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So if you are like me, you ordered your Bronco during the time when adding "Sasquatch Package" was a major constraint and you were forced to decide if you wanted to wait for a 2027 model or to go with out it. I looked at what SAS gave you over Non-SAS, and figured that I would be replacing just about everything SAS comes with (wheels/suspension etc.) I didn't realize at the time that the front axles were different but lets not dwell on that.... That being said a E-locker was one thing I knew I wanted when I ordered my rig, and was disappointed that I couldn't add it without upgrading to SAS. Therefore upgrading my rear axle was priority number one. I looked into swapping out just the differential and mulled over the idea of setting up new gears (dumb welded ring gear.) I've done gear work in the past and really was not looking forward to the idea of doing it again. I decided that the best option for me was going to just be ordering a complete axle from Ford and just doing the complete swap.
(T.L.D.R.) Swap is really not hard to complete. If you are looking for a guide on how to install a new "Hero Switch" and have the diff work using the factory ECU, This isn't it. If you are worried about your warranty, you probably don't want to do this swap. If you want a E-locker and don't want SAS I'd probably just order a Black Diamond.
What you need:
- A Bronco
- At least one friend or someone who owes you a favor, two would be better.
- Floor jacks and jack stands
- Hammer
- Alignment punch (lady slipper)
- Good selection of metric wrenches in large sizes (18mm-32mm)
- Good selection of deep/shallow metric 1/2 inch drive sockets (18mm-32mm)
- 8mm and 10mm sockets for a few bracket and driveshaft bolts.
- Long cheater bar or a impact gun
- Zip-ties and ratchet strap.
- Everything else that I can't think of.
I ordered my axle online and had it delivered to my dealership for pickup. With the help from a forklift we were able to slide it into the bed of my 1/2 ton and off I went. Being that I live in the city I didn't have access to any machinery to help me unload the axle when I got home. I did have an engine hoist so I used that to help me unload the axle from the crate.
Once the axle was on the ground safely, I backed the Bronco into the garage and got to work.
First step was to jack up the truck and get it secured with jack stands by the frame. You need to be able to manipulate the axle out of the truck so it needs to be free hanging supported by a jack. I proceeded to unbolt the brake caliper brackets along with unbolting and freeing up all of the clips that hold the brake lines and wiring harness to the axle. This allowed me to leave everything connected and alleviate the need to bleed brakes when the swap was completed. I used a bunch of zip ties to secure the calipers to the frame and hold wiring up out of my way.
Next was unbolting the drive shaft, which was a bunch of bolts through a flange on the axle. Ford recommends that these bolts be a one time use and after the swap I tend to agree. I will provide a link for the bolts here: https://tinyurl.com/3ufv48c8 Once unbolted I again used a string of zip-ties to hold the drive shaft out of my way.
Again using a jack to support the axle, next came the worst part of the swap. Anyone who has done a suspension lift on their Bronco knows that the lower shock mount bolt is torque to 10 million foot pounds and can be a pain to undo. Ford also appeared to change up the design of the nut holding said bolt as I have seen videos of the nut having a "flag" to help hold it while you turn the bolt. Mine did not have that flag so I had to hold the nut while I turned the bolt. If you have an impact I recommend using it here, removing the brake rotor splash shield to gain access. (The right angle "L" above the nut is there to hold the "Flag" and keep the nut from spinning. As you can see my nut doesn't have the flag.) The nut is a 30mm. I only remember that as my set didn't have a 30mm and I had to make the obligatory trip to harbor freight to get one.....
Once you have the shocks undone, the weight of the axle should be resting on the jack. I then un-bolted the trac-bar/pan hard bar what ever you want to call it. The nut is captured so it makes it pretty easy to unbolt. The axle may shift when you undo this bolt so be ready for that. On a side note, when you go to reassemble, this link might not line up with the new hole. Use a ratchet strap from the mounting point on the axle to the frame of the truck to help pull it back over into place.
I proceed to use a second jack under the front of the pinion flange to help secure the axle from rotating when I moved onto the next step.
Next I unbolted the upper control arms using a stubby impact driver to make it easier. It can be done with a breaker bar but the impact just makes life so much better. (sorry for fuzzy pic)
Finally comes the lower control arms. Once these are undone the axle should be ready to be lowered out and removed from the truck. If you were going to put a lift on you rig now would be the time as the rear suspension is all free hanging and easy to get at.
That is really all there is to it. Installation is simply the reverse of removal. It pays to have a buddy there to help guide the new axle back in under the truck and help line up bolt holes. A hammer and an alignment punch comes in handy getting the first few started.
