No Ragrets- which mod do you wish you hadn’t?

[Tex]

I bought the smooth rail from them and not the picatinny rail.. Thanks for the input..!

Shouldn't make a difference whether it's a smooth or slotted pic rail, the concept is the same. The slots are machined into an identical blank rail so it's not like the smooth rail adds some kind of extra dimension that forces you to slide the mount on. I can't think of a single mount that requires sliding on from the end of a rail, because that would mean the mount design isn't grabbing the rail correctly. Not sure what you're using, but places like amazon and alibaba are full of things that don't make any sense because the people that made them don't understand the things they're making. Try loosening the clamp more and hook the solid side on the rail, then rotate it down into place and tighten the clamp. In some cases where the mount was made by incompetent idiots, the movable clamp needs to be completely removed in order to get it over the rail, and then you can tighten it on. Those are rare these days because nobody liked them and they're holdovers from the early 90's where people were figuring out what to do with the weird newfangled mounting system. In no situation should you ever have to slide a mount across the rail from the end. If that's the case, take that mount and throw it into the trash where stupid things belong because there are so many better mounts out there. The rail isn't the problem, it should never need disassembled to slide something on, it's either the mounts or the technique you're using that's giving you problems.

Speaking of better mounts, I'm really confused as to why Archetype chose the old school pic rail as their only option and never offered mlok or keymod. They're certainly better solutions than bolting a cheese grater to your dash.

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[C6ZZGT]

The lower mounts on the one I have will hit the hood before you can get past the secondary latch, but even if the hood cleared those mounts, the angle of the cables would prevent the hood from opening more than maybe halfway regardless. Even if the risers mounted on the very edge of the windshield frame, the hood is still quite a bit wider, so the risers angle inward as they're going up and get in the way of the hood. Last thing you want to do is get complacent and scrape the paint off the hood because you forgot they were there. This pic might make it a little more obvious...

So even if the bottom mounts were kicked out further to clear the hood, it would still hit the cable not long after. The turnbuckle and QD pins are pretty much a necessity if you want to access an air compressor or winch under the hood, or if you only intend to install them when the trail gets tight. You'll also want to keep the cables tight, otherwise they'll vibrate in the wind at speed. They don't offer 100% protection either, the edge of the windshield frame is likely going to get scraped, but a lot less likely if you have a roof rack though.

Thank you,I now understand how they work.

 

[Bschurr]

I've only had my Bronco for a few weeks. Based on reading all the posts about rocks scratching up the paint on the doors from being kicked up by the Sas tires, I ordered the IAG front mudflaps only and put them on yesterday. I'm trying to get used to it and give myself some time to get used to the aesthetics, but it's honestly bothering the SH*T out of me. I just don't like the way they look. I'm weighing the aesthetic qualities vs. the risk of my paint getting scratched. Not sure what I'll do.

You can use PPF on the bottom of the doors & rocker panels or perhaps some vinyl in these areas for protection instead of the mud flaps if they bother you that much…

 

[Dover157]

Does it make a difference with the stock rear speakers too, or only new upgraded rear speakers?

It made a small difference but not much as the factory base speakers are junk. I replaced all six with kicker (don’t remember which series) and added base filters to the four small ones. Definitely added clarity to the vocals mids and highs. The 6” component speakers in the kick panel are still very bass anemic but better than factory.

 

[redone17]

It made a small difference but not much as the factory base speakers are junk. I replaced all six with kicker (don’t remember which series) and added base filters to the four small ones. Definitely added clarity to the vocals mids and highs. The 6” component speakers in the kick panel are still very bass anemic but better than factory.

You don’t need filters on the rear set.

 

[Dover157]

Do you have link for the obd adapter and softtware?

Just search for “forscan” I went with the adapter they recommended on Amazon. IMO it’s worth the extra cost for the one without the switch.

 

[Dover157]

You don’t need filters on the rear set.

Probably not but when I bought them crutchfield had a good sale on a 4 pack so I went ahead and put them in.

 

[redone17]

Probably not but when I bought them crutchfield had a good sale on a 4 pack so I went ahead and put them in.

I had a set in at first too. Fall of 2021 there wasn’t a lot of info out there and Crutchfield sold me 4 as well.

 

[Lucky Nut]

I've only had my Bronco for a few weeks. Based on reading all the posts about rocks scratching up the paint on the doors from being kicked up by the Sas tires, I ordered the IAG front mudflaps only and put them on yesterday. I'm trying to get used to it and give myself some time to get used to the aesthetics, but it's honestly bothering the SH*T out of me. I just don't like the way they look. I'm weighing the aesthetic qualities vs. the risk of my paint getting scratched. Not sure what I'll do.

I refused to put flaps on mine. Hated the look. Picked up a couple small dings, but honestly, the Goodyears stop throwing heavily at around 10k miles. My opinion would probably be very different if I spent a lot of time on gravel.

 

[KABQ]

I've only had my Bronco for a few weeks. Based on reading all the posts about rocks scratching up the paint on the doors from being kicked up by the Sas tires, I ordered the IAG front mudflaps only and put them on yesterday. I'm trying to get used to it and give myself some time to get used to the aesthetics, but it's honestly bothering the SH*T out of me. I just don't like the way they look. I'm weighing the aesthetic qualities vs. the risk of my paint getting scratched. Not sure what I'll do.

I only get the occasional "ping" with the stock Goodyears and I don't even have fender flares...

 

[Beach_Bum]

I only get the occasional "ping" with the stock Goodyears and I don't even have fender flares paint...

FIFY

 

[KABQ]

FIFY

2500ish miles to Minnesota and back almost made me put the flares back on, but honestly adding rock rails (not steps) made a bigger difference than flairs (wooooo!) and mudflaps combined.

 

[geargeek]

I like all of my mods so far - mostly thanks to lots of good advice from pouring over the bronco6g forums.

 

[TTUHoopsFans]

It made a small difference but not much as the factory base speakers are junk. I replaced all six with kicker (don’t remember which series) and added base filters to the four small ones. Definitely added clarity to the vocals mids and highs. The 6” component speakers in the kick panel are still very bass anemic but better than factory.

Can you please send me the FORSCAN settings for improving the stock rear speakers? I have FORSCAN so I figured it’s worth a try even if the improvement is minor. Thanks!

 

[Dover157]

Can you please send me the FORSCAN settings for improving the stock rear speakers? I have FORSCAN so I figured it’s worth a try even if the improvement is minor. Thanks!

I don’t remember them off hand. There is a thread about forscan mods with a list of setting changes here on the forum

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