New Harness Components just released (SPVPARTS)

[SPVPARTS]

We just brought out a bunch of new harnesses/Adapters...

Of course you can browse the whole plug n play collection here-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...raptor-ranger-harnesses-and-connectors?page=1

But here are some new ones to take note on...

New 3 Way Harness Splitter (2 Way Harness Splitter Also Available)

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

This one has been out for a short bit, but is still pretty new... The Molex OEM Fog Splitter (For Raptor and Raptor Bronco) These allow you to put BOTH pairs of OEM fog lights on the Fog switch or Aux 1.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...-oem-fogs-combine-both-pairs-to-1-switch-pair

Double Pole OEM Fog Adapter for Raptor/Raptor Bronco with Backlight Ports.
These take ONE connection (Fog Switch or Aux 1) and split for 2 lights that have backlights.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...dapter-backlight-port-diode-dynamics-radiance

From there, you can use a single OEM Fog adapter with backlight port for a 3rd pair of lights-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...dapter-backlight-port-diode-dynamics-radiance

And our Backlight Y Harness to connect for your backlights

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details


Next we have the new line of Chain Harnesses. We have a new 4 Split with 10 Gauge wire for the bigger lights (3 Pole). We have a 6 and an 2 different 8 Splits with the 3 Pole as well. The 6 is 14 gauge. One 8 is 14 gauge and the other is HD with 10 gauge. Then we have a 6 chain with a 2 pole WP or a 2 pole DT.
All of these can plug into either out Short light bar harness (12AWG) Standard Light Bar Harness (14AWG) or HD Light Bar Harness (10AWG).
3 Pole supports backlights OR you can plug in any of our adapters to match to any light. Even our newer Crossover adapters! The crossover adapters allow you to use the 3rd wire (normally used for backlights) for a second switch. For example, one or 2 pairs of amber lights and 2 or 4 pairs of white lights... all on the same harness but with 2 different switches...

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

Here are the light bar harnesses that they would plug into. One thing to take note on. The HD Light bar harness has 10 gauge wire, a relay and 40 amp fuse. WP pins/Connectors are rated to 20 amps. If you are well over 20 amps, the 10 gauge can handle it, but the pins just where the chain and light bar harness connect would be maxed out. You will simply combine the Red, Black and white wires direct with the included heat shrink butt connectors with the HD light bar harness. The connectors on the chain to the lights are fine. They are individual. This is only where they all merge.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

Next, we have Molex 2 pole (for the Raptor OEM Fogs) adapters to WP connectors. These can plug into any of our harnesses to adapt to those-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

We also have Marker Light Adapter Harnesses. These 3 connector harnesses use the same connectors Ford used on the F-150 and Bronco Raptor Grilles. These allow plugging into any Ford Marker lights and connecting to our Marker adapter or extension (also below) for switch power. This application is mostly used for the Bronco when adding a Raptor Grille and lights-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...pin-connectors-to-switches-spv-harness-system

Next... We have our Backlight TAP Adapters. The first one here simply plugs into any of our harnesses with a 3 pole connector and ends with a 3 pole connector. So it finishes the same way it starts. However, it has a lead with a single wire to supply backlights to another adapter. Normally this would be an OEM fog adapter. An example of this would be if you had a single pair fog harness and wanted to share the backlight connection to an OEM fog adapter with backlight port. Since factory fogs only have 2 wires. This supplies the 3rd.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...onnector-adapter-with-backlight-port-tap-pair

The next version of this just supplies the backlight port from another harness-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...wp-connector-adapter-backlight-port-only-pair

The next thing is pretty exciting. This opens up the door to limitations in the past. Previously, your would have a light bar harness or rear harness or whatever and its length was what it was. Sometimes someone would want to run lights to a bed top or a chase rack and were left trying to figure out which harness was long enough, or it the wire gauge was enough for say a full rear harness which wasn't intended for a 40"' OR 50" LIGHT BAR.

So we brought out extensions....

You can now choose a 3 foot, 3 pole extension with 14 gauge wire, or a 6 foot 3 pole extension with 10 gauge wire. So if you combine a 6 foot HD extension to a HD 10 gauge light bar harness, you will have about 12 feet in length and you can easily run that to a chase rack. (Remember pin limitations).

