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Stinger 12” tailgate Sub or 8” Kicker Sub (enclosure)

BroncoVegas19

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Just wondering what would be a better install/a bang for my buck/ sound quality

when it comes to these two options.
At face value I understand that the
12 inch stinger sub is larger, but does it sound better than the 8 inch kicker sub?

I’m trying to decide if I want to go with what seems to be the easier of the both install
(Kicker 8” sub into the dummy enclosure)

Or get the (stinger 12 inch tailgate sub) which looks like there will be some drilling, wire, splicing, and running more wires.
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BAD.LANDS

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Just wondering what would be a better install/a bang for my buck/ sound quality

when it comes to these two options.
At face value I understand that the
12 inch stinger sub is larger, but does it sound better than the 8 inch kicker sub?

I’m trying to decide if I want to go with what seems to be the easier of the both install
(Kicker 8” sub into the dummy enclosure)

Or get the (stinger 12 inch tailgate sub) which looks like there will be some drilling, wire, splicing, and running more wires.
I opted for the Kicker 10” hideaway installed on the tailgate in much the same way as the stinger. I went this direction bc I personally didn’t need all the bass that a 12” can provide plus the extra expense of another dedicated amp (although in hindsight I could have gone with single 5 or 6 channel amp and done it that way). The stinger was more expensive as well.

if you’re going to use a custom enclosure using a separate sub (versus a powered sub like the hideaway) I’d go with the stinger 12”. It will move more air providing deeper bass sound and you can lower the bass if needed. The hideaway I installed was much smaller.
 

Ixr

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I did the stinger as well as changing every speaker and amping the speakers and sub.

Pro is this sounds very good.

con is that it is in no way as simple of a install as people make it out to be.

I had no experience with doing any kind of audio installations though. The speakers were pretty damn easy to change, except the kick panels(pretty much driver side only) were a pita. I also used mabbet speaker pods for the rears. Doing the amps required most interior trim to be removed and running wires front to back. The stinger sub and drilling into the tailgate was nerve racking and I had one of the supplied bolts shear doing the install with no rivet setter method.

Sorry for long post, but going with the stringer(or any tailgate sub) as well as replacing all speakers and amping everything is obviously going to sound the best, but require the larger investment and more work.

There are a lot of youtube videos that can help you understand the scope of the job.

If money wasn't a issue I would 100% have a professional shop do this.
 

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CASM920

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I did the 8” Kicker Hideaway under the rear seats. Hits hard enough for me but the key is the location. I tried it in the back but it was too subdued.
 
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BroncoVegas19

BroncoVegas19

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I opted for the Kicker 10” hideaway installed on the tailgate in much the same way as the stinger. I went this direction bc I personally didn’t need all the bass that a 12” can provide plus the extra expense of another dedicated amp (although in hindsight I could have gone with single 5 or 6 channel amp and done it that way). The stinger was more expensive as well.

if you’re going to use a custom enclosure using a separate sub (versus a powered sub like the hideaway) I’d go with the stinger 12”. It will move more air providing deeper bass sound and you can lower the bass if needed. The hideaway I installed was much smaller.
Can you post a picture of your set up?
Would like to see how it turned out for you.??
I’m looking for ideas
 
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BroncoVegas19

BroncoVegas19

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I did the stinger as well as changing every speaker and amping the speakers and sub.

Pro is this sounds very good.

con is that it is in no way as simple of a install as people make it out to be.

I had no experience with doing any kind of audio installations though. The speakers were pretty damn easy to change, except the kick panels(pretty much driver side only) were a pita. I also used mabbet speaker pods for the rears. Doing the amps required most interior trim to be removed and running wires front to back. The stinger sub and drilling into the tailgate was nerve racking and I had one of the supplied bolts shear doing the install with no rivet setter method.

Sorry for long post, but going with the stringer(or any tailgate sub) as well as replacing all speakers and amping everything is obviously going to sound the best, but require the larger investment and more work.

There are a lot of youtube videos that can help you understand the scope of the job.

If money wasn't a issue I would 100% have a professional shop do this.
Thank you for the feedback.
The stinger Sub Drilling and wire complications is definitely something I’m not looking forward to doing myself.
But it sounds like it really is worth considering having someone else (professional) do it for me.

Appreciate the info you left
 

KirchTX

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I’ve been shopping for the stinger box myself but haven’t bought it yet.

I put in a kicker 6.75” sub in the OEM spot (I have the 2023 sub delete “package”) and it helps but now I’ve gone down the audio rabbit hole.

It seems like they’re coming out with a new one that upgrades the sub to the new AudioControl line. Supposedly it’s better than the Phoenix sub.
 

1st 75th ranger

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Just wondering what would be a better install/a bang for my buck/ sound quality

when it comes to these two options.
At face value I understand that the
12 inch stinger sub is larger, but does it sound better than the 8 inch kicker sub?

I’m trying to decide if I want to go with what seems to be the easier of the both install
(Kicker 8” sub into the dummy enclosure)

Or get the (stinger 12 inch tailgate sub) which looks like there will be some drilling, wire, splicing, and running more wires.
i went with "mti acoustic" 10" pro kicker enclosure and sub package
12" did not give me the punch i wanted ...maybe ill change out to 2 10"s soon lol
 

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WillinMA

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Having gone down the audio rabbit hole and incrementally upgrading, if you go right to something that’s 10/12 with a dedicated amp then you’ll save the time of doing it twice! Ha!! I first upgraded the sub in the stock location ( same logic of the easiest thing to try), then realized the trim panel rattles a ton with a better sub, had to take it off and add a bunch of sound deadener to the trim panel etc - then after a little while thought it just wasn’t good enough. I also ended up getting the tailgate sub, yes the install is more to do , but at least you only do it once!!
 

BAD.LANDS

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Can you post a picture of your set up?
Would like to see how it turned out for you.??
I’m looking for ideas
Here’s my set up. Worked out well for the type of sound I’m looking for. There was some rattling in the door handle inside the gate but some gorilla tape to take up the gap and some poly fill did the trick. Here a pic of the amp hidden in the rear quarter as well.
Ford Bronco Stinger 12” tailgate Sub or 8” Kicker Sub (enclosure) IMG_2100
Ford Bronco Stinger 12” tailgate Sub or 8” Kicker Sub (enclosure) IMG_1977
 
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BroncoVegas19

BroncoVegas19

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I’ve been shopping for the stinger box myself but haven’t bought it yet.

I put in a kicker 6.75” sub in the OEM spot (I have the 2023 sub delete “package”) and it helps but now I’ve gone down the audio rabbit hole.

It seems like they’re coming out with a new one that upgrades the sub to the new AudioControl line. Supposedly it’s better than the Phoenix sub.
just wondering if you ever added the new stigner sub with updated A.C sub??

i think im going to go down this route. but i just wanted to get some feedback on the sound/Bass quality of the SUB.
 

indio22

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I have the stinger. It rocks! Install is easy!

Ford Bronco Stinger 12” tailgate Sub or 8” Kicker Sub (enclosure) IMG_1977
Is that Stinger enclosure ported or sealed? How much would you say it impacts cargo space? I've got a 2-door and so can use all the space I can get.
 

Bmadda

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Is that Stinger enclosure ported or sealed? How much would you say it impacts cargo space? I've got a 2-door and so can use all the space I can get.
It ends up being flush w/the side the latch is on (DR side) more or less. There's no extra holes in the enclosure (of course a hole saw could fix that)
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