Mine is SAS and I opted for +35 to closely match the +30 OEM SAS wheel. If you go with zero, your happiness will depend on if your tire being 1.2 inches farther out on each side is ok with you. For me, it wasn't...so I went with my tires being 5mm inside the SAS flare (and keeping my steering geometry as close as possible to OEM). I wish Method made a hub-centic +30 wheel for Broncos, but they do not. I had some custom hub spacers made, even though the Methods seemed to be fine with the lug-centric design, just because it makes it easier to line things up in precarious situations rather than having the lugs pull the wheel on center. Maybe it is because I am getting older or because I try to spend less time wrenching but I lean more towards function versus form these days. As a kid I went through a phase of stuffing huge "meats" (fat tires) on the rear of my muscle cars and "pizza cutters" (skinny tires) up front...and it drove my dad (spent his adult life working for GM in engineering) nuts. He lectured me more times than I could count about alignment being screwed up, crappy handling, stress on drivetrain, etc. etc. but I went about my business and broke things/lived with crappy handling until I figured out the concept of how sensitive OEM things are to modifications. My muscle car these days is more like this stance...the meats are still there but the axles were shortened so the meats don't stick out UNDER the quarters...and the front tires are wide enough to actually grip the road...and the front suspension is adjustable enough to actually hold proper alignment to steer/stop...with our Broncos, we can only go so far with OEM components before bigger tires and lifts skew whatever those components were meant to do. There are folks with mad fab skills and loads of money who will be able to create lifted beasts with 40s, but most mere mortals won't go that route due to structural or financial limitations.
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