guards against weak spikes in power that guarantee an error code, and often an operating glitch.
I get a new high RC (found a 120 RC this year) battery for Corvette every two years - the Corvette 2-year-old take-out them performs flawlessly for another two years in my Tahoe.

 

[UtahBrandon]

Been battling "deep sleep" for a couple of months now. 12.1 Volts at rest using multimeter.

Dealer initially disconnected the Ford Perimeter Plus alarm saying that it was being chatty and causing network interference. I told them I highly doubted that that was the issue and to check the battery to see if that's the issue, however they sent me home to see if it would happen again.

Of course it happened again, so I brought it in yesterday and they couldn't find anything wrong but said that "all of my aftermarket add-ons were causing the issue". The only add-ons are the Diode Dynamics bumper lights with backlights that turn on when the ignition is on. Despite my calling out that this doesn't seem to be a charging issue (dash gauge charging indicated 13-15V), but a battery drainage issue, they had me pull the fuse to disable the backlights to see if that was the source of the problem. I asked again to investigate if I had a bad battery, but they didn't think that was the problem.

Of course it continued to happen again, so they called Ford and were told to replace the battery. I just picked it up so we'll see if it happens again.

 

[Razorbak86]

How Do I Find the Voltage of My Car Battery?

Batteries Plus Blog - Power - by Bryan Veldboom - updated on 10/6/2021

Car batteries generate the short burst of electricity needed to turn over your engine. Over time though, your battery becomes less efficient at holding a charge, which is why you should occasionally test its voltage to make sure your battery is performing properly. Today we'll walk you through how much voltage your battery should have and how to test it using a multimeter.

How Many Volts Should a 12-Volt Battery Have?

A 12-volt battery is standard in most modern vehicles. It consists of six cells, each of which contains 2.1 volts of power at full charge. Therefore, a car battery is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts or higher when the engine is off. When you start your car, your battery's voltage will drop for a short time before climbing back up to its running voltage. During the starting process, a healthy car battery should have a voltage of 10V or higher (although this can be lower in instances of cold weather). Once the vehicle is running, this measurement will be slightly higher. This is because your alternator is actively charging your battery. With the engine running, your battery's voltage should be somewhere between 13.5 and 14.7 volts.

What is the Minimum Voltage Needed to Start a Car?

When your battery's voltage drops even a small amount, it makes a big difference in its overall performance. The chart above shows what the voltage should be for different states of charge. As you can see, a voltage of 12.1V means your battery is operating at only 50% of its total charge. If your battery drops to a voltage of 11.9V or less, you're going to notice a serious drop-off in performance. Once it goes down to 11.6V, the battery is almost completely discharged.

How Many Volts Should a Car Battery Lose Overnight?

It's normal for your car to lose a small amount of charge each night due to parasitic draw. Parasitic draw refers to anything that continues to draw current from the battery after the engine is shut off. Examples of this include your car's interior lighting, clock, the settings on your car radio and its alarm system.

Fortunately, the amount of current drawn from these applications is minimal. For newer cars, you can expect between 50 and 80 milliamps of power, which works out to 0.05-0.08 volts of power. Older cars tend to have less interior electronics and will typically draw even less than 50-milliamps of power over the course of a single night. If you have a car that you don't use very often, you need to be proactive in keeping the battery charged. For a list of suggestions, read our blog titled "How Do You Keep a Car Battery from Dying When Not in Use?"

What are Some Other Factors That Affect Battery Voltage?

In addition to parasitic draw, there are a number of additional factors that can impact your battery's performance and lower its voltage. Read about six things that can drain your batteryand find out what you can do to help prevent them.

How Do You Measure Your Car Battery's Voltage?

You can measure your battery's voltage using a handheld tool called a multimeter. Just follow these simple steps.

1. Switch off any additional power draws, including headlights, sidelights, radio, air conditioning, GPS, etc.
2. Conduct your test after the car has been sitting with the engine turned off for a period of time.
3. Make sure you're using the proper safety gear; eye goggles & sturdy, waterproof gloves
4. Set the multimeter to voltage, then adjust it to somewhere between 15 and 20 volts of DC (direct current) power. If your multimeter doesn't have incremental settings, just set it to DC volts.
5. Double-check that the vehicle's ignition is off, then remove the cover from the battery
6. Wipe any grease or corrosion from both of the terminals to ensure a good electrical contact
7. Connect the multimeter to the two terminals, with the red lead touching the positive terminal and the black lead touching the negative terminal.

How to Interpret Your Multimeter Reading

If your battery has a charge between 12.4V and 12.7V, your battery is fully charged and ready to run. If your voltage is below 12.2V, it needs to be recharged. Take a 30-minute drive on the highway or pick up a charger to bring the voltage back up. If your voltage is higher than 12.9V, the battery is overcharged. Overcharging can damage a battery, so you'll want to remove some of that excess current. You can do this by switching your headlights on the high beam setting for a short time and then testing your battery again to make sure it's in the ideal range.