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...e-connectors-to-lights-etc-spv-harness-system

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...e-connectors-to-lights-etc-spv-harness-system

Then we have extensions for the engine bay as well. These single pole extensions give you more room in the engine bay. For example a rear harness and a long bed truck...

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...with-single-pin-connectors-spv-harness-system


And with these extensions... remember, you can also split them for an infinite number of applications!!

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details


Remember to look through all the harness pieces in the first link, because we just mentioned individually here some of the new components!

Feel free to reach out for help building your custom setup!

SPV Parts
317/934/6778
info @SPVparts.com

Sponsored

 

[MrGreen55]

Hey @SPVPARTS quick/dumb question did you guy's find a adapter to the G harness for the rear Oem fog light switch?

 

[SPVPARTS]

Hey @SPVPARTS quick/dumb question did you guy's find a adapter to the G harness for the rear Oem fog light switch?

Kyle,

Still working on it. Sourcing the components have proven to be on the difficult side. We will have something for that, though. It is just being able to get it sourced, so it's just a matter of time.

If you want to text me your email address and last name, I can add you to my customer contact list for that item and reach out to you as soon as it's available.
You can text me at (317) 934-6778.

Thanks!
Sidney @ SPV Parts

 

[SHANUT]

We just brought out a bunch of new harnesses/Adapters...

Of course you can browse the whole plug n play collection here-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...raptor-ranger-harnesses-and-connectors?page=1

But here are some new ones to take note on...

New 3 Way Harness Splitter (2 Way Harness Splitter Also Available)

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

This one has been out for a short bit, but is still pretty new... The Molex OEM Fog Splitter (For Raptor and Raptor Bronco) These allow you to put BOTH pairs of OEM fog lights on the Fog switch or Aux 1.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...-oem-fogs-combine-both-pairs-to-1-switch-pair

Double Pole OEM Fog Adapter for Raptor/Raptor Bronco with Backlight Ports.
These take ONE connection (Fog Switch or Aux 1) and split for 2 lights that have backlights.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...dapter-backlight-port-diode-dynamics-radiance

From there, you can use a single OEM Fog adapter with backlight port for a 3rd pair of lights-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...dapter-backlight-port-diode-dynamics-radiance

And our Backlight Y Harness to connect for your backlights

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details


Next we have the new line of Chain Harnesses. We have a new 4 Split with 10 Gauge wire for the bigger lights (3 Pole). We have a 6 and an 2 different 8 Splits with the 3 Pole as well. The 6 is 14 gauge. One 8 is 14 gauge and the other is HD with 10 gauge. Then we have a 6 chain with a 2 pole WP or a 2 pole DT.
All of these can plug into either out Short light bar harness (12AWG) Standard Light Bar Harness (14AWG) or HD Light Bar Harness (10AWG).
3 Pole supports backlights OR you can plug in any of our adapters to match to any light. Even our newer Crossover adapters! The crossover adapters allow you to use the 3rd wire (normally used for backlights) for a second switch. For example, one or 2 pairs of amber lights and 2 or 4 pairs of white lights... all on the same harness but with 2 different switches...

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

Here are the light bar harnesses that they would plug into. One thing to take note on. The HD Light bar harness has 10 gauge wire, a relay and 40 amp fuse. WP pins/Connectors are rated to 20 amps. If you are well over 20 amps, the 10 gauge can handle it, but the pins just where the chain and light bar harness connect would be maxed out. You will simply combine the Red, Black and white wires direct with the included heat shrink butt connectors with the HD light bar harness. The connectors on the chain to the lights are fine. They are individual. This is only where they all merge.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

Next, we have Molex 2 pole (for the Raptor OEM Fogs) adapters to WP connectors. These can plug into any of our harnesses to adapt to those-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

We also have Marker Light Adapter Harnesses. These 3 connector harnesses use the same connectors Ford used on the F-150 and Bronco Raptor Grilles. These allow plugging into any Ford Marker lights and connecting to our Marker adapter or extension (also below) for switch power. This application is mostly used for the Bronco when adding a Raptor Grille and lights-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...pin-connectors-to-switches-spv-harness-system

