FORD BUILDS LEMONS 🍋 **BOUGHT FROM LEIF JOHNSON BRAND NEW** LJ did all mods prior to purchase claiming Saleen did them

[Arrowbear Rider]

I wired my own lights, and after much research and help from this forum (thank you) I went with the following:
#1 (20amp) a 300w light bar.
#2 (15amp) 3 pairs of fog lights 240w total.
#3 (10amp) LED rock lights, maybe 100w.
#4 (10amp) Ditch lights 120w.

Note: my lights are cheaper ones so I was extra careful about the amps.

I don't see how they put all of those lights AND a winch on that rig without over loading a switch or two.

The winch should have taken the #1 switch which leaves not much to run all those other lights.

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[Red Mountain Pass]

Sorry OP - hopefully it ends well.

 

[DefNotBuddyLee]

Leif Johnson is an authorized Saleen seller/distributor/whatever. They were one of the first places in central Texas in the 90s to buy a Saleen. While I haven't dealt with their sales in a long time, their service team was pretty top notch and the old guys in their parts department were WELL known in the area for their knowledge on Ford products . This is not to say that if they did the add-ons they could not have messed up, but just to say they have some pretty solid people working there. The kind of people that tend to make things right when things go sideways. All of the above is for the Koenig location...I have no experience at their Truck City or elsewhere).
OPs beef is most definitely with the dealer, as we all agree that is in no way "stock" and was modded by someone. I join the crowd in saying I believe there is more than meets they eye in this situation. However, if you aren't getting the relief you want you may have to seek out an attorney to review your rights and send a strongly worded letter to the dealer to get things moving.

 

[MNBronc]

Check this:

 

[Ninjak]

I wired my own lights, and after much research and help from this forum (thank you) I went with the following:
#1 (20amp) a 300w light bar.
#2 (15amp) 3 pairs of fog lights 240w total.
#3 (10amp) LED rock lights, maybe 100w.
#4 (10amp) Ditch lights 120w.

Note: my lights are cheaper ones so I was extra careful about the amps.

I don't see how they put all of those lights AND a winch on that rig without over loading a switch or two.

The winch should have taken the #1 switch which leaves not much to run all those other lights.

I run a warn winch, rigid lights (fogs) in the bumper #6 A pair of ditch lights on the mirror attachments, #3 #4, and a rigid light bar #2 All work fine for me. So not sure who did what, or how, but you can run all if done correctly. (Update: I hit 8 instead of 6)

 

[Yukon65006]

I wired my own lights, and after much research and help from this forum (thank you) I went with the following:
#1 (20amp) a 300w light bar.
#2 (15amp) 3 pairs of fog lights 240w total.
#3 (10amp) LED rock lights, maybe 100w.
#4 (10amp) Ditch lights 120w.

Note: my lights are cheaper ones so I was extra careful about the amps.

I don't see how they put all of those lights AND a winch on that rig without over loading a switch or two.

The winch should have taken the #1 switch which leaves not much to run all those other lights.

Has anyone confirmed it even came with the factory switch option? They could have installed a Auxbeam controller or one of the many other aftermarket switch assemblies out there.

Even if it did come with the switches did the installer use the proper relays and wire gauge? Or how did they make the connections? Have seen way to mods done with cheap wire taps and questionable splices.

 

[Tex]

I wired my own lights, and after much research and help from this forum (thank you) I went with the following:
#1 (20amp) a 300w light bar.
#2 (15amp) 3 pairs of fog lights 240w total.
#3 (10amp) LED rock lights, maybe 100w.
#4 (10amp) Ditch lights 120w.

Note: my lights are cheaper ones so I was extra careful about the amps.

I don't see how they put all of those lights AND a winch on that rig without over loading a switch or two.

The winch should have taken the #1 switch which leaves not much to run all those other lights.

