Kicker Key 200.4 & 2023 7 speaker system question.

[Brian_B]

After some hours listening to music in my ride, I am certain that the 2 ohm dual coil kicker sub (6.75") would have been a smarter buy than the 4 ohm Kicker I bought.

I am about to swap out a 2ohm 6.5” kicker if you wanted to try it. Although I suspect it wouldn’t do what you are looking for - power is power and that would help some but isn’t a replacement for an amp.

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[Just Rob Please]

I appreciate the offer but the cost to ship +speaker is probably terrible. I'm in Southern Illinois. Are you anywhere near?

 

[Brian_B]

I appreciate the offer but the cost to ship +speaker is probably terrible. I'm in Southern Illinois. Are you anywhere near?

Nope, sorry. CA

 

[CactusToby]

I do want to update something I stated earlier in this thread. This is in regards to someone upgrading their sub speaker but using a stock Ford sub amp.

After some hours listening to music in my ride, I am certain that the 2 ohm dual coil kicker sub (6.75") would have been a smarter buy than the 4 ohm Kicker I bought. Why? The low end in the mix is much quieter and you can't adjust this on the screen. I knew this would be the case. I am a college electronics professor. So I feel like an idiot. Until I amp the crap out of it, I'll take apart the back of my Bronco and return the stock sub in the stock box. It was pretty decent in the mix. Not as powerful as I wanted, but did a much better job of filling in the bass tones than this one. It is NOT the fault of the Kicker speaker at all. It's just starved for power badly.

I'm going to upgrade my sub amp in a few months and very likely to NOT go with a Key 500.1. I'm not sure the bang for the buck is there for a DSP solution on the sub. You could save $100 and run Kicker's 46CXA4001 directly from the stock amp's input lines. (Still need power from the battery of course). And I may just go for the tailgate speaker box at that point and keep the factory sub where it sits. I have a love/hate relationship with stereo upgrades. It's hard to know when to STOP!

Thank you so much for the rundown. I spent the whole week on this with too much in my shopping cart. I wasn't sure which way to go, but your writeup simplified and cleared up a lot of questions.

I'm mostly a talk radio guy but occasionally like to crank up my 90's hip-hop or grunge to teach the new generation. I have 2023 with 7 speakers (non-B&O).

I'm thinking:
-4" dash kicker cs
-6.75" kicker cs rear Mabett pods
-Kicker Key 200.4 with plug & play
-keeping factory kick panel speaker (most say it's decent)

Question:
-since i'm upgrading, should I upgrade with the kicker cs in the kick panels?
-which 2 ohm kicker speaker can replace stock subwoofer?

 

[SDbase]

I have a similar question about kicker key with stock speakers.

My set up is similar minus CS dash speakers. I added Mabbet pods and 6.75 kicker CS but was not satisfied with the sound even after forscan. I have a kicker key 200.4 and ordered plug n play kit 11-6 (kicker key harness, sub wiring and 10 inch hideaway sub since I have the kicker key already. I have the 2022 base 6 speaker setup currently.)

How do the stock front speakers handle the kicker key 200.4? As of right now I’m planning to keep the dash and kick panels stock.

hoping that more power to the rear pods plus the sub will give me the midrange and bass I’m looking for. Sounds like the stock kick panel speakers can give some decent sound and some midrange with the kicker 200.4. I just don’t want to burn the stock speakers out if they can’t handle the amp! Talked to Joe from plug n play says that a kicker key provides less than ideal power to run a full set of aftermarket speakers which typically like 100w power per channel. Maybe the stock speakers up front will respond favorably considering the shared channel allocating only 25w per speaker?

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