 

[UtahBrandon]

Been battling "deep sleep" for a couple of months now. 12.1 Volts at rest using multimeter.

Dealer initially disconnected the Ford Perimeter Plus alarm saying that it was being chatty and causing network interference. I told them I highly doubted that that was the issue and to check the battery to see if that's the issue, however they sent me home to see if it would happen again.

Of course it happened again, so I brought it in yesterday and they couldn't find anything wrong but said that "all of my aftermarket add-ons were causing the issue". The only add-ons are the Diode Dynamics bumper lights with backlights that turn on when the ignition is on. Despite my calling out that this doesn't seem to be a charging issue (dash gauge charging indicated 13-15V), but a battery drainage issue, they had me pull the fuse to disable the backlights to see if that was the source of the problem. I asked again to investigate if I had a bad battery, but they didn't think that was the problem.

Of course it continued to happen again, so they called Ford and were told to replace the battery. I just picked it up so we'll see if it happens again.

Has anyone seen any resolution to this? The dealer replaced the battery and I continue to get the message. All aftermarket accessories disconnected and a fresh battery. Still get the message. It's not directly causing issues right now as it starts fine every time, but I do have concerns about boon docking in the future.

 

[prospectfour]

Has anyone seen any resolution to this? The dealer replaced the battery and I continue to get the message. All aftermarket accessories disconnected and a fresh battery. Still get the message. It's not directly causing issues right now as it starts fine every time, but I do have concerns about boon docking in the future.

Bumping this thread…

I’m getting the same issue with the “deep sleep” message except after ~72hr of not driving it the vehicle won’t start anymore. Has to be jumped started and driven to charge.

The dealer replaced my battery under warranty the first visit. The second visit they claimed they couldn’t replicate the problem. I have absolutely no clue if my Bronco will start on a daily basis which is infuriating for a 6 month old vehicle.

I’m a new @Ford Motor Company customer who’s coming from VAG. For all the flak they get about being unreliable my A4 never left me stranded after 10 years and 205k miles.

Giving it one more try before I finally believe this is a lemon.

 

[Duck Hunter]

Same issue here. 2021 Black Diamond. This started happening about a month ago. I drive my car every day for my job. Usually on the road 1-3 hours a day. Hasn't mattered. It's going into deep sleep mode every night now. I'd like to be able to remote start with the fordpass app but I can't now. It worked just fine all last winter.

Full size bronco. I don't have a sport. Not sure why my account says sport.

 

[Dezertrider20158]

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...operly-charge-how-to-power-accessories.59199/

Here is a link for everyone dealing with battery issues. I found it very informative about how the ECU/PCM talks to the battery, specifically the Battery Monitoring System (BMS). It's not always about the voltage btw, which most people have pointed out can fluctuate before, during, and after operation. This video did a good job of illuminating me about the amp draw (spoiler, there is a lot of amp draw) the bronco computers put on the battery and how the charging system does not adequately recharge the battery on short trips. Also, this video talks about how to properly charge and check the amp draw and voltage of the battery. I would suggest this video be watched by anyone who routinely takes short trips in the bronco (i.e. short daily commutes) or anyone who has aftermarket accessories installed on their broncos as they could be drawing power from the battery and depending how that power is accessed the BSM might not be aware of that extra power draw.

I am in no capacity an expert but we are all here to help each other make this machine the most bada$$ 4x4 on the open market! I hope this helps

 

[Duck Hunter]

Picked up a stock battery from local dealership. They said it (the battery) just came in a couple days ago. I didn't feel like waiting for the dealer to take a couple days looking at it and arguing with them about my accessories. Only been one night but good so far. Didn't not go into deep sleep last night. That's the first time in weeks. Remote start though FordPass worked as it should this morning.

 

[JerryC]

I had surgery and it was three weeks before I started the Bronco. Got the battery message after two works of sitting.
When I started it up the cluster said it was charging at 15.2v. I idled it like that for half an hour while listening to music. So far so good.

 

[Doedawg]

I have a 2021 4dr 1st edition, this truck starts when it wants to! The truck literally shuts completely down with no warning. Everything is fine then you park it and it the doors won’t unlock, ( no response to the key fob). You then have to manually unlock the door, (which sets the alarm off), all screens and gauges are black no response. Even putting the key fob in its home in the center console, it dose not recognize it. The only thing you can do is disconnect the ground from the battery, wait about 25min-40min for everything to reset to default and like magic the truck starts like there was no problem at all…
I have load tested the battery, (Ford has replaced it 3 times with new ones), I have checked and tested all connections.
It has been at ford for 2 months, with software updates, new computer, new key fobs, and still shuts down. Any one else have this problem?

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