My B&O speaker upgrade

[rcbickle]

My only question is, has anyone adjusted the Lux settings in Forscan? And if so, to what? All the posts I see are for the stock radio, not the B&O like on my First Edition. Thanks in advance!!

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[Broncofly]

My only question is, has anyone adjusted the Lux settings in Forscan? And if so, to what? All the posts I see are for the stock radio, not the B&O like on my First Edition. Thanks in advance!!

About to do the 6.5 rear pods like you, wondering about the FORSCAN question as well.

BTW, thanks for the write up on the rear pods. The only change I did was in purchasing the IAG version of the pods. They look exactly like the Mabbett pods, but for $169 (the old price of the Mabbetts).

 

[rcbickle]

I actually bought this set of connectors from Ebay. It includes the connectors for the rear pods as well as for the left and right front dash speakers (with bass blockers). Suspect you could find just the rear pod connectors as well if you look. No need to do any additions - these were good to go out of the box.

2021-2022 Bronco 4" Speaker Speaker Swap Wiring Set - with 600Hz Bass Blockers | eBay

I bought these as well. Just a word to the wise on these though. The spade connectors on the positive side are not adequate. You will need to solder them on to the speaker connectors if you want to ensure that, as you are off roading, you never loose connection. At this price point I was REALLY disapponted that there were not as high quality as the ones that came with the speakers. Likely you could do just as well if you bought the $8 ones from Cruchfield.

 

[Chritaka]

About to do the 6.5 rear pods like you, wondering about the FORSCAN question as well.

BTW, thanks for the write up on the rear pods. The only change I did was in purchasing the IAG version of the pods. They look exactly like the Mabbett pods, but for $169 (the old price of the Mabbetts).

I'm also looking at Mabett/IAG or SSV and would like to know about Forscan changes that are req'd...

 

[Chritaka]

Is there a reason why so many are using the 4” PRV midrange vs a matched set across all dash speakers? Is it simply you can buy this as a single speaker vs a pair or is it better for center channel?

 

[Broncofly]

I'm also looking at Mabett/IAG or SSV and would like to know about Forscan changes that are req'd...

Haven’t found anyone locally that has the Forscan but even without it you’ll get a noticeable sound improvement. The 6.5 rear pods do make a much, much more noticeable improvement.

 

[Chritaka]

I'm also looking at Mabett/IAG or SSV and would like to know about Forscan changes that are req'd...

I was provided an answer, refer to:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/forscan-rear-speaker-eq-findings.54999/page-4#post-1930757

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...seatbelts-and-more.28489/page-32#post-1904921

 

[rcbickle]

I finished out all of the speakers except the subwoofer. Overall, without messing with the B&O settings, I am happy. A few notes:
Kick Panels - I purchased the speakers from Cruchfield. For the same price as Amazon, I was able to get the speaker connector and the speaker mount. The removal of the kick panel trim is described in other videos, but this was painless. I went slow and I used the right tools. Nothing broke. The cavity of the speakers had plenty of room for the sound mat, so once again I went a bit crazy. I also purchased foam speaker baffles since I was not going to put in any speaker fill. Not sure if it made a difference, but I did it anyway. I did have to buy screws for the mount Cruchfield provided, so a trip to the big box was required. Overall, I thought I got some more base.

 

[rcbickle]

For the two dash corner speakers, I think these with the base blockers did a lot. The speakers I bought are 3 ohm speakers (same as the ones the original poster used). This means that a 600 hz base blocker at 3 ohms will kick in at around 900 hz. It is recommended that you cut at 600 hz, so this is cutting sooner that I would like. 300 hz blocker would be cutting about 450 hz, meaning a bit more base than what is recommended. You will need to choose. I went with 300 hz. I like the sound and the highs are now very clear, but I am sure I am giving up on something. Removal of the trim is on other posts, but again, going slow and using painter’s tape to protect the dash made it go well. Have a credit card thickness trim tool. Without it, you will do damage. I set up the speakers with the base blockers from mentioned supplier on eBay, but found the speaker clips wanting. You will want to have low temp solder, flux, and a soldering iron on hand. This is not the end of the world since the original speakers have a built-in connector, so you are basically making a speaker rig like the OEM version. I again used a baffle. The speaker cavity did not have many places for the sound mat, but I managed to cover every available surface. The driver-side cavity is not as roomy as the passenger side. You will find that the baffle requires a little maneuvering. The speakers went in without modification, but you will have to do some maneuvering to get them in place. Take your time and they will go in without modification. This was actually the fastest of the sets and, to my ear, the best bang for the buck. If I did nothing else, I would do the pods and the corner dash speakers. They made the biggest difference.

 

[rcbickle]

Last I did the center speaker. There are a lot of write-ups on removing the trim and getting access. I generally found most people had a harder time with trim removal than me EXCEPT for this trim piece. I got it out, but I could see if I was not careful bad things could have happened. I again used painter’s tape to protect the trim, and it did its job, but I was very glad I did it. Don’t skip that step. Some people use some kludge for the torx bit for the screws on the accessories mount. I used a standard torx bit from a Milwaukee bit set, the bit extender (also in the Milwaukee bit set), and the Bronco tool kit ratchet. Worked great. You do have to get it at the right angle and engaged without being able to see the torx fastener, so it will take you a few minutes to get it all aligned and out. Removal of the speaker was easy. Similar to the corner dash speakers, there is not much space/surface for the sound mat, but I did what I could and installed another speaker baffle. I soldered on the speaker connector that commercial with the base blockers. I did have to unwrap the speaker wire protection a bit and spread the wires a little to get them to fit without too much strain on the wires. I again used my soldering skills to ensure no long-term issues. I also had to snip off the two Ford alignment lugs. Once they were removed the speak went in without modification. Putting back in the trim took as much care and be careful not to bend the grill excessively while you try and get the power port in place and the trim back under the dash beauty trim piece. The Accessory mount went back in faster than it came out. Overall, I think a slight improvement, but not the wow of the corner speakers and the speaker pods.

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