Next... We have our Backlight TAP Adapters. The first one here simply plugs into any of our harnesses with a 3 pole connector and ends with a 3 pole connector. So it finishes the same way it starts. However, it has a lead with a single wire to supply backlights to another adapter. Normally this would be an OEM fog adapter. An example of this would be if you had a single pair fog harness and wanted to share the backlight connection to an OEM fog adapter with backlight port. Since factory fogs only have 2 wires. This supplies the 3rd.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...onnector-adapter-with-backlight-port-tap-pair

The next version of this just supplies the backlight port from another harness-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...wp-connector-adapter-backlight-port-only-pair

The next thing is pretty exciting. This opens up the door to limitations in the past. Previously, your would have a light bar harness or rear harness or whatever and its length was what it was. Sometimes someone would want to run lights to a bed top or a chase rack and were left trying to figure out which harness was long enough, or it the wire gauge was enough for say a full rear harness which wasn't intended for a 40"' OR 50" LIGHT BAR.

So we brought out extensions....

You can now choose a 3 foot, 3 pole extension with 14 gauge wire, or a 6 foot 3 pole extension with 10 gauge wire. So if you combine a 6 foot HD extension to a HD 10 gauge light bar harness, you will have about 12 feet in length and you can easily run that to a chase rack. (Remember pin limitations).

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...e-connectors-to-lights-etc-spv-harness-system

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...e-connectors-to-lights-etc-spv-harness-system

Then we have extensions for the engine bay as well. These single pole extensions give you more room in the engine bay. For example a rear harness and a long bed truck...

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...with-single-pin-connectors-spv-harness-system


And with these extensions... remember, you can also split them for an infinite number of applications!!

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...s-system-works-with-many-vehicles-see-details


Remember to look through all the harness pieces in the first link, because we just mentioned individually here some of the new components!

Feel free to reach out for help building your custom setup!

SPV Parts
317/934/6778
info @SPVparts.com

Do you have an inline splitter for reverse/back-up lights that allows the addition of another reverse light?

 

[SPVPARTS]

Do you have an inline splitter for reverse/back-up lights that allows the addition of another reverse light?

Yes.
Please call, text, or email me with exactly what all you are wanting to hook up and I can tell you what all you would need to get it connected.

Thanks!
Sidney @ SPV Parts
(317) 934-6778
[email protected]

 

[Mikerider]

I love a clean wiring install, cool products

 

[cbrenthus]

Very cool products, I don't have a need right now but will certainly check back when I do! I'd much rather tap in to connectors and be able to go back to completely stock than splice into wires

 

[nwGTS]

Kyle,

Still working on it. Sourcing the components have proven to be on the difficult side. We will have something for that, though. It is just being able to get it sourced, so it's just a matter of time.

If you want to text me your email address and last name, I can add you to my customer contact list for that item and reach out to you as soon as it's available.
You can text me at (317) 934-6778.

Thanks!
Sidney @ SPV Parts

Is what you're working on to connect to the replacement G harness or to connect to C424 using the existing North American harness?

Most of us need the latter, something to tap into the blue/white rear fog light wire at C424.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-factory-switch-harness.46382/post-1784494

 

[Doc TOC]

Great work by SPV. Very happy to see the connectors availability expanded. These connectors will make it easier for experienced owners.

Word of caution for the not-electronically-trained. Just because you can tap into a connector does not mean you should. Ford designed its wiring for what is there, or for the empty switches and wires, what they spec'ed. Their electrical circuit engineering allowance is lean on some of the circuits. Particularly running to the back.

Replacing one item for another generally is no problem.

Adding onto existing connectors or switches can be an expensive problem. Make sure your new current draw and duration has the proper gauge wiring. You wouldn't want to end up like this unfortunate owner.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/total-loss-🤦🏼‍♂️-engine-bay-fire-burned-down-my-bronco.72430/

 

[SPVPARTS]

Great work by SPV. Very happy to see the connectors availability expanded. These connectors will make it easier for experienced owners.

Word of caution for the not-electronically-trained. Just because you can tap into a connector does not mean you should. Ford designed its wiring for what is there, or for the empty switches and wires, what they spec'ed. Their electrical circuit engineering allowance is lean on some of the circuits. Particularly running to the back.

Replacing one item for another generally is no problem.

