I've had that damn wiring harness sitting in a box for a year now. Just can't motivate myself to do that bitch and a half of an install.
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Tow Hitch Install
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The 7 pin connector requires installing a brake controller on your Bronco. The 7 pin allows using a trailer with electric brakes. Most states require trailer brakes when towing above 3,000 lbs.
However, boat trailers with brakes don't usually have electric ones. Instead they have hydraulic surge brakes. Most boat trailers will require a 5 pin connector, which is like the 4 pin plus a 5th wire to your backup lights.
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Ive run across a wireless brake controller that Curt makes, and I also came across autow brake and they look like good options. Will this negate the need to run wires? If I can run someone like this, then what other wires am I missing? Would I just need to splice in a 7 pin end onto the Curt 4 pin harness, so that I can plug it into the Ford 4/7 mount?
https://getautowbrake.com/
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Or I can keep the Ford 4 pin end and bracket. Then just plug this right into it to be able to connect a 7 pin trailer
For some reason I donāt feel it would be that easy. Even if I was using the Curt wireless brake controller. Would I still be missing another wire from the battery ?
That adapter is for connecting a 4 pin trailer to a 7 pin tow vehicle, opposite what you have. If your trailer has a 7 pin connector, it has electric brakes. In that case you must have a brake controller, wired or wireless, for your tow vehicle.
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Here is the Curt mounting plate for those not wanting the plug to hang out. For $1 it's an easy choice.
CURT 58300 Vehicle-Side Trailer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049CGJAU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.html?hhyear=2023&hhmake=Ford&hhmodel=BroncoOr I can keep the Ford 4 pin end and bracket. Then just plug this right into it to be able to connect a 7 pin trailer
For some reason I donāt feel it would be that easy. Even if I was using the Curt wireless brake controller. Would I still be missing another wire from the battery ?
This is the kit to add 7-pin to existing 4 pin.
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Update 3:
Sorry Iāve been on hiatus for a while, went down to Key West for a bit to get away. Anyways, I decided to ditch the 7 pin idea and stick with the 4. I changed the box placement and I am going to put it behind the left tail light for a cleaner look. Iām going to use 3m double sided tape to adhere it inside the rear fender panel. I was able to splice together the Ford end onto the Curt wiring harness, that I finally received in the mail.
Iām using platform mounts to attach to wire ties, there is a good shot of what they look like in the pictures. These are great for keeping a cleaner look and keeping things in place. Tonight Iāll be running the wires through plastic tubing and getting it ready to install on the vehicle. After I get it all installed and plugged in, it should be ready to go.
In the meantime, does anyone have a good receiver they recommend (preferably and adjustable one).
Sorry Iāve been on hiatus for a while, went down to Key West for a bit to get away. Anyways, I decided to ditch the 7 pin idea and stick with the 4. I changed the box placement and I am going to put it behind the left tail light for a cleaner look. Iām going to use 3m double sided tape to adhere it inside the rear fender panel. I was able to splice together the Ford end onto the Curt wiring harness, that I finally received in the mail.
Iām using platform mounts to attach to wire ties, there is a good shot of what they look like in the pictures. These are great for keeping a cleaner look and keeping things in place. Tonight Iāll be running the wires through plastic tubing and getting it ready to install on the vehicle. After I get it all installed and plugged in, it should be ready to go.
In the meantime, does anyone have a good receiver they recommend (preferably and adjustable one).
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Update 4:
After messing with this thing some more last night, I decided to again move the box down underneath the tail light. There is a perfect spot down there that is flat and it will fit right down in there without removing anything additional. I also spent some time shortening the harness that I goes to the left tail light, as Curt made this very long, at least for the area I want to put it in.
In the end Iām going to have a near completely modified harness, which Iām okay with, because it will have tubing and tape around it to where youāll never be able to see any splicing. Adding some more pictures of where Iāve got now. Iām working on left side now, just need to figure out how long I need the ground wire. Last picture shows where Iām at with the harness so far, I shortened it just enough to go up the side of the tail light and plug in
After messing with this thing some more last night, I decided to again move the box down underneath the tail light. There is a perfect spot down there that is flat and it will fit right down in there without removing anything additional. I also spent some time shortening the harness that I goes to the left tail light, as Curt made this very long, at least for the area I want to put it in.
In the end Iām going to have a near completely modified harness, which Iām okay with, because it will have tubing and tape around it to where youāll never be able to see any splicing. Adding some more pictures of where Iāve got now. Iām working on left side now, just need to figure out how long I need the ground wire. Last picture shows where Iām at with the harness so far, I shortened it just enough to go up the side of the tail light and plug in
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Update 5 :
Got the wiring harness to the correct lengths (most of it) and decided to mount it on bronco. I ran into an issue, was easily fixed but it to be noted. I donāt know if it would be the same if you donāt use plastic tubing, but I had to route the left tail light wiring behind the trim piece and the tail light itself. It sticks out too far if you donāt, and wonāt let you mount the outside cover piece back on.