Tips, Tricks and What I Learned:
Torque Specs:
All of these should be done with weight on the suspension at normal ride height (except brake brackets). All in FT/LBS
Drive Shaft: 35
Lower Control Arms: 159
Upper Control Arms: 159
Trac-Bar: 159
Lower Shock: 350 (Jeeze)
Brake Caliper Brackets: 111
Removal/install:
- The axle is very nose heavy. A second jack under the pinion in line with the first one allows you to lower them in unison and roll the old axle out and new axle in.
- Try to square up the new axle before attempting to install bolts. Trying to hammer home bolts leads to the possibility of stripped threads. Ask me how I know....
- Trac-bar can be a real pain. Once I used the ratchet strap to help shift the axle into position it made things much easier.
- Axle comes with new rotors. Win!
- Axle came partially filled. I used about half a quart of fluid to top it off.
- The shipping crate the axle came in would make an excellent compost bin or raised garden.
Wiring:
I have the factory AUX switches so I wired mine up to run off AUX 6. Using an AUX switch means you are in manual control of the locker, so it is up to you to turn it on and remember to turn it off when no longer needed.
If you refer to one of my other post about adding an E-locker, @Bmadda did an excellent job measuring out the voltages and how the computer modulates power to the axle. I was (and still am) tempted to find a way to emulate this using a custom circuit, but for now I am using 12 volts like a few others who have added their own locker. See that forum post here: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/need-help-with-my-eld-swap.69395/#post-1857568
As for routing the wires I ran them down along the frame zip-tieing them in a wire loom to the factory wiring harness. When the wires approached the rear axle I wrapped the loom in heat shielding like Ford did from the factory. There is a lot of room between the wires and the exhaust so this might not be necessary, but Ford did it so I figured I probably should to.
The hardest part of the swap for me was locating the correct pigtail to plug my wiring into the connector on the axle. Fords part website is pretty buggy for me and not the easiest to use. But for those that want a new pigtail it is part number: WPT829 It is close to $70 dollars new which is ridiculous. So if you have a local pick and pull or salvage yard near you go and get a pigtail for a hood ajar indicator off of a mid 2000's Ford Focus. I got mine from a '04 and it cost me $8.
Once you have completed the wiring test that it is properly working by spinning your axles. With the E-locker off, when you spin one tire forward the other should spin backwards. Now engage the locker and spin one tire. the other should now spin the same direction at the same speed. being locked together.
Or just take it out on the trails the next day and see if it works!
That's it. I am not responsible for you actions. If you do this swap be safe and know your limitations. Don't come back here complaining about any warranty issues or what not. Do this at your own risk.
(T.L.D.R.) Swap is really not hard to complete. If you are looking for a guide on how to install a new "Hero Switch" and have the diff work using the factory ECU, This isn't it. If you are worried about your warranty, you probably don't want to do this swap. If you want a E-locker and don't want SAS I'd probably just order a Black Diamond.
What you need:
- A Bronco
- At least one friend or someone who owes you a favor, two would be better.
- Floor jacks and jack stands
- Hammer
- Alignment punch (lady slipper)
- Good selection of metric wrenches in large sizes (18mm-32mm)
- Good selection of deep/shallow metric 1/2 inch drive sockets (18mm-32mm)
- 8mm and 10mm sockets for a few bracket and driveshaft bolts.
- Long cheater bar or a impact gun
- Zip-ties and ratchet strap.
- Everything else that I can't think of.
I ordered my axle online and had it delivered to my dealership for pickup. With the help from a forklift we were able to slide it into the bed of my 1/2 ton and off I went. Being that I live in the city I didn't have access to any machinery to help me unload the axle when I got home. I did have an engine hoist so I used that to help me unload the axle from the crate.
Once the axle was on the ground safely, I backed the Bronco into the garage and got to work.
First step was to jack up the truck and get it secured with jack stands by the frame. You need to be able to manipulate the axle out of the truck so it needs to be free hanging supported by a jack. I proceeded to unbolt the brake caliper brackets along with unbolting and freeing up all of the clips that hold the brake lines and wiring harness to the axle. This allowed me to leave everything connected and alleviate the need to bleed brakes when the swap was completed. I used a bunch of zip ties to secure the calipers to the frame and hold wiring up out of my way.
Next was unbolting the drive shaft, which was a bunch of bolts through a flange on the axle. Ford recommends that these bolts be a one time use and after the swap I tend to agree. I will provide a link for the bolts here: https://tinyurl.com/3ufv48c8 Once unbolted I again used a string of zip-ties to hold the drive shaft out of my way.
