Help me figure out why my sounds cuts off at high volumes

[broncoToBe]

I have an Audiocontrol amp, kicker speakers in the dash and some hertz woofers in kick panels. Rear pods are kickers too and the stinger tailbox sub.

I have 600hz bass blockers in the dash, but when I turn on the radio lretty loud in bass heavy songs, the sound on only the front speakers cuts off for like a second then comes back. Not both sides at the same time though, just one. What could be causing this? Cheap bass boclers? Bad ground? Bad amp? Bad speakers?

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[DJ1]

I have an Audiocontrol amp, kicker speakers in the dash and some hertz woofers in kick panels. Rear pods are kickers too and the stinger tailbox sub.

I have 600hz bass blockers in the dash, but when I turn on the radio lretty loud in bass heavy songs, the sound on only the front speakers cuts off for like a second then comes back. Not both sides at the same time though, just one. What could be causing this? Cheap bass boclers? Bad ground? Bad amp? Bad speakers?

More info would be helpful. Which AC amp and how is it wired to your kickers and Hertz in the front? Which Kickers in the dash?

 

[broncoToBe]

More info would be helpful. Which AC amp and how is it wired to your kickers and Hertz in the front? Which Kickers in the dash?

I have 47KSC404 on the front and rear pods. Hertz C165 on the kickpanels. My amp is AudioControl LC-5.1300. Bass blockers on fronr speakers are 600hz Skar. Everything connected with the PlugNPlay kit.

 

[Dubsesd]

I have a kicker key and it would do the same until I changed some forscan coding for the acm.

Not familiar with the AC amp is it dsp?

 

[broncoToBe]

I have a kicker key and it would do the same until I changed some forscan coding for the acm.

Not familiar with the AC amp is it dsp?

No dsp

 

[Dubsesd]

No dsp

In forscan I changed my fronts from speaker/tweeter to just speaker and has not cut off since. It use to cut out at like volume 18 and now I can play at 25 with no issues.

Not sure if that will work for you but you can try. I figured the stock amp was trying to compensate for the high volume so it would cut it out to save the amp.

 

[broncoToBe]

In forscan I changed my fronts from speaker/tweeter to just speaker and has not cut off since. It use to cut out at like volume 18 and now I can play at 25 with no issues.

Not sure if that will work for you but you can try. I figured the stock amp was trying to compensate for the high volume so it would cut it out to save the amp.

That seems wirth a try, did you follow a guide or something? I'm completely lost on that. Did you have an aftermarket amp and then did the forscan change, or you still have stock amp?

 

[Dubsesd]

That seems wirth a try, did you follow a guide or something? I'm completely lost on that. Did you have an aftermarket amp and then did the forscan change, or you still have stock amp?

I have an aftermarket amp.
Here is the google docs link for forscan on what you need to change. Look under base speaker configuration.


as far as learning forscan look on YouTube. Also look for @RagnarKon on YouTube he has informative videos on forscan

 

[broncoToBe]

I have an aftermarket amp.
Here is the google docs link for forscan on what you need to change. Look under base speaker configuration.


as far as learning forscan look on YouTube. Also look for @RagnarKon on YouTube he has informative videos on forscan

Can't see the google docs link

 

[Dubsesd]

Can't see the google docs link

Sorry hopefully this works.

 

[vicorjh]

radio lretty loud in bass heavy songs, the sound on only the front speakers cuts off for like a second then comes back

If what Dubseeds mentioned doesn't help, sounds like self-protection. Perhaps the power is drooping or the unit is overheating. First guess would be power.

A bass hit is going to pull a bit of current. If the input voltage droops enough it could cause instability with the amplifier behavior. I'd probably check that first.

The best way is via an oscilloscope though a volt meter may be sufficient. You'd need to watch for minimum and maximum voltages appearing at the point where power enters the amp. With suitable power and interconnect, the droop should be minimal (droop being an intermittent reduction in apparent voltage).

 

[broncoToBe]

If what Dubseeds mentioned doesn't help, sounds like self-protection. Perhaps the power is drooping or the unit is overheating. First guess would be power.

A bass hit is going to pull a bit of current. If the input voltage droops enough it could cause instability with the amplifier behavior. I'd probably check that first.

The best way is via an oscilloscope though a volt meter may be sufficient. You'd need to watch for minimum and maximum voltages appearing at the point where power enters the amp. With suitable power and interconnect, the droop should be minimal (droop being an intermittent reduction in apparent voltage).

Could that be the case even if only the front goes out? Or would the amp completely shut down for a second if voltage goes down?

 

[vicorjh]

Could that be the case even if only the front goes out? Or would the amp completely shut down for a second if voltage goes down?

You'd noted when power output is increased the problem occurs, my first diagnostic guess is the voltage rail. Different designs and tolerances can cause different results when operating outside of specified operating conditions. It is something to check and verify.

Looking at the manual, there are some diagnostic indicators that may flash during a detected fault:

Also note, from the user manual, the suggested operating parameters:

Typically, what I'd expect on droops at the amp would be noise, pops, and clicks that get worse as the power output is increased and/or the battery voltage decreases. With significant droop, dropping of channels, unit reset, or other bizarre behavior could occur. It's not easy to predict as different designs will behave in different ways.

One thing you may want to try, as well, is to disable the subwoofer channel(s) and then bring up the volume to see if the problem is still there. With the subwoofer off, the current demand will be reduced and, as a result, droop would proportionally decrease ... if occurring.

 

[broncoToBe]

You'd noted when power output is increased the problem occurs, my first diagnostic guess is the voltage rail. Different designs and tolerances can cause different results when operating outside of specified operating conditions. It is something to check and verify.

Looking at the manual, there are some diagnostic indicators that may flash during a detected fault:

Also note, from the user manual, the suggested operating parameters:

Typically, what I'd expect on droops at the amp would be noise, pops, and clicks that get worse as the power output is increased and/or the battery voltage decreases. With significant droop, dropping of channels, unit reset, or other bizarre behavior could occur. It's not easy to predict as different designs will behave in different ways.

One thing you may want to try, as well, is to disable the subwoofer channel(s) and then bring up the volume to see if the problem is still there. With the subwoofer off, the current demand will be reduced and, as a result, droop would proportionally decrease ... if occurring.

What you mentioned about the subwoofer might be a good lead. I have the gain on that cranked up to the absolute max, the amp has some lights that indicate when a channel is distorted and it never turned on for the sub so I maxed it, maybe I should lower it?

 

[DJ1]

What you mentioned about the subwoofer might be a good lead. I have the gain on that cranked up to the absolute max, the amp has some lights that indicate when a channel is distorted and it never turned on for the sub so I maxed it, maybe I should lower it?

That amp has serious power, I have the DSP version. Have you done any tuning of the amp other than maxing out the gains? With as much power as it has for the sub channel (and all the channels), you shouldn't need to have the gain way up. Are you using the channel summing to make sure you get a full signal to the sub? Can you post a picture of your amp settings?

Do you know how the PNP has the front speakers connected? You have (2) 4 ohm speakers on each channel, so I am guessing it is setup in parallel with an overall resistance of 2 ohms. Your rear channels are 4 ohm speakers. It might not like that as it is effectively a 4 channel + 1 channel amp.

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