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- #80
Hey,
There would be no difference in functionality. The removeable rubber is short enough that there should be little to no sailing in the wind.
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- #81
I really like the look of these mudflaps and I'd love to support an Alberta company but the removable part leaves too much behind to be damaged when off road. [dragon's den] For that reason, I'm out. [dragon's den]
- Thread starter
- #82
Thanks! For any serious off roading I would remove them entirely, which actually wouldn't take very long. There's basically one size/type of fastener you'd be dealing with. You could remove the mud flap, and the bar it's attached to, leaving the frame mounts in place.
Disclaimer: I would be concerned about constantly removing and re-installing the rear. On the plastic rear bumper, the top is secured using self tapping screws, without a backing plate (no access inside the bumper). There's a chance the plastic could be stripped. If that happens you'd have to install a larger screw, or some other solution.
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Thank you! Ordered through https://www.sharptruck.com/, they still have US stock!
I will say their branded "BRONCO" versions are more expensive than some of the discount dealership (https://www.fordpartsonsale.com/) prices ($422 vs $342 for fronts).
I have a feeling when more distributors gets there hands on these products and there is more competition the blank and unbranded plate versions will become less expensive.
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- #84
Thank you for your support! Let us know how you like them.
I've also passed on that pricing info, thanks. I'm not sure why there's such a big difference between them.
I received the mud flaps today and had a chance to install them.
Installation instructions are pretty well done and whoever was in charge of the choosing the hardware should get an award! Nylon washers to separate the lock washers and nuts to prevent galvanic corrosion between the (black oxide stainless?) lock washers and nuts is surprisingly well thought out. Also if the hardware is stainless it should be advertised, that's a huge plus I never found mentioned!
What is less clear to me is the design of the mud flaps, now that I have had the chance to see and feel them in person I question if they can handle rocky terrain. I am hoping to hear your prospective on how these were designed to accommodate off road driving.
Clearance
The mounting system is largely a plastic base (upper) with a removable heavy rubber flap(lower). The plastic upper hangs 3 inches(ish) below the rock slider (without the lower), if that catches (say heading down a rock ledge) the flap system does not have a safe failure mode (plastic push rivets that pop out).
In the pic blow you can see trail rash on the front of the rails, this is where the upper hangs below the rock rail 3 inches. Its not a high scrape area, but it only takes 1 hit.
If someone were to leave the lower portion on, I am curious if the rubber has enough pliability to deform over small obstacles. Its SO thick and heavy I would be concerned it may transfer stress to the plastic upper. It looks like a must to remove when off-roading.
If they sang, I would guess the plastic upper will crack before the 3 metal mounting points rip out of the sheet metal. In that instance would a user would have to purchase a whole new front pair? I don't see those listed individually. If this was the only con and I could replace that part for a reasonable cost (Thule does this the best IMO) its no big deal. If it snags and costs $350 for a new pair that's probably a deal breaker for most.
Offset
The offset seems to exist so that removable lower feature can exist, there is plenty of clearance lock to lock on the 35s up front. The offset isn't as tight to the body lines like it is on other removable truck models (AT4), was there a constraint for the Bronco for some reason? The placement of the offset just seems a little odd to me as it creates the clearance issue posted above.
Summary
I am excited to hear more about these design and maybe learn something from the engineering perspective. Right now these mud flaps seem to be targeting customers that want a durable product that will last a lifetime but will rarely see rocky terrain where clearance could be an issue.
Cheers!
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- #86
Hi, I usually lurk here but this is the most outrageous shit I've ever seen. Anyone who pays 300$ for a 2 pieces of fucking plastic I just want to reach thru my monitor and slap you for being so stupid. Mudflaps for my RAV4 was only 50$ for a set of 4. What the fuck is wrong with you people. Save your fucking money. It doesn't even look good! So pretty much you have bad taste and you are a sucker. Anyways, I hope everyone who didn't buy one had a great day!
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Lots of good points here, but took a seriously wrong turn on presentation though.
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price seems beyond ridiculous to me too. You know what they say, there's one born every minute.
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- #89
I just keep imagining the chrome sillouette of a naked women when I think if mud flaps 
- Thread starter
- #90
I appreciate your detailed and thoughtful feedback.
The fasteners are black oxide stainless steel (we ship fasteners from Canada to California to have this done). Looks like the instructions just say "SS". I'll try to get that info added to our website.
I wonder if there is anything that can survive being sandwiched between the rock slider and a rock? There's a reason the rock slider is made out of steel. That said, it's certainly something to look into. A flexible material that isn't too floppy that can be folded in half and not break or derform.What is less clear to me is the design of the mud flaps, now that I have had the chance to see and feel them in person I question if they can handle rocky terrain. I am hoping to hear your prospective on how these were designed to accommodate off road driving.
Clearance
The mounting system is largely a plastic base (upper) with a removable heavy rubber flap(lower). The plastic upper hangs 3 inches(ish) below the rock slider (without the lower), if that catches (say heading down a rock ledge) the flap system does not have a safe failure mode (plastic push rivets that pop out).
In the pic blow you can see trail rash on the front of the rails, this is where the upper hangs below the rock rail 3 inches. Its not a high scrape area, but it only takes 1 hit.
If someone were to leave the lower portion on, I am curious if the rubber has enough pliability to deform over small obstacles. Its SO thick and heavy I would be concerned it may transfer stress to the plastic upper. It looks like a must to remove when off-roading.
You make a valid and important point. Even if you remove the rubber, you may still smash the nylon offset in certain off road driving situations. If you plan to do some serious off-roading, I would remove them entirely. As previously mentioned, you can remove the mud flap and bar, leaving the frame mounted brackets in place. See that post for some caveats.
We can supply individual replacement parts.
With the rear height, I think it had to do with:Offset
The offset seems to exist so that removable lower feature can exist, there is plenty of clearance lock to lock on the 35s up front. The offset isn't as tight to the body lines like it is on other removable truck models (AT4), was there a constraint for the Bronco for some reason? The placement of the offset just seems a little odd to me as it creates the clearance issue posted above.
Summary
I am excited to hear more about these design and maybe learn something from the engineering perspective. Right now these mud flaps seem to be targeting customers that want a durable product that will last a lifetime but will rarely see rocky terrain where clearance could be an issue.
Cheers!
1. Balancing appearance. The front was mounted lower than usual out of necessity to clear the rock rail. In order to try to balance this (maybe I was overthinking it), I moved the rear down a little also. If you draw a line from the front offset to the rear offset, they should match the body lines pretty closely.
White line roughly follows body line:
Rear at original height:
Rear moved up approximately 1 inch:
2. I also tried to retain the tapered top outer corner, that jogs in. Maybe it would look fine without?
3. Height off the ground. If I move the mud flap up in the rear, would the shorter rubber be too short, and the longer rubber we have too long? I tried to find the right balance. But I'm not saying I got it right.
I had a look at the CAD files and it looks like we could move the rear up 1 inch (max). I will pass this info on, and add it to our list of things to test out. It would be a fairly easy change if it looks better.
Thanks again for your feedback.
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