LOL what

Why should the winch be on #1? That's ridiculous. You technically don't even need to wire the winch to the switches in the first place. All winches use a relay for power so they're not drawing that 300-400A through a switch, and battery disconnects are no different. You're looking at maybe a whole ass amp of power draw to operate a battery disconnect, so why waste the switch that has the highest rating on that? Put it on #5 or #6 if you need a remote battery disconnect for your winch.

Also, you're exceeding #1 by a few watts and pretty much riding the edge of your current draw for the other three. Not a very healthy safety margin you've set up for yourself, especially given that you think the cheaper lights might not have an accurate rating. If your battery voltage drops below 14.8V, or if you turn them on when the engine isn't running, that current draw is going to increase and you'll shoot right past the ratings of those switches. Hopefully those fuses work as intended.

If you want to keep your existing layout, what you need to do is use those switches to operate relays for your lights, rather than directly powering your lights with them. That takes the load off the switches and puts it on cheap and easily replaceable relays rather than burning up the OEM stuff. I personally wouldn't put more than 75% load on any of those switches, because I don't want the hassle of possibly smoking something in the OEM harness. When I get to that point, I just run a relay instead, they're cheap and easy to install. Any somewhat respectable shop would do the same if they were wiring in a lot of aftermarket stuff, and I have no reason to believe all the lights and whatnot on OP's Bronco aren't being run by their own properly sized relays regardless. There's no indication at all that the lights and winch had anything to do with his problem, only that there is a problem and those accessories exist.

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

I run a warn winch, rigid lights (fogs) in the bumper #8 A pair of ditch lights on the mirror attachments, #3 #4, and a rigid light bar #2 All works fine for me. So not sure who did what, or how, but you can run all if done correctly.

Did you mean #1 for the winch? I only have 6 aux switches. My understanding is quality lights from a company like Rigid will draw less amps to make the same watts as cheaper lights. And I have cheaper lights, so I went conservative.

When I was researching on the forum I saw plenty of post and what they were running with no problems, but then a couple of electrical tech types posted hard numbers including the same name brand lights I was running for my ditch lights and bar light (Nilights) with the actual readings from a amperage meter and the cheaper brands use more amps to get those watts.

One of the tech guys said, depending on how long and the conditions (temp), things will run fine until they over heat, but he warned of a potential fire. And he added that just because the lights run fine, it doesn't mean they won't over heat the circuit and he added that an insurance company could use that against you if your making a claim. So I went with "better safe than sorry".

My cheap ass build with coupons and black Friday deals cost me a little over $200 for all of my lights and brackets; including a set of grill lights. I practically stole my amber fog lights for $59 total out the door including tax & shipping (for three sets, normally $60 a pair) each pair came with a set of $25 A-pillar brackets included. I used one pair of the brackets for the ditch lights (Nilights) and with some grinding and painting I repurposed one pair to connect my bar light under my bull bar between the bar and the bumper.

I'll have to take photos at night on the Moab trip this week and post, but the lights are pretty great for the price, the ditch lights, bar lights and fogs/amber lights being about $103 for those lights (with the A-pillar brackets). I spent another $55 on the fog light bracket to mount the amber lights in the Mod bumper; which made the bracket almost as much as the lights!

Add waterproof connectors from the auto parts store and the other lights and etc to get to just over $200.

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

LOL what

Why should the winch be on #1? That's ridiculous. You technically don't even need to wire the winch to the switches in the first place. All winches use a relay for power so they're not drawing that 300-400A through a switch, and battery disconnects are no different. You're looking at maybe a whole ass amp of power draw to operate a battery disconnect, so why waste the switch that has the highest rating on that? Put it on #5 or #6 if you need a remote battery disconnect for your winch.

Also, you're exceeding #1 by a few watts and pretty much riding the edge of your current draw for the other three. Not a very healthy safety margin you've set up for yourself, especially given that you think the cheaper lights might not have an accurate rating. If your battery voltage drops below 14.8V, or if you turn them on when the engine isn't running, that current draw is going to increase and you'll shoot right past the ratings of those switches. Hopefully those fuses work as intended.