Again using a jack to support the axle, next came the worst part of the swap. Anyone who has done a suspension lift on their Bronco knows that the lower shock mount bolt is torque to 10 million foot pounds and can be a pain to undo. Ford also appeared to change up the design of the nut holding said bolt as I have seen videos of the nut having a "flag" to help hold it while you turn the bolt. Mine did not have that flag so I had to hold the nut while I turned the bolt. If you have an impact I recommend using it here, removing the brake rotor splash shield to gain access. (The right angle "L" above the nut is there to hold the "Flag" and keep the nut from spinning. As you can see my nut doesn't have the flag.) The nut is a 30mm. I only remember that as my set didn't have a 30mm and I had to make the obligatory trip to harbor freight to get one.....
Once you have the shocks undone, the weight of the axle should be resting on the jack. I then un-bolted the trac-bar/pan hard bar what ever you want to call it. The nut is captured so it makes it pretty easy to unbolt. The axle may shift when you undo this bolt so be ready for that. On a side note, when you go to reassemble, this link might not line up with the new hole. Use a ratchet strap from the mounting point on the axle to the frame of the truck to help pull it back over into place.
I proceed to use a second jack under the front of the pinion flange to help secure the axle from rotating when I moved onto the next step.
Next I unbolted the upper control arms using a stubby impact driver to make it easier. It can be done with a breaker bar but the impact just makes life so much better. (sorry for fuzzy pic)
Finally comes the lower control arms. Once these are undone the axle should be ready to be lowered out and removed from the truck. If you were going to put a lift on you rig now would be the time as the rear suspension is all free hanging and easy to get at.
That is really all there is to it. Installation is simply the reverse of removal. It pays to have a buddy there to help guide the new axle back in under the truck and help line up bolt holes. A hammer and an alignment punch comes in handy getting the first few started.
Tips, Tricks and What I Learned:
Torque Specs:
All of these should be done with weight on the suspension at normal ride height (except brake brackets). All in FT/LBS
Drive Shaft: 35
Lower Control Arms: 159
Upper Control Arms: 159
Trac-Bar: 159
Lower Shock: 350 (Jeeze)
Brake Caliper Brackets: 111
Removal/install:
- The axle is very nose heavy. A second jack under the pinion in line with the first one allows you to lower them in unison and roll the old axle out and new axle in.
- Try to square up the new axle before attempting to install bolts. Trying to hammer home bolts leads to the possibility of stripped threads. Ask me how I know....
- Trac-bar can be a real pain. Once I used the ratchet strap to help shift the axle into position it made things much easier.
- Axle comes with new rotors. Win!
- Axle came partially filled. I used about half a quart of fluid to top it off.
- The shipping crate the axle came in would make an excellent compost bin or raised garden.
Wiring:
I have the factory AUX switches so I wired mine up to run off AUX 6. Using an AUX switch means you are in manual control of the locker, so it is up to you to turn it on and remember to turn it off when no longer needed.
If you refer to one of my other post about adding an E-locker, @Bmadda did an excellent job measuring out the voltages and how the computer modulates power to the axle. I was (and still am) tempted to find a way to emulate this using a custom circuit, but for now I am using 12 volts like a few others who have added their own locker. See that forum post here: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/need-help-with-my-eld-swap.69395/#post-1857568
As for routing the wires I ran them down along the frame zip-tieing them in a wire loom to the factory wiring harness. When the wires approached the rear axle I wrapped the loom in heat shielding like Ford did from the factory. There is a lot of room between the wires and the exhaust so this might not be necessary, but Ford did it so I figured I probably should to.
The hardest part of the swap for me was locating the correct pigtail to plug my wiring into the connector on the axle. Fords part website is pretty buggy for me and not the easiest to use. But for those that want a new pigtail it is part number: WPT829 It is close to $70 dollars new which is ridiculous. So if you have a local pick and pull or salvage yard near you go and get a pigtail for a hood ajar indicator off of a mid 2000's Ford Focus. I got mine from a '04 and it cost me $8.
Once you have completed the wiring test that it is properly working by spinning your axles. With the E-locker off, when you spin one tire forward the other should spin backwards. Now engage the locker and spin one tire. the other should now spin the same direction at the same speed. being locked together.
Or just take it out on the trails the next day and see if it works!
That's it. I am not responsible for you actions. If you do this swap be safe and know your limitations. Don't come back here complaining about any warranty issues or what not. Do this at your own risk.
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