New Harness Components just released (SPVPARTS)

[Doc TOC]

@SPVPARTS ... Just saw your subsequent post. Great stuff. Wish some other vendors were as helpful as you folks are.

It's evident you put the engineering effort into making sure your product is as good as one can get.
You deserve this community's $upport.

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[nwGTS]

Ok. So we have suppliers that can get pretty much anything. However, we ran up on a dead end on the CONNECTOR that has the port for the rear fog. Evidently Ford produced that one alone and it isn't available for sale in any way, anywhere. Unlike the Molex connectors throughout.

That said, the PIN that goes in the empty socket on the connector plugged into the one that has the live wire, we should be able to get and Ford sells them in 5 packs.
So what we are left with would be a kit that has a harness with a PIN on the one end you just insert into the existing connector and it will run over and plug into our short harness. Quick, simple and inexpensive.

For those who heard of drilling something out. That true. In all those connectors, if you unplug the 2 from each other and look inside. There is a white/yellow cap. It is a LOCK for the pins. When it is pushed down, it locks all pins from going in or out. You just pull up on it with a pick or needle nose, slide the pin in and push it back down to lock.

John

Great info on the pin lock. Let us know when you have this available. Personally, i'd tap the connector and run the pinned lead to a single weather proof connector on the other end. Then I can run a longer switch wire connected to that to anywhere I'd put lights activated by the rear fog switch... bumper, roof rack, or spare tire/tail gate. And then get the ground locally where the lights are.

 

[SPVPARTS]

Great info on the pin lock. Let us know when you have this available. Personally, i'd tap the connector and run the pinned lead to a single weather proof connector on the other end. Then I can run a longer switch wire connected to that to anywhere I'd put lights activated by the rear fog switch... bumper, roof rack, or spare tire/tail gate. And then get the ground locally where the lights are.

Thats exactly how it would be done. Here is an example I made for the original poster on the thread about that.
It goes to an inline Male/Female. This way it can also plug in-between Our harnesses. For example, our short rear harness and a tail light adapter.

 

[SPVPARTS]

@SPVPARTS ... Just saw your subsequent post. Great stuff. Wish some other vendors were as helpful as you folks are.

It's evident you put the engineering effort into making sure your product is as good as one can get.
You deserve this community's $upport.

Thanks, that is much appreciated. I have always been of the mindset of quality over quantity.
Sure, we can make stuff super cheap and scrape the bottom of the barrel for slinging out as much junk as possible and have much higher margins. However. I personally have always lived by the principals that if you do right the first time, you get more repeat business and following in the long run. I am also a consumer advocate. We want people to have the best stuff that they don't require a "Pro" to install. Not that they can't or shouldn't in some situations. However, if you provide straight forward solutions, you don't need to blindly rely on someone else.

They gives self confidence to people. A level of satisfaction in doing projects themselves.. in their garage... on a weekend with their kids or parents. The thing that builds memories. That personal experience. You don't get that if things are so complicated you are required to take it to an installer.

Then the other side. Like so many of us, we may just be too busy. So we need to take it to someone else to install. If that be the case, man.. I would feel a lot better having a stranger install something that is a straight forward solution, than have them manually drill holes and cut and splice things that I had no idea they did and have issues later. If you can see how things should be done and hire someone to do them that straight forward way.. It cuts out the unknown.

So in any case, its a win win...

John

 

[bniknar]

@SPVPARTS I have some third-party marker lights that are designed to be powered on whenever the vehicle is on - and so the wiring harness comes prebuilt with a fuse tap (taps into fuse 25 which is for the backup camera). Well, I want the marker lights on only when the headlights are on. I've read elsewhere on this forum that tapping into a headlamp fuse (#100) doesn't work, that I instead need to use a Headlight Adapter (like yours). The question: do I need to cut off the fuse tap from the marker light harness? How do I connect the harness to your adapter?

Sorry for the basic question, this is new to me and an opportunity to learn from this mini project....

 

[flip]

Here's the service pigtail for the light C436.

C424 is a WDP 600153619A01A 0.64 And yes, it was a biatch to get my guy at Ford to get me a sample but I talked him into putting it into the system as a replacement. The back tab on my samples is only the 3 cavity version instead of 6 so the WDP part may not be 100% correct but should be in the series ballpark. From what I remember of the conversation, Gerald said this is basically a captive Ford part and they didn't sell to the wholesale market. That was a couple years ago so things may have changed. Guys were breaking these off when removing the bumper and what I can tell, the plastic is somewhat brittle. For the life of me I can't understand what is wrong with staying with Yazaki, Molex, TE, Delphi readily available connection solutions. At some point the miniaturization is going to bite them in the ass more than we're already seeing now on the service side.

C410 is your standard fare Molex MX150.

 

[SPVPARTS]

@SPVPARTS I have some third-party marker lights that are designed to be powered on whenever the vehicle is on - and so the wiring harness comes prebuilt with a fuse tap (taps into fuse 25 which is for the backup camera). Well, I want the marker lights on only when the headlights are on. I've read elsewhere on this forum that tapping into a headlamp fuse (#100) doesn't work, that I instead need to use a Headlight Adapter (like yours). The question: do I need to cut off the fuse tap from the marker light harness? How do I connect the harness to your adapter?

Sorry for the basic question, this is new to me and an opportunity to learn from this mini project....

Not a problem at all.
So yes. If you want a quick and SIMPLE solution, all you need is the headlight adapter here-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...kers-spv-harness-system-works-w-many-vehicles

And then yes, you would simply take the ONE wire that goes to the fuse tap and cut off the fuse tap. You would then have a single bare wire. You can then add ONE single Pole Male connector to it here from this-

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...with-spv-parts-harness-system-or-switch-wires

And if you are intimidated putting the pins on a wire. Here is a simple crimp on pin with wire. You simply insert your wire that was cut from the fuse tap and use crimping pliers in the installed heat shrink tube but connector. You can then heat and shrink the seal. You slide on the male connector (You would still need the connector pack if you get the pinned wire too) and then plug it into our headlight adapters connector.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...ack-pin-pig-tail-packs?variant=45660407660776

This video may also help make sense of it.



And this one will help make sense of crimping a pin or tube on a wire-



You can also always call us for help if you need it.

317/934/6778
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