If you want to keep your existing layout, what you need to do is use those switches to operate relays for your lights, rather than directly powering your lights with them. That takes the load off the switches and puts it on cheap and easily replaceable relays rather than burning up the OEM stuff. I personally wouldn't put more than 75% load on any of those switches, because I don't want the hassle of possibly smoking something in the OEM harness. When I get to that point, I just run a relay instead, they're cheap and easy to install. Any somewhat respectable shop would do the same if they were wiring in a lot of aftermarket stuff, and I have no reason to believe all the lights and whatnot on OP's Bronco aren't being run by their own properly sized relays regardless. There's no indication at all that the lights and winch had anything to do with his problem, only that there is a problem and those accessories exist.

I don't have a winch so no prob there and I used wiring harnesses with relays and fuses to wire. And I only turn on when engine is running. Your right I'm at 18 amps from a meter on the 12" bar light.

 

[Bronc’n Bronco]

No I have been waiting 5 months for Ford to buy it back since they can't send the part. Paying $1200 each month in payments.

Ask for monthly payments and a rental. Have done it for customers many times with no resistance if it is a Ford problem ( never on a Bronco. Been very happy with this product).

 

[Badland-Mansquatch-ATX]

I bought my Bronco through Lief Johnson as well. I also remember seeing 2-3 of the Saleen’s there, priced over $100,000 on the sticker. They looked great, as does this one. They told me they hire Saleen to do the mods, which matches my experience when I considers having them contract out my upgrades. This dealer handled my buying process pretty well, including the MSRP and price guarantee as I Was bumper from 2021 to 2022 model. It arrives with a list of electronic issues that turned out to be a loose computer connector. I didn’t flip out on them, but was friendly and firm about the issue. They fixed it and let me drive it a few days before closing the deal, so I found them good to work with. It’s had a couple other issues as well, but each handled with a little patience. Of course, by the time it arrived, I knew more about it than they did from YouTube and these forums. The service department was pretty good, but they are hitting the same issues as every other dealer now, hard to hire, too many quality issues to keep up.
I’m really surprised that paying this kind of premium price isn’t getting you better service from both the dealer and Saleen. Hope you’re able to resolve it.

 

[NatureBoy]

Sorry OP - hopefully it ends well.

Lol, real encouraging

 

[Rickperry]

Interesting enough, this dealer was offering a "Saleen" Bronco in March of last year:

One of the pictures they posted caught my eye:

Striping had a "SV-TR" on it which after a search is a package from a company, Xenon, which just happens to be out of Round Rock (less then 20 miles from dealer).
https://shop.teamxenon.com/pages/ford-bronco

Saleen bought a couple of badges from me, including the 24k gold plated. it was a cool surprise to see, I used to have a 08 Saleen Mustang. I never got to see what they did with the badges, thanks for sharing!

 

[bigblueboing]

I saved up for three years to buy my dream Bronco. I bought it brand new from Leif Johnson Ford in Austin Texas.

I paid $80k and after 500 miles it completely died. The battery junction box failed and burnt out. I have made zero upgrades to the vehicle and bought it from Leif Johnson as is paying $30k over sticker price.

It has been in the shop for 5 months with no timeline on when the part will become available. I have been making $1200 payments for 5 months. The best I got for a rental was a base f150 with cloth seats.

Neither Leif Johnson or Ford has done anything to show any empathy - ZERO.

Ford Legal offered a buy-back but is taking months even to offer any numbers/offers.

I will never buy a Ford again, they have gone so downhill from Corporate to the dealerships.

Such a shame since I grew up in Michigan thinking so highly of Ford as a company.

Take every added piece off before they buy it back. They are buying back a stock vehicle. All the mods are yours to sell or whatever.

 

[stickshifthappy]

Paid $30k OVER MSRP ?!

There’s one born. Every second.

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