Replace Sasquatch with Method 703 Offset question.

[broncorik]

Here you go but mine has no poke at +35

I used a level from the apex of the flare and measured to the outmost point of the sidewall...and it was exactly 5mm inward. That is with a plus 35, so that means the factory SAS wheel with a factory Goodyear is exactly even with the flare (at plus 30). I am not a Ford engineer, but I assume that there is a reason they chose positive offsets and lining up the OEM wheels/tires with the outmost edges of the flares. It could be Federal regulations or appearance or whatever, but I just chose to try to keep mine as close to the original point as I could. I figured if I ever lose a wheel bearing (or tie rod or rack) or have some other suspension or brake issue Ford at least won't have a loophole to deny a warranty based on offset (an unlikely denial, probably, but I didn't want to have that even be a thing). Check out #2:

https://www.lesschwab.com/article/what-is-wheel-offset.html

And:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QQFnoECAYQBg&usg=AOvVaw0UoiIxeLbK6V_TNHLNK_tN

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[evgenyvasenev]

I used a level from the apex of the flare and measured to the outmost point of the sidewall...and it was exactly 5mm inward. That is with a plus 35, so that means the factory SAS wheel with a factory Goodyear is exactly even with the flare (at plus 30). I am not a Ford engineer, but I assume that there is a reason they chose positive offsets and lining up the OEM wheels/tires with the outmost edges of the flares. It could be Federal regulations or appearance or whatever, but I just chose to try to keep mine as close to the original point as I could. I figured if I everose a wheel bearing or have some other issue Ford at least work be able to even have a loophole to deny a warranty based on offset (unlikely, probably, but I didn't want to have that even be a thing). Check out #2:

https://www.lesschwab.com/article/what-is-wheel-offset.html

And:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QQFnoECAYQBg&usg=AOvVaw0UoiIxeLbK6V_TNHLNK_tN

Thanks! Now I have another issue. Do I like 703 or 705?

 

[broncorik]

Thanks! Now I have another issue. Do I like 703 or 705?

I know I went back and forth on that one. Although this link is for ATVs, check it out...very good description of what nasty things offset can do:

https://utvunderground.com/forum/in...heel-offset-and-suspension-performance.18329/

The general rule of thumb is that taller tires and wider tires (especially with more offset than intended) can increase scrub...and put a lot of stress on components (and cause poor handling, especially off-road). The main culprits are taller/larger tires, offset, and lift...the favorite things many of us like to do!

 

[evgenyvasenev]

I know I went back and forth on that one. Although this link is for ATVs, check it out...very good description of what nasty things offset can do:

https://utvunderground.com/forum/in...heel-offset-and-suspension-performance.18329/

The general rule of thumb is that taller tires and wider tires (especially with more offset than intended) can increase scrub...and put a lot of stress on components (and cause poor handling, especially off-road). The main culprits are taller/larger tires, offset, and lift...the favorite things many of us like to do!

I am thinking of replacing stock GY SQ with KO2 35/12.5/17. They are just slightly bigger. I don't think they will add those problems. What do you think?

 

[broncorik]

I am thinking of replacing stock GY SQ with KO2 35/12.5/17. They are just slightly bigger. I don't think they will add those problems. What do you think?

At zero offset?

 

[evgenyvasenev]

At zero offset?

Most likely 35, as I want to have it as close to default as possible.

 

[JBowles]

Here's a little more accurate(35 KOs are closer to 34.5 than 35) comparison with the 0 offset

 

[evgenyvasenev]

Here's a little more accurate(35 KOs are closer to 34.5 than 35) comparison with the 0 offset

If it's really 34.5 and not 35 with +35 It's almost even!

 

[broncorik]

At zero offset?

If you go wider overall tire a zero offset will give you more clearance on the inside bits...but a taller or wider tire with different offset than OEM will change handling characteristics.Tons of folks run even 37s with (IMHO) waaaay too much negative offset (think bro Jeeps) and will swear up and down that they have never had any issues (until they do). From a mechanic standpoint I'd recommend anyone that does not intend to change any suspension or steering components to compensate for a change in scrub to try to stick with as close to OEM as possible. I realize bigger tires look cooler and can provide more ground clearance, but when even one change is made it does make a difference overall. Even with a stock tire on a zero offset, that moves the OEM intended scrub almost 1.2 inches outward...which changes steering feel. Most people who go bigger or with more offset probably won't notice (or won't care or will vigorously defend their choice), but going bigger should be done so only if the owner is aware of the potential issues and if he or she is ok with the possible outcome. I can say that in the garage there are FAR more customers whose issues stem directly from lifting their cars and adding larger tires/offset than their are customers who leave things stock. Some of the best alignment machines can't even get some of the crazier builds close to ideal angles for streetabiiity. But the short answer to your question is you probably won't even notice a slightly larger tire in a zero offset unless you really try.

 

[broncorik]

That is a super helpful calculator for an overall idea of where the new tire will live. The tougher calculation is scrub axis.

 

[evgenyvasenev]

If you go wider overall tire a zero offset will give you more clearance on the inside bits...but a taller or wider tire with different offset than OEM will change handling characteristics.Tons of folks run even 37s with (IMHO) waaaay too much negative offset (think bro Jeeps) and will swear up and down that they have never had any issues (until they do). From a mechanic standpoint I'd recommend anyone that does not intend to change any suspension or steering components to compensate for a change in scrub to try to stick with as close to OEM as possible. I realize bigger tires look cooler and can provide more ground clearance, but when even one change is made it does make a difference overall. Even with a stock tire on a zero offset, that moves the OEM intended scrub almost 1.2 inches outward...which changes steering feel. Most people who go bigger or with more offset probably won't notice (or won't care or will vigorously defend their choice), but going bigger should be done so only if the owner is aware of the potential issues and if he or she is ok with the possible outcome. I can say that in the garage there are FAR more customers whose issues stem directly from lifting their cars and adding larger tires/offset than their are customers who leave things stock. Some of the best alignment machines can't even get some of the crazier builds close to ideal angles for streetabiiity. But the short answer to your question is you probably won't even notice a slightly larger tire in a zero offset unless you really try.

I think 35/12.5/17 with +35 is pretty much close to a stock SQ GY tire. No? Especially if KO2 is 34.5 and not 35?

 

[broncorik]

I think 35/12.5/17 with +35 is pretty much close to a stock SQ GY tire. No? Especially if KO2 is 34.5 and not 35?

The bigger question is where does whatever tire you go with live in relation to your steering components...specifically, where did it move the scrub radius to (IF you go with zero offset). Are you going with zero?

 

[evgenyvasenev]

The bigger question is where does whatever tire you go with live in relation to your steering components...specifically, where did it move the scrub radius to (IF you go with zero offset). Are you going with zero?

Probably with 35 as I want to keep it as close to the defaults as possible. Should I consider 0?

 

[ATLBronco75]

I have the +35 offset and they are perfect for non-sas flares. Zero Offset is the wrong offset for Bronco as far as front steering geometry goes. Can you get away with it? Yeah sure but why sacrifice your steering geometry?

 

[evgenyvasenev]

I have the +35 offset and they are perfect for non-sas flares. Zero Offset is the wrong offset for Bronco as far as front steering geometry goes. Can you get away with it? Yeah sure but why sacrifice your steering geometry?

What about SAS? I am talking about SAS and thinking about +35

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