Planning a trip to Moab. Which armor to add next?

[WhiskeyCity]

Rear bumper seems to be the most damaged part of the Bronco in Moab. Snacktime is right, bring extra zip ties to re-hang your license plate on your spare after a boulder yeets it to the trail when you come off an obstacle.

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[dgorsett]

I saw this that fits in my budget:
https://www.asfir.com/gear-box-skid-plate-599661.html

Anyone have any experience with this one? It's aluminum and fits with OEM skids.

Be sure you get the right one. The one you linked is for those with sta bar disconnect, which your Black Diamond should not have. I have a BB and got the ASFIR. I like it, doesn't drop down any more than it has to, most others do. It has sunken fasteners that seem to work real well. I would have preferred steel, but couldn't find one I liked.

Opinion: The rear diff is cast iron with a decent cover, pick your line and all should be well. Any skid you get will reduce clearance. I have a 2.3 so don't have them, but the K braces: They seem unneeded and if they get mangled a bit so what? Again, any skid for these would further reduce clearance.

 

[Ironiguana]

Rear bumper seems to be the most damaged part of the Bronco in Moab. Snacktime is right, bring extra zip ties to re-hang your license plate on your spare after a boulder yeets it to the trail when you come off an obstacle.

I have this thing:
https://bodyarmor4x4.com/products/5136-backbone-hitch-skid

Do you think it will help at all or get in the way?

 

[dgorsett]

I have this thing:
https://bodyarmor4x4.com/products/5136-backbone-hitch-skid

Do you think it will help at all or get in the way?

I have one too, and modified it for a HiLift mount.

Yes and yes. It will help and it will get in the way, but it will slide off rocks without vehicle damage.

 

[RC Bronco]

@SS Bronco has beat his LOD skid pretty good and it's definitely a decent product for the price. If you go Talon pm me if you want my $50 off code.

Keep an eye on your rear bumper, mine is hammered. Be prepared to glue/screw/wire tie your license plate on!

The license plate mount or whatever you want to call it is a joke of a part. A water crossing, not even that deep, ripped mine clear off. Took the bolts, the wiring, and every single one of the plastic clips

 

[DefNotBuddyLee]

Armor All. JK...see the other thread going on about that.
I can't remember if the factory skids had a gas tank skid. If not, that would be #1. Like @Lcubed said, if you don't have rock sliders or steps, that would be the next spot I would protect. Otherwise cross member skids since you have the v6 and auto.
Fins doesn't really have anything crazy that comes to mind that your factory skids would not protect against on the underside as long as you use some good lines. Mostly high approach/departure angle stuff that could cause some bumper scuffs.

 

[Pseudoko]

Sorry getting caught up. Everyone offered good advice on products. So no need to add to that part of the conversation.

I’d say the most important thing is bringing friends that know what they’re doing so you can help each other out.

 

[Jer]

Transmission or Rear bumper would be my choice. Transmission skid because a stick can take out the pan. 2nd item is the rear bumper, if you wheel you will slowly kill it.

Agree with this and exactly the route I went, including the bumper gettting torn up slowly

 

[Tricky Mike]

I'm thinking rear differential.

That should be the very last thing you add. Ideally never, it just costs clearance. It takes decades of wheeling to wear through a diff housing. A thicker diff cover on the other hand isn't a terrible idea, but nobody seems to be having issues with the stock ones either. It's not like the fiberglass one I had on an explorer 8.8 that a stick took out....

Transmission or Rear bumper would be my choice. Transmission skid because a stick can take out the pan. 2nd item is the rear bumper, if you wheel you will slowly kill it.

Agreed on both. My tow hooks saved a lot of direct hits but my rear bumper is still taking a beating. And a trans skid can help you slide off boulders that would otherwise get stuck in between the engine and tcase skids.

 

[swooshdave]

I was going to start with Fins and Things and go from there.

I was there in June and did both Fins and Hells. Front license plate no longer is up and down. I don't recall dragging on the bottom. The trick is to go over very slow and don't let the suspension compress when going over obstacles. I may have touched on the trans cross member and probably the rear shock mount. If you're hitting a lot you're not doing it right. It sounds like you are Squached so you will have enough clearance for those two trails.

Note that if you do Hells Revenge don’t take the exit unless you are prepared for an extremely difficult adventure.

 

[sportcoupe]

Oil pan (it's plastic, not covered)

I assume you mean transmission oil pan. The engine oil pan is covered by factory skid plate.

 

[Cygnusx1]

I have the transmission, rear shock and support bar skids from Asfir. Also the steel stabiilizer bar that provides additional support for the rear skid. Did Moab with that setup in my 2 door badlands sas and everything was fine. I would put the differential skid as last after you have done all of the above. Frankly, your rear shock skids and gas tank skids are what hits the most.

 

[Xjeepowner]

I got the JCR transmission skid plate that covers the cross bars, that makes them much stronger and it covers it very well, they are reasonably priced as well.

 

[jzweedyk]

Bigger tires and you won't hit.

 

[Ironiguana]

I got the JCR transmission skid plate that covers the cross bars, that makes them much stronger and it covers it very well, they are reasonably priced as well.

Unfortunately, it's not compatible with factory skids. That raises price significantly.

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