NEW RECOMENDATIONS ON BD NON SQUATCH

Mattwings

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You are probably much better off with SQ and selling the take off 35s. The gearing will be off, probably not horrible, but a noticeable drop off in performance. Gears and lift will be at least $2k and you still won’t have the HD front axle, plus the warranty as others mentioned. People say the JK/JL with 35s are OK, I wouldn’t call the on road performanc acceptable (no experience with that set up off road), but you might?





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the poacher

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Hi Guys! I need some ideas on what rims and lift I will need on my BD non squatch order (Area 51). I don't have a build date yet on mine but would like to have plenty of time to choose the aftermarket upgrades I would like and order them ahead of time to get them installed as soon as I get my Bronco.

I would ideally like to go with 35" tires (Nitto Grappler or Similar) W / 20" rims. What size lift should I get? Offset? Rim Width? I have no clue. I will be doing a fender delete which I think will look pretty nice. In reference to off-roading I will be doing... it wont be much! Pavement princess or possible dirt roads is about it.

Thanks in advance!
With 20" rims, you will need a fairly good lift, minimum 3"-4" I would think. But, no one really knows until someone, maybe you, tries it and lets us know the results. As for offset, +35 seems to be the common thought, and width 8.5".
 

Rubisquatch

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I would definitely not go with 20” wheels personally. Unless you’re going for that urban, non off road look. Vehicles like Bronco and Jeep look, and operate much better with 17” rims to show the rubber, handling, ride quality and allow for flexibility off road (although I know you said you’re not doing to much of that). Still, I would advise 17” wheels, 18“ max but if you like 20s, then get what you want As it’s your ride.
 

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Initially I was planning on going this route but after looking at regearing, potentially upgrading to the 210 up front, adding an air locker, and upgrading tires would likely cost more than the increase for the Sasquatch package. This is why I’ve decided to go back to Code 99 and wait for BD ManSquatch.
 

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You could probably just do the basic 1" spacer lift front/rear. Price should be about $100 for parts and $400 for the labor to install if you don't do it yourself. Get an alignment after you lift it and install the new wheels and tires because it'll be all out of whack when you're done. I like BFG KO2's. They're AT tires but ride and look great. 35x12.5R20's are typically more aggressive M/T tires that cost more $$, so look for 315/60R20 tires.

I have 33's on 20's for my daily driving, but putting together a set of 17" beadlock 35's for when I go crawling.
8r1QuWs.jpg

AcUugHp.jpg
 
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You could probably just do the basic 1" spacer lift front/rear. Price should be about $100 for parts and $400 for the labor to install if you don't do it yourself. Get an alignment after you lift it and install the new wheels and tires because it'll be all out of whack when you're done. I like BFG KO2's. They're AT tires but ride and look great. 35x12.5R20's are typically more aggressive M/T tires that cost more $$, so look for 315/60R20 tires.

I have 33's on 20's for my daily driving, but putting together a set of 17" beadlock 35's for when I go crawling.
8r1QuWs.jpg

AcUugHp.jpg
You could probably just do the basic 1" spacer lift front/rear. Price should be about $100 for parts and $400 for the labor to install if you don't do it yourself. Get an alignment after you lift it and install the new wheels and tires because it'll be all out of whack when you're done. I like BFG KO2's. They're AT tires but ride and look great. 35x12.5R20's are typically more aggressive M/T tires that cost more $$, so look for 315/60R20 tires.

I have 33's on 20's for my daily driving, but putting together a set of 17" beadlock 35's for when I go crawling.
8r1QuWs.jpg

AcUugHp.jpg
Thank you!
 

mrock

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Unless you want your rig to look like a pavement queen, I would stay away from the 20"
 

mpeugeot

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The BD comes with the same gearing (4.46) as the automatic Badlands. It has better gearing then the automatic Base/BB/OBX. The Base/BB/BD trims with manual transmissions all have 4.46 gearing also. So you might not need to regear with the BD and 35's.
It's unlikely that you would need to re-gear with the 35's on a 4.46 Automatic, mostly because the torque converter will likely be a factor until at least 2000 RPM (3 MPH in 4L). Even with a torque converter lockup at 1500 RPM, the speed is approximately 2 MPH in 4L. Sure, re-gearing wouldn't hurt, but with an automatic below the lockup RPM, it's less of a big deal.