Adding onto existing connectors or switches can be an expensive problem. Make sure your new current draw and duration has the proper gauge wiring. You wouldn't want to end up like this unfortunate owner.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/total-loss--engine-bay-fire-burned-down-my-bronco.72430/

We are incredibly careful with our wiring setups, and we use components that are superior to most of what is available on the market anywhere else. If ever in doubt, we always encourage customers to call us so we can set them up with a safe, reliable, and plug and play solution for their wiring.

I don't believe they ever found a cause for Keith's Bronco catching fire (which is the picture you posted there), but it can definitely happen with incorrect or insufficient wiring. In fact, I have seen some horror stories on here and elsewhere of similar issues happening with a couple other vendors' wiring.
That's why it's always the best idea to give us a call, text, or email to confirm any wiring you're unsure of for your vehicle. We will always give you honest and reliable advice, erring toward the safe side rather than pushing the limits too much.

Cheers!
Sidney @ SPV Parts
(317) 934-6778
[email protected]

 

[SPVPARTS]

Very cool products, I don't have a need right now but will certainly check back when I do! I'd much rather tap in to connectors and be able to go back to completely stock than splice into wires

Yeah, that's always been my thinking as well. Because if you are like me and many out there. When it comes time to upgrade a vehicle. Its nice to quickly and easily put it back to stock for trade in or resale. Sure, there are situations where you may want to leave some things installed. Maybe you can get a little more out of it? But often times not. Most of the time you do better taking your stuff and selling it used on Ebay or Facebook than a trade in. Of course when you manually install things the old way its a cumbersome task to try to remove everything.

With plug n play stuff like this though, you simply cut some zip ties. Unplug and PULL. Then you can take with you to your next vehicle, resell, etc. We try to make it as simple as hooking up computer components or AV cables to a TV and devices. You get a new TV, unplug your cables and reconnect.

We have had many people for example go from one vehicle to a different one, or even a different brand. Take their stuff and the only thing they need to buy to make it work with the new make/model is maybe a different headlight or tail light adapter and a different bracket.
Thats the key. YOU are in control....

John

 

[SPVPARTS]

We are incredibly careful with our wiring setups, and we use components that are superior to most of what is available on the market anywhere else. If ever in doubt, we always encourage customers to call us so we can set them up with a safe, reliable, and plug and play solution for their wiring.

I don't believe they ever found a cause for Keith's Bronco catching fire (which is the picture you posted there), but it can definitely happen with incorrect or insufficient wiring. In fact, I have seen some horror stories on here and elsewhere of similar issues happening with a couple other vendors' wiring.
That's why it's always the best idea to give us a call, text, or email to confirm any wiring you're unsure of for your vehicle. We will always give you honest and reliable advice, erring toward the safe side rather than pushing the limits too much.

Cheers!
Sidney @ SPV Parts
(317) 934-6778
[email protected]

And to add to that, our harness system is probably more fool proof than anything out and even a novice doesn't need to fear they may catch their vehicle on fire with our stuff UNLESS they go OUTSIDE or MANUALLY MODIFY our harnesses. There are several reasons, and I will try to explain. Bare with me, I like to get technical sometimes... lol

First on things like our headlight adapters and tail light adapters. You can plug in to factory headlights or tail lights to access reverse triggers, running and parking lights.
Ford has internal amp limits that if they are exceeded, that circuit shuts OFF. It doesn't melt. If you are to pass that threshold, we have plug in relays that use a circuit as a trigger and not for primary power.

Here is a video-



So first, you should NEVER hook a wire DIRECTLY to a battery without a fuse. The fuse is the first line of defense. Lets say you went crazy and put the wrong gauge wire on a light that was too strong for it. What happens is the wire heats up. It gets hot and can eventually melt the rubberized insulation around it. What happens then?
Well first, if there is an inline fuse, it should blow. If the fuse blows, the light doesn't work, but there is no fire.

Ok, lets look at the next scenario. Lets say you have a fuse on there that is way too strong. Lets say you have a 30 amp fuse and really thin wire. The wire gets so hot that it melts the insulation and the power and ground touch. At that point there is a SHORT. Even a 30 amp fuse should blow. It may have already melted the wire and it may be on the breaking point of a fire. If a Fuse wasn't in line, there would definitely be a fire. Even if a fuse WERE in line, there could still be a fire if there is enough heat created where wires touched and some catalyst, like spilled oil or gas fumes, etc.

