Low power grounds

[CalvinT]

Like many on here, I need to ground some low power circuits. The Equipment installation Guide says to not use existing grounding points, but I think it's referring to high current accessories such as a winch. I know many people just use an existing ground, which is probably OK if it's not too crowded.

In the left side of the engine compartment there are two unused ground connections next to one that's being used. They're on the seam between the firewall the cowl. Does anyone have the part number for the screw Ford uses? A part number for the connector might be helpful, but it looks like it's for a fairly large wire.

Second, does anyone know of other unused ground points?

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[B22-2023]

Like many on here, I need to ground some low power circuits. The Equipment installation Guide says to not use existing grounding points, but I think it's referring to high current accessories such as a winch. I know many people just use an existing ground, which is probably OK if it's not too crowded.

In the left side of the engine compartment there are two unused ground connections next to one that's being used. They're on the seam between the firewall the cowl. Does anyone have the part number for the screw Ford uses? A part number for the connector might be helpful, but it looks like it's for a fairly large wire.

Second, does anyone know of other unused ground points?

You could back out the existing one, measure it and get the spec that way.

Or my bolt measuring tool is too bulky to get in there but this would work without removing it, or measure those open threaded holes. In fact for under $10 I’m going to throw this in my tool box.

 

[Brian_B]

If I recall, it's a m8 1.25 bolt - nothing special about it at all. ~might~ be an m10, been a bit, but it's just a standard flange-head bolt. You can use a dime store bolt with a washer as well.

All 3 of those make good ground points, just make sure you are getting clean and direct metal to metal contact.

 

[CalvinT]

You could back out the existing one, measure it and get the spec that way.

Or my bolt measuring tool is too bulky to get in there but this would work without removing it, or measure those open threaded holes. In fact for under $10 I’m going to throw this in my tool box.

The bolt appears to be threaded self tapping. It may be tapered. I think Ford uses them to save time on the production line and to assure a solid connection. I don't want to disturb it.

The unused ground points aren't threaded.

 

[B22-2023]

The bolt appears to be threaded self tapping. It may be tapered. I think Ford uses them to save time on the production line and to assure a solid connection. I don't want to disturb it.

The unused ground points aren't threaded.

‘23 WT. There is a nutsert it threads into.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Is there a common name for that type/style of connector, with the tang extending from the lug like that? I like how that is bent down to further secure the lug to the cowl bolt (we need MORE cowl bolt!).

 

[CalvinT]

Is there a common name for that type/style of connector, with the tang extending from the lug like that? I like how that is bent down to further secure the lug to the cowl bolt (we need MORE cowl bolt!).

I think they do that so it doesn't spin when the Bronco is being assembled. I like the idea.

 

[B22-2023]

I think they do that so it doesn't spin when the Bronco is being assembled. I like the idea.

I think to speed up manufacturing now, Ford actually spins the entire Bronco to screw each bolt in, but it’s 6 or one half dozen or the other.

 

[CalvinT]

You could back out the existing one, measure it and get the spec that way.

Or my bolt measuring tool is too bulky to get in there but this would work without removing it, or measure those open threaded holes. In fact for under $10 I’m going to throw this in my tool box.

The open unthreaded holes are 5.5mm. I can't get a good measurement on the bolt.

btw, the link didn't work for me.

 

[B22-2023]

The open unthreaded holes are 5.5mm. I can't get a good measurement on the bolt.

btw, the link didn't work for me.

Thanks - I edited it and here is the link.
Nut and Bolt Thread Checker, Bolt Size Finder, 28 Male/Female Thread Gauges (15 Inch & 13 Metric) Thread Checker Standard and Metric, Bolt and Nut Identifier Gauge https://a.co/d/iLmXQ1c

 

[CalvinT]

I found the bolt, or one similar. W500214S450L. It's the right size and it's a thread forming bolt. Recommended torque is 53-71 in-lb or 4.4-5.9 ft-lb.

 

[CalvinT]

Thanks - I edited it and here is the link.
Nut and Bolt Thread Checker, Bolt Size Finder, 28 Male/Female Thread Gauges (15 Inch & 13 Metric) Thread Checker Standard and Metric, Bolt and Nut Identifier Gauge https://a.co/d/iLmXQ1c

How do you create a tiny url? I see people posting them.

 

[AdamF@IAG]

The open unthreaded holes are 5.5mm. I can't get a good measurement on the bolt.

btw, the link didn't work for me.

M6x1 is the thread

 

[CalvinT]

M6x1 is the thread for the bolt. On my Bronco the unused holes are not threaded. I think the term is "smooth as a baby's bottom."

 

[Brian_B]

M6x1 is the thread for the bolt. On my Bronco the unused holes are not threaded. I think the term is "smooth as a baby's bottom."

Four options then:

Use a rivet nut - make sure you get some bare metal on metal contact on the inside surface of the body panel there, sand the paint off the inside ring of the existing holes.

Use a speed nut (I wouldn't do this for a ground)

Use a nut on the back side. Make sure you get some bare metal contact in there - sand a bit of paint off the top surface where your ground cable makes flush contact.

Use a self-tapper on the metal sheet near those holes, and leave those holes smooth as a baby's bottom -- same thing applies as using a nut, get some bare metal on metal contact where the cable hits the painted surface.

(possibly 5th option - if there's enough metal you could just tap the hole out right with a tap-n-die - I did this with a 1/4 20 on one of my vehicles, but can't remember if it was the Bronco or F150)

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