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Wow, Sasquatch package is so worth it after reading this thread.
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They should just close the forum and leave the search function
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$495 is a great price for a locker. I still can't believe Ford isn't offering it on the Base. You can get it on a RWD Ranger XL.
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I probably should wait for the Basemansquatch....
EXAC
New ring, and pinion set because they are matched, the new diff plus the labor ....1500 to 2k for the rear axle alone.
Regular 4x has always worked well for me, plus the traction control the Bronco will have .... I'd give all of that a shot before jumping straight to the locker or LS. My plan anyways....
EXACTLY the same reasons I'm sticking with the Base.... or even the Base Squatch.... heated seats end up being 6500 bucks.
New ring, and pinion set because they are matched, the new diff plus the labor ....1500 to 2k for the rear axle alone.
Regular 4x has always worked well for me, plus the traction control the Bronco will have .... I'd give all of that a shot before jumping straight to the locker or LS. My plan anyways....
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New ring, and pinion set because they are matched, the new diff plus the labor ....1500 to 2k for the rear axle alone.
Regular 4x has always worked well for me, plus the traction control the Bronco will have .... I'd give all of that a shot before jumping straight to the locker or LS. My plan anyways....
EXACTLY the same reasons I'm sticking with the Base.... or even the Base Squatch.... heated seats end up being 6500 bucks.
New ring, and pinion set because they are matched, the new diff plus the labor ....1500 to 2k for the rear axle alone.
Regular 4x has always worked well for me, plus the traction control the Bronco will have .... I'd give all of that a shot before jumping straight to the locker or LS. My plan anyways....
Nothing has changed. You will still need to buy a new gear set with whatever locker or LSD you want and have it installed.
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Thank you for the helpful answer.
I didn't realize the diff was $500 on the big bend. I know it's not comparable if you take the granger deal on the base. I was saying in comparison to what he was going to pay currently at his local dealer. The invoice -$1000 pricing is still less attractive on the base due to invoice only being $500 off msrp. It's a matter of figuring out what you want. I was just presenting options, since there's no way I'd buy a brand new truck and weld the gears...
Here's my comparison with all granger prices (estimated the aftermarket locker costs $2000 all said and done) - again this chart is for me, because i want premium interior (black diamond has this) and heaters (cheaper with heat-only on stock seats, more expensive with katzkin degreez)
for me, the black diamond is a way better deal for what i get, considering all the items in Base and Big Bend category marked "NO" - I did not add these to those builds. (also don't forget the value later of the higher model trim)
for me, the black diamond is a way better deal for what i get, considering all the items in Base and Big Bend category marked "NO" - I did not add these to those builds. (also don't forget the value later of the higher model trim)
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I would say figure about $3k minimum including labor for gears and locker. May be more may be less. Also depends on what brand you go with and how much labor is around you.
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The arb locker needs a compressor too.
So for locker , gears , seals , compressor and install you maybe looking at $2500 if you go somewhere reputable.
Or you could pay even more for something fancy.
On my pickup, the e-locker I have for the front costs an embarrassingly high amount of money. But it has held up really well and works great. I went with a less costly lunch box locker in the rear that did not hold up for even 30k miles with one of the bearings completely coming apart, then had to have it redone. But after around two years the pinion seal is leaking so badly something will have to be done. So do it right or do it twice, or three times in my case. The expensive front E-locker turned out to be the better deal long term.
But maybe you will be more lucky, I wish I could go back in time and get a better rear locker the first time, as it would have cost less long term.
Edit: I just checked the price and to redo my pickups rear diff to match the front locker would be
$2,899
So for locker , gears , seals , compressor and install you maybe looking at $2500 if you go somewhere reputable.
Or you could pay even more for something fancy.
On my pickup, the e-locker I have for the front costs an embarrassingly high amount of money. But it has held up really well and works great. I went with a less costly lunch box locker in the rear that did not hold up for even 30k miles with one of the bearings completely coming apart, then had to have it redone. But after around two years the pinion seal is leaking so badly something will have to be done. So do it right or do it twice, or three times in my case. The expensive front E-locker turned out to be the better deal long term.
But maybe you will be more lucky, I wish I could go back in time and get a better rear locker the first time, as it would have cost less long term.
Edit: I just checked the price and to redo my pickups rear diff to match the front locker would be
$2,899
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I'm kinda the same place as you. Base, Basquatch or BB (w/locker).
Adding a locker to a Base will be difficult and expensive. Since you are manual, there is a 4.46 set up in accessory list for about $2K. From strictly a value aspect Basquatch is the best deal, but I think overkill. With a BB I can have close to my ideal: rear locker, 4.27, nice wheels and acceptable tires, color availability and a few niceties BUT it costs probably $2K more than it should.
I'm still waffling, but probably going BB
Adding a locker to a Base will be difficult and expensive. Since you are manual, there is a 4.46 set up in accessory list for about $2K. From strictly a value aspect Basquatch is the best deal, but I think overkill. With a BB I can have close to my ideal: rear locker, 4.27, nice wheels and acceptable tires, color availability and a few niceties BUT it costs probably $2K more than it should.
I'm still waffling, but probably going BB
also keep in mind the base rims are very skinny and your tire choices will be limited (16x7 rims)
Yes but you also need to consider if you're going to do new wheels and tires on base, or if you'd keep the ones that come with big bend. That will put you much closer to the cost difference with a factory locker and higher trim model. Not saying not to go base, just saying make sure you think if any other upgrades you're considering. If you would change the BB or BD wheels anyway, then yeah doesn't matter as much.
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