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OEM Sub Enclosure

vicorjh

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Should I rubber-mount (rubber washers) the enclosure back into the cargo area
This is what I did using sorbothane top-hat style bushings/washers at each of the mounting locations. This is in addition to CLD application and stuffing the quarter panels with an acoustic treatment. Basically floating the enclosure to avoid hard on hard contact.

Be aware that there is not a lot of free space available behind the trim panel. Some jiggering of any non-oem amplifier mounted in the same space may be required.

For the OEM enclosure, I took a slightly different approach than most and first focused on increasing the rigidity of the plastics. The plastic is thin and resonant. This was accomplished using an epoxy mixed with hollow glass spheres which was applied to the interior.

The port was sealed using the same epoxy mixture. An appropriate driver was selected that would work reasonably well within the enclosure volume while also avoiding over excursion. WinISD can get you close.

It was a bunch of work but turned out pretty good. Sympathetic vibration was greatly reduced overall.

Some details can be found here:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/jl-audio-8w3v3-4-in-a-modified-oe-sub-enclosure.78805/
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kvec

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I did both dynomat and poly fill. I also, put dynomat on the inside of the outer panel.
325856698_1570254386721233_2019432319385967547_n.jpg
Did you plug the port? I had to on mine. Once I upgraded the woofer, I started getting a lot of port noise.
 

Tacnav#1

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Did you plug the port? I had to on mine. Once I upgraded the woofer, I started getting a lot of port noise.
Yeah, I did have to plug the port.
 

Brian_B

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Next time I have the rear end apart I plan to plug mine - I didn’t and it gets really boomy at particular frequencies
 

Ninjak

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Thanks for the tips.

What about the dash speaker locations. I yanked a speaker, and it's just empty and hollow underneath. Is there anything that can be done in those locations to improve the sound / acoustics?
I have a Badlands and I did all speakers sans the sub. I plan to do that later.

I went with Alpines in the Kick location, with the component down low, and the tweeter in the upper speaker location. I had a B&O system, I am still using the stock amp for everything and it sounds great. I have S40's in the rear speaker pods.

I do think I may go with replacing the amps later. My dynmat and poly fill stopped the sub-rattle, but it sounds muddy compared to the rest of the system.
 

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Area51BS

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I just purchased a Helix V Eight Mk2 8ch DSP amp. And a Rockford P3 shallow 10. Enclosure will be fiberglass on the rear door shaped after the front fender lines and contours. Wood box will be used first to determine if I want sealed or ported before the glass one. Will post all info once I start the install after the holidays. Used to be in the audio business. Should be fun to do this.
 

Area51BS

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Thanks for the tips.

What about the dash speaker locations. I yanked a speaker, and it's just empty and hollow underneath. Is there anything that can be done in those locations to improve the sound / acoustics?
Just put some sound absorbing foam or poly fill back there
 

Area51BS

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Ultimately you would want to avoid the plastic enclosure. There is too much give in the material. Dynamat will help as it adds mass to a moving panel which helps it move less/slower. The polyfill packed loosely makes the speaker behave like it’s in a larger enclosure. All are improvements but not ideal. The port noise is caused by upgrading to a larger sub and power with too small a port for new driver/power combo.
 

Docindahouze

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How are y’all sealing the port?
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