Synthetic winch rope demystified

[Bikeric]

I’ve seen videos of it breaking, it drops to the ground with minimal snap back compared to steel.

You beat me to it. Steel cables spring in opposing directions after breaking.
Synthetic rope just falls to the ground with minimal (next to zero) whip back.
“Kinetic” rope is different and not what we’re discussing here.

I will only use Synthetic rope myself. I’ve broken 3 steel wire ropes and 1 synthetic in the past, and I know which rope I prefer.

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[Bronco Buster Wayne]

With a lot of people new to the offroad world via Ford offering the bronco I thought it may be a good idea to post some facts about the use of synthetic winch rope. It is overall the best choice for recreational 4x4's and does not have to break the bank.


Why use synthetic rope?

Two reasons, safety and weight savings. If you have ever picked up a winch you know they are heavy items and our vehicles only weigh 5,000lbs, having one (or two) winches attached adds a relatively large percentage of weight. Using a lightweight rope and fairlead reduces the weight by tens of pounds. Safety, well one should not ever be in the path of danger, however in the haste of recovery most newbies will enter into the danger zone without even thinking about it. If there is a failure at tension the flying mass of a syn rope is way less dangerous than the mass of a steel cable coming your way.


Historically the only real downside to syn rope was cost. Many manufactures will charge you $300 or more to buy their winch with the "upgrade". I really wish they would offer the winch without any kind of rope or fairlead, talk about cost savings! The good news is you can get a syn rope for less than $100, if you are willing to learn a few things.

Amazon.com: X-BULL SK75 3/8" x 100’Dyneema Synthetic Winch Rope 23,809 Lbs : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Ucreative Aluminum Hawse Fairlead for 8000-13000 LBs Winch 10" (254mm) Mount Glossy Silver : Automotive


The key to DIY with syn rope is knowing how to work with the cable and putting on the ends, or splicing, that you prefer to run.

To make an eye you do not need special tools, but they sure do help. A sharp knife, wire, tape, and a pointy object is really all that is required to splice. I suggest you buy Dyneema, which is a name brand, due to not all HMPE being created equal, however if a company puts a rating on their product this can usually be trusted. In short, syn rope works like a Chinese finger trap. The center is hollow, and the stranded fiber bundles squeeze toward the center when under longitudinal forces.


HOW TO SPLICE- 3 ways

Deep bury- This is the simplest and probably the one you would use on the trail. I would say 'quick and dirty' but the dirty part does not apply. The only real downside is the locking point can slip while not under load conditions. This would fall into the maintenace category.

How I SPLICE ROPE! Either on the tracks or at home! - YouTube



Brummel

This is a locking splice that does not require any additional effort other than routing the rope into itself in a specific way. The brummel splice will not slip however, the downside is you lose 5-10% of the strength at that point. This is very acceptable but not optimal.

Brummel lock-splice with one side fixed - YouTube


Whip stitch

This one you just insert the end into the middle of the rope and put in a whip stitch to hold it. It does not slip in a no-load situation and no strength is lost.

Dyneema Eye Splice Demonstration - YouTube

Dyneema Lock Stitch Demonstration - YouTube


As you can see working with syn cable can be very easy. I would suggest when going the cost effective route you inspect the splices. Two things to remember are to taper the end of the bury and make sure you have enough of the end buried. Exceedingly simple. As with most things in life you do not have to have the fancy stuff to get 'er done, however when you do get to a point the margins may matter to you. There is a whole world of high dollar recovery gear out there to enjoy. I would say start with soft shackles and quality attachment points anything above that is just personal preference.



More about general recovery safety:

This video goes over a case study of a fatality and what type of gear that should be used. No affiliation, he just does a great job explaining the situation. This case was a pull rope but the same stored energy applies to a winch recovery.

Breaking down the Arizona Fatal offroad recovery - YouTube

Fantastic video! BIG eye opener for me. I was not aware of most of these tips!!

 

[Sitruc_btb]

Good writeup. I would also add downside of rope is that it must be replaced periodically due to hidden rot, especially due to UV exposure. Steel cable will last forever in dry environments with zero maintenance. Rope is also less durable over rocks and such, so sometimes not ideal for pulling stuff out of the way (trees, etc) or when scraping ground/rocks is unavoidable. Climate and application is a consideration.

Right. I think ths biggest "con" for synthetic rope, is abrasion. Steel can handle anything, but the synth rope is more susceptible to abrasion, fraying.