I took out the 3 plastic mount bolts that hold the small trim piece on, which Iāve circled in one of the pictures. Pop out the very bottom trim piece that wraps around the corner, only pop out the side by the tail gate. The other side is behind the fender guard. This will give you access to the bottom bolt. If you remove all 3 of these, it will give you just enough room to squeeze it behind the mounting tabs.
Tomorrow Iām going to run to the other side and see how much I need to adjust for length. I cut the power wire shorter because it was way too long and Iāll also connect that and screw the ground wire in. I think the time consuming part is behind, and itās just more adjusting the lengths. Iāve just been working on it a bit every night after work, but should have it done by this weekend.
The last picture shows where Iāll be doing the final routing. Try to mount everything you can behind the trim piece, it will keep it out of the way when you go to mount the outside cover back on.
Got the wiring harness to the correct lengths (most of it) and decided to mount it on bronco. I ran into an issue, was easily fixed but it to be noted. I donāt know if it would be the same if you donāt use plastic tubing, but I had to route the left tail light wiring behind the trim piece and the tail light itself. It sticks out too far if you donāt, and wonāt let you mount the outside cover piece back on.
I took out the 3 plastic mount bolts that hold the small trim piece on, which Iāve circled in one of the pictures. Pop out the very bottom trim piece that wraps around the corner, only pop out the side by the tail gate. The other side is behind the fender guard. This will give you access to the bottom bolt. If you remove all 3 of these, it will give you just enough room to squeeze it behind the mounting tabs.
Tomorrow Iām going to run to the other side and see how much I need to adjust for length. I cut the power wire shorter because it was way too long and Iāll also connect that and screw the ground wire in. I think the time consuming part is behind, and itās just more adjusting the lengths. Iāve just been working on it a bit every night after work, but should have it done by this weekend.
The last picture shows where Iāll be doing the final routing. Try to mount everything you can behind the trim piece, it will keep it out of the way when you go to mount the outside cover back on.
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anybody installed the LoD hidden 7/4 pin trailer plug? It tucks up behind the bumper
https://lodoffroad.com/products/2021-bronco-trailer-hitch-plug-mount
https://lodoffroad.com/products/2021-bronco-trailer-hitch-plug-mount
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Update 6:
I got the left side all buttoned and finished up. With the cover on, you can only see the biggest section of wire, which wonāt completely fit behind the panel. Once you get the panel on, you can put them over behind the bottom piece, and it should hide 95% of the wiring. I think the part that tweaked me the most was sanding down the paint off the frame lol.
After itās all said and done, Iāll pretty much have a custom length harness, I hated all the extra that was hanging everywhere, and quite frankly, I didnāt have the extra room to shove it all back behind the tail light. I also shortened the end that goes to the hitch so where you canāt see it. I need to look for bigger frame pins that have the built in wire tie. The ones that Ford provided are too small at this end of the vehicle. Tonight Iām going to finish up with the right side, which is A LOT easier. Then Iām going to hope everything works.
I ran into an issue that I wasnāt sure about. It seems that the Curt kit and the Ford kit came with two different sized fuses. The Curt kit comes with a 10 amp, while the Ford comes with a 15 amp. I checked the power wire from both, thinking that could have been the difference, and they both use 12 gauge wire. I then contributed it to the frequency of the box. The Curt came with a 10 amp, and thatās the box Iām using, so thatās also the fuse I decided to use. Hoping I donāt have any issues down the road. I did make quite a few splices in different areas, but they are all tight, and with heat shrink wrap on each one.
I got the left side all buttoned and finished up. With the cover on, you can only see the biggest section of wire, which wonāt completely fit behind the panel. Once you get the panel on, you can put them over behind the bottom piece, and it should hide 95% of the wiring. I think the part that tweaked me the most was sanding down the paint off the frame lol.
After itās all said and done, Iāll pretty much have a custom length harness, I hated all the extra that was hanging everywhere, and quite frankly, I didnāt have the extra room to shove it all back behind the tail light. I also shortened the end that goes to the hitch so where you canāt see it. I need to look for bigger frame pins that have the built in wire tie. The ones that Ford provided are too small at this end of the vehicle. Tonight Iām going to finish up with the right side, which is A LOT easier. Then Iām going to hope everything works.
I ran into an issue that I wasnāt sure about. It seems that the Curt kit and the Ford kit came with two different sized fuses. The Curt kit comes with a 10 amp, while the Ford comes with a 15 amp. I checked the power wire from both, thinking that could have been the difference, and they both use 12 gauge wire. I then contributed it to the frequency of the box. The Curt came with a 10 amp, and thatās the box Iām using, so thatās also the fuse I decided to use. Hoping I donāt have any issues down the road. I did make quite a few splices in different areas, but they are all tight, and with heat shrink wrap on each one.
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anybody installed the LoD hidden 7/4 pin trailer plug? It tucks up behind the bumper
https://lodoffroad.com/products/2021-bronco-trailer-hitch-plug-mount
Interesting
. Didnāt even know they made one that goes behind bumper, donāt know if I really like it. Looks out of placeLooks like it would be very difficult to plug into the 4 pin part.Interesting
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I agree, someone definitely modified that to fit there. I can tell by the almost 2 inches of bolt sticking out the other side lol.
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