The 5% difference in RPM between 35's with the 4.7 and 35's with the 4.46 is not going to change the outcome much. It's the difference of a 64.33:1 crawl ratio with 4.46's and 67.79:1 with the 4.70's. I don't see a re-gearing being worth it. Even the OBX's 4.27 rear diff with the advanced 4x4 still gets you a 61.50:1 crawl ratio.

4.27's at 5 MPH = 3048 RPM on 35's, 3233 RPM on 33's, and 3334 RPM on 32's

4.46's at 5 MPH = 3184 RPM on 35's, 3376 RPM on 33's, and 3482 RPM on 32's

4.70's at 5 MPH = 3355 RPM on 35's, 3558 RPM on 33's, and 3669 RPM on 32's

To put that in perspective a little more, the advanced 4x4 transfer case ratio vs the standard 4x4 transfer case ratio is a bigger factor than the gears. For instance, which is the better rock crawler, the 4.7 gears with the standard 4x4 transfer case or the 4.27 gears with the advanced 4x4 transfer case (now I know that you cannot option a Bronco with 4.7 gears and a standard transfer case - it's just an example). The 4.27 gears with the advanced 4x4 transfer case results in a 61.50:1 crawl ratio and the 4.7 gears with the standard transfer case gets you a 60.26 crawl ratio.

If you really want a Bronco for crawling, you should be configuring a 2.3 manual with the advanced 4x4. It has a 94.75:1 crawl ratio (5 MPH = 4689 RPM on 35's, 4973 RPM on 33's, and 5128 RPM on 32's), because that's a significant change.
 
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It's unlikely that you would need to re-gear with the 35's on a 4.46 Automatic, mostly because the torque converter will likely be a factor until at least 2000 RPM (3 MPH in 4L). Even with a torque converter lockup at 1500 RPM, the speed is approximately 2 MPH in 4L. Sure, re-gearing wouldn't hurt, but with an automatic below the lockup RPM, it's less of a big deal.

The 5% difference in RPM between 35's with the 4.7 and 35's with the 4.46 is not going to change the outcome much. It's the difference of a 64.33:1 crawl ratio with 4.46's and 67.79:1 with the 4.70's. I don't see a re-gearing being worth it. Even the OBX's 4.27 rear diff with the advanced 4x4 still gets you a 61.50:1 crawl ratio.

4.27's at 5 MPH = 3048 RPM on 35's, 3233 RPM on 33's, and 3334 RPM on 32's

4.46's at 5 MPH = 3184 RPM on 35's, 3376 RPM on 33's, and 3482 RPM on 32's

4.70's at 5 MPH = 3355 RPM on 35's, 3558 RPM on 33's, and 3669 RPM on 32's

To put that in perspective a little more, the advanced 4x4 transfer case ratio vs the standard 4x4 transfer case ratio is a bigger factor than the gears. For instance, which is the better rock crawler, the 4.7 gears with the standard 4x4 transfer case or the 4.27 gears with the advanced 4x4 transfer case (now I know that you cannot option a Bronco with 4.7 gears and a standard transfer case - it's just an example). The 4.27 gears with the advanced 4x4 transfer case results in a 61.50:1 crawl ratio and the 4.7 gears with the standard transfer case gets you a 60.26 crawl ratio.

If you really want a Bronco for crawling, you should be configuring a 2.3 manual with the advanced 4x4. It has a 94.75:1 crawl ratio (5 MPH = 4689 RPM on 35's, 4973 RPM on 33's, and 5128 RPM on 32's), because that's a significant change.
Thanks!!
 

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