Question on Winch Setup

[sts90]

I am going to have the Ford Performance winch kit installed on my Bronco at a local off-road shop. I do not have the aux switches in my Bronco. I do have the WARN 62132 Power Interrupt Kit from a previous Jeep but the dealership threw away the switch when it was installed as my Jeep had aux switches. What switch can I use to have it located under the hood or is it easy to have the switch run into the cab? Or will the off-road shop have a preference for something like this? Thanks.

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[604Bronco]

You should be able to do both. Under the hood seems more like a pain vs. easy access on/off inside the cab.

When I considered a winch the shop recommended to have it always “live” vs having a switch, which seemed dumb/unsafe but opinions seem to vary online - as with most things.

Mounting a switch under the hood will be the easiest/cheapest option though. As long as they use a suitable switch that can withstand water/dirt it should be fine.

 

[Brian_B]

What switch can I use to have it located under the hood or is it easy to have the switch run into the cab?

Lots of options. You can run the switch any darn place you would like it. And there are hundreds/thousands of options to choose from depending on what you like. Talk to your installer. Going in the cab means it will need to go through the firewall, but the Bronco has pre-run wiring (even without the factory Aux Switches) that can be used for this.

If you are leaving it under the hood (or anywhere outside the cab for that matter), as @604Bronco says make sure it's water/dirt resistant.

A few options - the brand isn't necessarily specific, mostly just showing the style of switch

This is the current popular automotive in-cab option. It has a backlight, and lights up brighter when it's "On". There are waterproof versions you could use under the hood.
https://www.nilight.com/products/7pin-dpdt-on-off-momentary-rocker-switch-blue

Old school basic toggle
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-18-Heavy-Duty-Electrical/dp/B00004WLKC

A fancier version of the old school design that's waterproof with backlighting
https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Toggle-Illuminated-Lighted-Waterproof/dp/B087CV1PGK

An old school version that looks like an ejection seat control
https://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Automotive-PL-SW26R-Performance-Anodized/dp/B004PL5T3S

A bit more modern switch style
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Control-Off-Road-Vehicle-Warranty/dp/B08TBZ23C1

A popular style of auxiliary panel (this one has 6 different switches)
https://www.amazon.com/Auxbeam-Automatic-Dimmable-Universal-Electronic/dp/B08J6MJD4N

Can ask your installer what they recommend or have on hand as well. I could keep going with options for a long time

 

[sts90]

the Bronco has pre-run wiring (even without the factory Aux Switches) that can be used for this.

Where is this, so I can talk with my installer about this option? Thanks

 

[Brian_B]

Where is this, so I can talk with my installer about this option? Thanks

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...tches-wiring-diagram-video-discussions.13485/

You won't have the aux switches, but all broncos have the B-E wires pre-run. They aren't big enough to run a winch directly, but more than big enough to drive a relay.

 

[sts90]

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...tches-wiring-diagram-video-discussions.13485/

You won't have the aux switches, but all broncos have the B-E wires pre-run. They aren't big enough to run a winch directly, but more than big enough to drive a relay.

Are the enough to run a light if I decide add one to each spot by mirror?

 

[Brian_B]

Are the enough to run a light if I decide add one to each spot by mirror?

Depending on the light - yeah most likely. Most LED lights no problem.

 

[JediMcMuffin]

Are the enough to run a light if I decide add one to each spot by mirror?

the B-E wires are all 16ga, so probably don't run lights that cross 10 amps off of those. i think we're all scratching our head as to why the one at the roof line wasn't 14ga and directly home run

the aux wires however are gauges that match their amperage

 

[Brian_B]

the B-E wires are all 16ga, so probably don't run lights that cross 10 amps off of those.

Yup.

Most LED lights don't come close to that though.

Just an example - if you wanted a Diode Dynamics SS3 Max (one of the brighter ditch lights you can get - I just happened to have a spec sheet for it). Those are 3A each. As a ditch light setup, you might run them both off the same switch, so 6A total. Well under 10A.

http://images.diodedynamics.com/doc...Stage_Series_3in_Worklight_Pod_Info_Guide.pdf

If you wanted a laser light, like the BDXL, those are 6.5A each - so there you may run into issues trying to run a pair. Same with old school halogens. Similarly with an entire light bar -- it all just comes back to amps.

I totally agree about the D wire, I don't know why they ran a 16ga up to the roof - makes no sense, can't run much of a light bar off that.

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