Another cause of excess heat, even with the proper wire gauge (Thickness) is a poor crimp or crimps. Many people who manually crimp wires together don't crimp them tight, or right.
When you take generic harness and cut it down, splice it together. crimp this or that. You really have no guard rails to speak of. So no boundaries. You are prone to mistakes if you don't absolutely know what you are doing.
So as Doc Toc said is correct in this application for sure. If you are cutting and splicing, and don't have experience. It can be dangerous. Just like someone trying to rewire their house, if they don't have experience.

Thats really where our harness system comes in. It's pretty much fool proof. In other words, if you don't cut anything off. You pretty much can't cause any damage. Now. I say pretty much because there are only 2 things we can't control with our harness system.
ONE, is that fact that Ford doesn't put a connector on their switch wires. YOU need to add them. Then they will plug into our harnesses. We make that easy though. We include connectors and instructions with the harnesses for your switch wires. It is a pretty easy thing to do. We also offer quick crimp on pig tails and numbered extensions with connectors already on them.
The SECOND is that some lights come with bare wires. Just like your switch wires, you may need to add the connectors, but we also include them. It's pretty straight forward.

So from there, I will get into why our system is so fool proof. First though, I want to talk about the different types of wire so you understand the difference in how our harnesses are made compared to the others out there.

The most common standard wire out there, and the type of wire most all the light companies provide in the box is PVC Automotive wire. Which is rated at 105C. That converts to 200 degrees F.
Here is a link to a spec sheet. PVC or "General Hook UP" wire has a soft rubbery insulation.

LINK-
ul1015_ss.pdf (iewc.com)


Our harnesses are manufactured using PTFE Wire. PTFE is an industrial grade coating used mostly in industrial applications, where demand, heat, corrosion, etc are high.
PTFE is rated at 200C which is equal to 392 degrees F. That's almost DOUBLE standard wire.
Here are a couple reference links for those wanting to see more on this type of wire.

LINKS-
Polytetrafluoroethylene - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics

Polytetrafluoroetheylene (PTFE) / Teflon® Insulation Material for Wire and Cable | Galaxy (galaxywire.com)

So, now that you understand our wire quality and the fact that it can withstand so much heat. It really takes the worry out for the most part. Here is why. Let's say you really overload the circuit. You put too small wire gauge on too large light/s. It creates heat right? Well you can pretty much bet that the fuse will blow FAR before that insulation reaches almost 400 degrees Freiheit! You won't have melted wires.

Next, lets talk about how they are set up. For the most part, just like you can't plug a USB cable into a wall plug because the shape is different. Our harness system is set up to only connect in a certain way. You can't plug our harness into a battery terminal without a fuse. Since there are connectors on there. They only plug into an aux wire. You would need to go outside the box and cut off a connector and splice on a ring terminal to do that and again, if you only plug things in (with the exception of attaching connectors to switch wires or lights) you can't make that mistake.
If you want to connect to the battery, we have a relay adapter that has rings on it... but... it also has a built in fuse.

So as long as you match up the colors (red to red, white to white, black to black) and plug things in as they naturally can plug in. You pretty much are safe.
Now, that doesn't mean you don't need to get wire that is thick enough (Gauge) to handle your lights. You do. However, if you make that mistake, you would blow a fuse, not melt wire. In fact, you will melt a connector first.

So, I am not saying don't reach out. Please do. We want to help you pick the right combination and kits first. Of course if you know what you need, that's fine too. We just take most of the worry and danger out buy having an engineered plug n play setup like this.

To demonstrate some more how tough the materials are with our harnesses vs the ones you get generic with lights and other kits. For those who haven't seen our heat comparison test video... check it out below. It's pretty cool. Also, please Thumbs up and Subscribe. We have a lot of new videos and installs coming.



John

 

[SPVPARTS]

Is what you're working on to connect to the replacement G harness or to connect to C424 using the existing North American harness?