 

[Dickzip]

First things first!
if the recovery gear (synthetic rope in this case) does not have a label…don’t Buy it. Quality manufactures want you to be safe using their gear and to know their ratings.
A label should be firmly attached to the gear.
The most important information to consider when buying recovery gear is rating. You may see all sorts of ratings…
Minimum breaking strength (mbs) is the rating you’re looking for. Minimum tensile strength (MTS) is also sometimes used and acceptable. We use these ratings because we want to know the lowest TESTED breaking point of recovery gear. I don’t care how much load it COULD take! I want to know when it broke during testing. That’s why I ignore Maximum Breaking Strength. Ultimate breaking strength.
Purchase Gear that is rated for YOUR vehicle. I’m not buying gear rated for the guy in the hummer that got stuck without recovery gear. Each vehicle should have gear rated for their weight. Although, I’m happy to recover him. Lol
Look up the curb weight of your vehicle, add for bumpers winches roof rack wheels, tires and other gear.
Now that you are looking for ratings on gear you are considering, let’s add where the gear is made. Buy gear made in america. Need I say more? Recovery is a three day class and a life time of experience. Everything we do in Recovery Is dangerous and is trying to kill you. Get quality training buy quality gear. When u need it who cares what it cost.
if you can’t afford to buy all the gear you need at one time, add slowly. Never go off-road alone ask your wheelin partners/group what gear they have. Spread the load out.
You could afford a bronco so no excuses
recovery gear before light bars lol

I could go on but my thumbs are tired
Jmho

 

[BRBUSTER72]

Sorry if this is a stupid question for you that are experienced with synthetics, but how about using snatch blocks with it? Would you need one with a wider pulley or are there special made ones. Never have been around synthetic ropes but have used cables quite a bit.

 

[toymaster]

Sorry if this is a stupid question for you that are experienced with synthetics, but how about using snatch blocks with it? Would you need one with a wider pulley or are there special made ones. Never have been around synthetic ropes but have used cables quite a bit.

Yes, I use snatch blocks on every pull I can, easier on all equipment and slows down the pull; no need to be in a rush. In fact, if you need to rescue yourself, set-up the equipment and take a moment, rest, and go over in your head what you want to happen, then proceed deliberately.

I use the modern version of the snatch block, a soft shackle and recovery ring, which is extremely light. You can use an old school block as well just make sure no burrs are on the pulley that may damage the rope.

Amazon.com: Ucreative Winch Snatch Recovery Ring 66,000 lbs for Soft Shackle ATV UTV Recovery (Blue) : Automotive

 

[BRBUSTER72]

Yes, I use snatch blocks on every pull I can, easier on all equipment and slows down the pull; no need to be in a rush. In fact, if you need to rescue yourself, set-up the equipment and take a moment, rest, and go over in your head what you want to happen, then proceed deliberately.

I use the modern version of the snatch block, a soft shackle and recovery ring, which is extremely light. You can use an old school block as well just make sure no burrs are on the pulley that may damage the rope.

Thanks. I like to use snatch blocks because like you said, you are not in a race and slower is usually safer. Also, sometimes you need it because of where the pull or winch vehicle has to be spotted. They are handy.

 

[Merc4x4]

Yes, I use snatch blocks on every pull I can, easier on all equipment and slows down the pull; no need to be in a rush. In fact, if you need to rescue yourself, set-up the equipment and take a moment, rest, and go over in your head what you want to happen, then proceed deliberately.

I use the modern version of the snatch block, a soft shackle and recovery ring, which is extremely light. You can use an old school block as well just make sure no burrs are on the pulley that may damage the rope.

I liked those recovery rings the first time I saw them (compared to moving pulley).
I'll be adding one of those to my gear bag soon.
I also want to add a tree saver for moving logs and creating a 3rd point to attach the recovery ring for creating better angles to manage the direction of the object you're moving.

 

[BulldogBear]

Synthetic rope just falls to the ground with minimal (next to zero) whip back.
“Kinetic” rope is different and not what we’re discussing here.

I prefer synthetic rope as well, but it will not always just fall to the ground...


(if the video isn't queued properly, skip ahead to the 15 minute mark to see the synthetic rope recoil). The whole video is worth a watch if you want to really understand just how dangerous any recovery can become.

Minimum breaking strength (mbs) is the rating you’re looking for. Minimum tensile strength (MTS) is also sometimes used and acceptable.

Working Load Limit (WLL) is a reliable spec when working with rigging equipment - you want a safety factor of at least 5:1 regarding WLL.

As stated dirt, salt on your winch rope, any thing that works as an abrasive is what harms the rope. I was told not to use a power washer to clean a rope.

The best way to clean synthetic rope, as I've been told by experts and can verify from personal experience, is a bucket of warm water and soap. Slowly work your way cleaning the entire length of rope a section at a time through the bucket.

