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Hi. Not sure how helpful this will be, but you bumped 2x and are a Bronco owner so here I am 
30-ish years ago, I put kill switches in my 84 Bronco II and 96 Bronco (still got them). Both had a single ignition coil, so it was easy to cut the power wire to the coil, splice in extensions, route them to a secret spot in the passenger compartment to a hidden spst toggle switch. Switch off, no spark, no start.
The 6G Bronco is totally different. You need to find a "single point of failure" that requires simple 12V power. I think the best choice for a 6G Bronco kill switch is the fuel pump. It will be a bit of work - get to the fuel pump harness, cut the power supply wire, do proper splices and add on extensions, route them securely to the driver's seat area, and put in an spst switch.
Seems like a heck of a lot of work and opens the opportunity for splice failure.
Kill switch is a great idea, but if you are worried about security in a modern vehicle like the 6G Bronco the best solution IMO is the Ford perimeter security system. When vehicles had metal keys, a thief could run off with your truck easily and kill switches were a necessity. Chip keys, like Ford PATS helped. With the modern fobs it is difficult for a thief to drive off with your truck unless they have the fob.
Hope this helps, and hoping it spurs some more comments.
30-ish years ago, I put kill switches in my 84 Bronco II and 96 Bronco (still got them). Both had a single ignition coil, so it was easy to cut the power wire to the coil, splice in extensions, route them to a secret spot in the passenger compartment to a hidden spst toggle switch. Switch off, no spark, no start.
The 6G Bronco is totally different. You need to find a "single point of failure" that requires simple 12V power. I think the best choice for a 6G Bronco kill switch is the fuel pump. It will be a bit of work - get to the fuel pump harness, cut the power supply wire, do proper splices and add on extensions, route them securely to the driver's seat area, and put in an spst switch.
Seems like a heck of a lot of work and opens the opportunity for splice failure.
Kill switch is a great idea, but if you are worried about security in a modern vehicle like the 6G Bronco the best solution IMO is the Ford perimeter security system. When vehicles had metal keys, a thief could run off with your truck easily and kill switches were a necessity. Chip keys, like Ford PATS helped. With the modern fobs it is difficult for a thief to drive off with your truck unless they have the fob.
Hope this helps, and hoping it spurs some more comments.
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The only proven system is the Ravelco Anti-Theft device.
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Proven by who? How does this prevent a thief from towing your vehicle away and parting it out?The only proven system is the Ravelco Anti-Theft device.
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Research it.
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So if you had a kill switch, how do you activate it? Do you…engage it?
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How would a kill switch prevent a thief from towing your vehicle away and parting it out?
It wouldn’t, but nobody is on b6g , posting business cards, claiming a kill switch is a “proven” anti theft device. My guess would be that a kill switch is 98% as effective as the Ravelco at a fraction of the price. I can’t find any proof to say otherwise.
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Dave, I'm glad that you admitted the red herring. A kill switch, whether a proven system or a home-brewed concoction, won't prevent a vehicle from being towed and hacked for parts. That wasn't the premise of the thread. The thread was discussing kill switches.
Ravelco is a proven system. It isn't cheap. I have no affiliation with the company or the installer. I posted the image as a member of a local FB group just had it done. I thought it was a clean install and their cost was about $600.
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A lot of overthinking in this thread. I think your question is a good one, a really good idea for added safety and easily doable for an average DIYer. Good on ya!
Fuel pump is the way to go as stated above.
Use a fuse jumper on the fuel pump fuse.
Install an inline fuse on one of the leads coming from the jumper. Then install a latching switch, toggle switch or whatever switch you want hidden in some inconspicuous place.
Connect them all.
This should not take more than an hour to make the switch cabling and about the same to install/hide it. No wire cutting. Just a little soldering.
I have this on all my cars.
Three benefits.
1) I can drain the lines of fuel when I park them for any extended period. So when I go to start for the first time, I leave the fuel pump disconnected and run the starter for a bit to get everything nice and oiled up before starting the engine.
2) If someone happened to get keys or bypass the immobilizer, they aren't getting more than a few feet (yes, unless they tow it. Then they can have it and I'll bathe in the insurance check)
3) If I'm ever car jacked, I can hit the switch as I jump out and run. This is assuming I am of sound mind and have not pissed myself in fear. Caveat, the fact that most of my cars are manual is more of a deterrent than anything.
Source: I live in Chicago.
Fuel pump is the way to go as stated above.
Use a fuse jumper on the fuel pump fuse.
Install an inline fuse on one of the leads coming from the jumper. Then install a latching switch, toggle switch or whatever switch you want hidden in some inconspicuous place.
Connect them all.
This should not take more than an hour to make the switch cabling and about the same to install/hide it. No wire cutting. Just a little soldering.
I have this on all my cars.
Three benefits.
1) I can drain the lines of fuel when I park them for any extended period. So when I go to start for the first time, I leave the fuel pump disconnected and run the starter for a bit to get everything nice and oiled up before starting the engine.
2) If someone happened to get keys or bypass the immobilizer, they aren't getting more than a few feet (yes, unless they tow it. Then they can have it and I'll bathe in the insurance check)
3) If I'm ever car jacked, I can hit the switch as I jump out and run. This is assuming I am of sound mind and have not pissed myself in fear. Caveat, the fact that most of my cars are manual is more of a deterrent than anything.
Source: I live in Chicago.
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Except I don’t think the sell a fuse jumper for 30A tall format fuse…at least that I can find
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