Most of us need the latter, something to tap into the blue/white rear fog light wire at C424.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-factory-switch-harness.46382/post-1784494

Ok. So we have suppliers that can get pretty much anything. However, we ran up on a dead end on the CONNECTOR that has the port for the rear fog. Evidently Ford produced that one alone and it isn't available for sale in any way, anywhere. Unlike the Molex connectors throughout.

That said, the PIN that goes in the empty socket on the connector plugged into the one that has the live wire, we should be able to get and Ford sells them in 5 packs.
So what we are left with would be a kit that has a harness with a PIN on the one end you just insert into the existing connector and it will run over and plug into our short harness. Quick, simple and inexpensive.

For those who heard of drilling something out. That true. In all those connectors, if you unplug the 2 from each other and look inside. There is a white/yellow cap. It is a LOCK for the pins. When it is pushed down, it locks all pins from going in or out. You just pull up on it with a pick or needle nose, slide the pin in and push it back down to lock.

John

 

[Doc TOC]

We are incredibly careful with our wiring setups, and we use components that are superior to most of what is available on the market anywhere else. If ever in doubt, we always encourage customers to call us so we can set them up with a safe, reliable, and plug and play solution for their wiring.

Just to be certain, by comments were not aimed at, or meant to imply or impugn, anything about the quality of SPV product or the caliber of support offered to its customers.

My son (EE that designs military and marine power supplies) has used your connectors on his truck and thinks they are convenient and great. (I'm sure our endorsement and $7 will get you a cup of coffee.)

As to the flaming Bronco, Keith stated several times a cause was never determined. (Upon advice of council?) He did admit to doing mods to his rig, but conspicuously never discussed what they all were and who did them. The BD fog light mod was evident from the photo. But without calling in Columbo, I think we are left with speculation. And with a spectacular, eye catching photo. Which I exploited to make a cautionary point.

I think it is great SPV offers support to help the over exuberant enthusiast to think through their electrical mods.

In another era when I was in college I worked for a high-fidelity auto sound system shop. They did Rolls, Mercedes, Lambos, BMWs, Caddys, etc. I have seen the melted wires and a few fires (post event) caused by bozo shops that didn't understand amperage, gauge runs, and standby current. (Yeah, turning off the engine does not cut off the battery power.) If you are now on Google looking that up, you need some help from a professional. There is nothing wrong about asking for help. There is something wrong if you mess up because you were a bone head.

 

[SPVPARTS]

Just to be certain, by comments were not aimed at, or meant to imply or impugn, anything about the quality of SPV product or the caliber of support offered to its customers.

My son (EE that designs military and marine power supplies) has used your connectors on his truck and thinks they are convenient and great. (I'm sure our endorsement and $7 will get you a cup of coffee.)

As to the flaming Bronco, Keith stated several times a cause was never determined. (Upon advice of council?) He did admit to doing mods to his rig, but conspicuously never discussed what they all were and who did them. The BD fog light mod was evident from the photo. But without calling in Columbo, I think we are left with speculation. And with a spectacular, eye catching photo. Which I exploited to make a cautionary point.

I think it is great SPV offers support to help the over exuberant enthusiast to think through their electrical mods.

In another era when I was in college I worked for a high-fidelity auto sound system shop. They did Rolls, Mercedes, Lambos, BMWs, Caddys, etc. I have seen the melted wires and a few fires (post event) caused by bozo shops that didn't understand amperage, gauge runs, and standby current. (Yeah, turning off the engine does not cut off the battery power.) If you are now on Google looking that up, you need some help from a professional. There is nothing wrong about asking for help. There is something wrong if you mess up because you were a bone head.

Oh, none taken. I was just validating your points. Great discussion. Great conversation starter. They are all good things for people to know. I just thought it was a great thing to build on. So thank you!

And since you brought up shops... its actually ironic. Most of the time I have heard of our connectors being cut off, it was the shops.. the "professionals".

Its funny. The people that are experts seem to be so set in their ways, they can't think different. They get stuck in the same patterns. Cut this, cut that, splice this, splice that. We do more tech support for shops, than individuals.
I think that's because individuals take the time. They read the directions. They watch the videos.
Shops call and say, "I cant get this to work." We say did you look at Page X where it says to plug this into that? They say, "No, we cut that off. We didn't think we needed that." LOL

John

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