I recovered 3 side-by-sides in some AZ quicksand - when I got home and cleaned my rope, I got about 1/2 gallon of sand out of the synthetic rope, and another almost gallon out of an ARB recovery strap.

Stay careful out there.

 

[Tex]

A lot of guys are running synthetic these days, so much so that information for steel cable is kind of getting drowned out...so I figured it might be a good idea to touch on steel cable maintenance for comparison and a head's up for anyone on the fence.

For those of you considering or still running steel, remember that each and every strand contributes to its strength. If there are broken strands on your cable (it's pretty common practice to wear gloves as prevalent as they are), you've lost some of that strength. Most of the broken strands aren't even on the outside of the cable, you have to bend them to get the ones inside to show, and it's generally caused by internal friction (the sharper the bend, the more movement and friction is happening inside) or corrosion. Friction on winch lines are seen when the cable stacks on itself in the drum with a less than optimal wind, being crushed when driven over, using it on a sharp turn around something, etc. whereas internal corrosion is a little less obvious. The wire strands have a tendency to wick moisture and dew from the environment inward, and due to the moisture now being shielded by the outer strands, the cable holds that moisture long after the water on the outside evaporates. Consider that when you're inspecting your cable in the off season, not only should you be looking for kinks and running a rag over the cable to check for broken strands, you should also give it a good bend in several spots (don't kink it though lol) and/or twist the strands apart just a bit to get an idea of what's inside. If it's good, no harm done, but if you have broken strands there's a good chance they might not lay down again. Internal corrosion can often be seen with this method as well, but it's hit or miss. I've had to replace dozens of control cables in aircraft because they didn't pass inspection for the same reasons, even though they looked virtually new and aren't even subject to the kind of stresses and abuse we put on winch lines. If you find some issues with your steel, replace it...no sense in risking a break on the trail, because that's when you need to rely on it the most.

If you can find a company with a wire rope pressure lubricator, see how much it would cost for them to lubricate your winch line. Most cables are lubricated from the factory, however it's more for storage and that lubrication doesn't last a long time. Crane companies and drilling companies are the ones in my area that have helped me in the past, your area may have others. They might even do it for free if they've got nothing going on. Adding lubrication will not only extend the life of your line, but it'll also aid in preventing corrosion too. If done correctly it shouldn't feel overly greasy or oily, as too much will hold dust and dirt which will eventually abrade the cable strands as well. In a pinch, you can use a penetrating oil designed for wire rope, just give it a good cleaning first.

I swapped over to synthetic back when "plastic ropes" were so new that everyone scoffed at them, and I haven't once wanted to return to steel in all that time. It's well worth whatever additional cost it may have in your application. Synthetic may sound high maintenance with cleaning, avoiding UV (this is actually easy to address) and whatnot, but in truth it's less maintenance than steel if you're maintaining them both properly. Plus, what's not to like about that super easy field splicing? Man that alone was worth it in my book, only a Molly Hogan comes close to the ease of synthetic splicing and it still kinda sucks.

 

[toymaster]

I did the yankum fairlead to remove all metal. ......

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The main thing I have against the yankum setup is the exposed cable. The only way I would run that is on a trail only rig, trailer queen that is garage kept.

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and exposed cable???
Their design makes the fairlead the most forward part protecting the cable from rock rash.



vs

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By exposed, I mean to weather, not impact. And, that is a stock photo of the bumper I have ordered; I would never run exposed syn cable like that. In 4ish months when my bumpers arrive I'll post a pic below..... I was hoping no one would notice that!

......I was really tempted by the December deal on the Smittybuilt winch with synthetic rope for $430.

As stated dirt, salt on your winch rope, any thing that works as an abrasive is what harms the rope. ....

Well, never say never.

Looks like I'm going with a yankum fairlead on the rear winch of my Bronco. Price of the yankum was lowered and 15% sale is going on now, so $170 + $10 shipping vs the $250 plus shipping they wanted a little while ago. Got a warn and factor 55 upfront still though.

I figure the line is exposed to less on the rear than on the leading edge at 80mph. And the design will be lower profile which affords less interference with the rear bumper step. I'll see how it goes, I'm open to the possibility of migrating the same setup to the front.

In the promo video they state a covering over the naked loop is not needed, still not sold on it. However, the ease of cutting off the damaged end and making a new loop is allowing me accept the risk.

When I installed my rear winch on the JK the advent of affordable chinese made winches made the decision a little easier. Last time went with Engo brand, this time went with a Smittybilt 10K. Low price and includes a syn rope and wireless remote already. So first time with both smittybilt and yankum design fairlead. Still believe in a 'merican made Warn for primary recovery, but having a lessor winch as a cool factor or nice-to-have I'm good with.

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