Towing recommendations/solutions?

[BlueWaffle]

Can you explain a little more in detail how you went about doing this? How does the curt harness work with the ford wiring that’s there ? Aren’t they different plugs?

The curt harness gets plugged into the stock taillight harness and then the taillights get plugged into the curt harness.

Blinkers work just fine.. he's got a problem he's gotta diagnose.

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[Pokey_Cacti]

I just got the 7-way/4-way combo plug to mount by the hitch, no plugging tailights in. As I haven't towed yet and don't have plans to except when/if needed, I'm not concerned that only my trailer directionals wouldn't work.

 

[dgorsett]

Curt hitch and Curt wiring harness. Couple hundred bucks and a half hour of tour time, done. No need to remove the bumper, no need for forscan.. easy peasy.

Same for me, but if you can get the factory set up as an option do that. After the fact it becomes cost vs function.

 

[NC_Pinz]

I think I used Curt on my '22, both hitch and wiring. Works great and no issues. I'm not integrated with any control module so if there is sway control assist then I don't get that. Just lights and the ability to pull the trailer which is all I need.

 

[BigFootie]

IIRC, the built in wiring happened in 2024 when the hitch became dealer installed. Nor sure if it was job 1 or job 2. The wiring goes to the rear but as far as I know still requires the Ford signal converter and then FDRS or Forscan to update the system. As for the Curt hitches and wiring, I installed the hitch only and did not have to remove my bumper but that did require me to purchase slightly shorter bolts As the ones supplied would have required the bumper to be removed. The shorter ones still fully engaged past the nut so no changes to strength. As for the Curt wiring, like others have said, it’s plug and play with the existing tail light harnesses provided you get the correct version for the lights you purchased with your Bronco. One note, make sure the ground wire is actually connected to a chassis ground. This is the largest cause of failure to the conversion boxes supplied. Also, this will only support 4 pin trailers. Many trailers now over 2k capacity have electric brakes which will not work. U-haul trailers if renting, still use surge brakes and 4 pin connectors.

 

[ap5496]

Yea I for certain don’t need trailer brake control and only need 4 pin. It’s just to tow my little personal watercraft trailer 2 times a year and that’s it.

 

[BroncoChallenger]

I just don’t do enough towing and won’t do enough towing with my Bronco to justify it.

I refuse to buy an SUV or truck without a receiver on it, and prefer to go with the factory wiring systems. When we got our Bronco, I was glad to see it came with the factory tow package, even if it didn't add cooling capacity.

Here's why:
- the factory receiver, even if you never tow, is a good recovery point for the vehicle that is usually easily accessible. Aftermarket ones are usually as good or better.
- the factory wiring means no spliced wires, therefore a reduced risk of electrical issues down the road. It's not as big of an issue with the Bronco, but for other vehicles that also means a fully integrated trailer brake controller, which when needed is a beautiful thing.
- this doesn't happen on the Bronco, but on MOST other vehicles spec'd with an actual towing package, you also get upgraded cooling for the engine and transmission. More cooling power for both of those components are never a bad thing.

For your usage, you may be fine going the route you plan. And it sounds like the Curt harness doesn't splice wires, but it's still an extra connection point in the circuit that you don't need to create, when there's a harness RIGHT THERE at the back bumper to plug the factory one in to.

 

[ap5496]

I refuse to buy an SUV or truck without a receiver on it, and prefer to go with the factory wiring systems. When we got our Bronco, I was glad to see it came with the factory tow package, even if it didn't add cooling capacity.

Here's why:
- the factory receiver, even if you never tow, is a good recovery point for the vehicle that is usually easily accessible. Aftermarket ones are usually as good or better.
- the factory wiring means no spliced wires, therefore a reduced risk of electrical issues down the road. It's not as big of an issue with the Bronco, but for other vehicles that also means a fully integrated trailer brake controller, which when needed is a beautiful thing.
- this doesn't happen on the Bronco, but on MOST other vehicles spec'd with an actual towing package, you also get upgraded cooling for the engine and transmission. More cooling power for both of those components are never a bad thing.

For your usage, you may be fine going the route you plan. And it sounds like the Curt harness doesn't splice wires, but it's still an extra connection point in the circuit that you don't need to create, when there's a harness RIGHT THERE at the back bumper to plug the factory one in to.

It’s super frustrating that there are not any 3rd party options that plug into the factory harnesss…

 

[Nick72]

It’s super frustrating that there are not any 3rd party options that plug into the factory harnesss…

The easiest 3rd party option would be to get the Curt, or similar, light harness. It plugs inline with your taillights, but you have to make sure you get the correct harness based on the taillights you have, either halogen or led. The hardest part is running the included power wire from the battery to the rear of the vehicle.
This will give you a 4 pin connector which would be perfect for your stated use and the harness plus receiver is much less than the Ford OEM setup and there is no programming needed.

 

[ap5496]

Can I just hook the curt wiring harness to one of the non powered circuits for the aux switch? Then wire the non powered circuit to an aux switch and just have the aux switch on when towing? That could be an easy workaround to running the wire up to the battery?

 

[Rumbloki]

I would never use a Bronco hitch as a recovery point. It mounts to a cross beam that is full of holes. This is the main reason the tow capacity is so low. Hitches on other vehicles mount to the stronger side rails.

 

[ap5496]

Coming back to this….since I have a 24’ with the wiring already ran to the back of the vehicle. Would something like this work with that preexisting wiring?

I am trying to figure out a way to use that preexisting wiring while keeping the cost down. This paired with the curt hitch receiver would make sense but wanted to double check with everyone here to see if anyone knows if this is compatible with a 24’ (I know the part description says it is but just wanted to confirm as the preinstalled wiring makes this kind of confusing).

https://www.oemfordpartsoutlet.com/...pin-trailer-hitch-wiring-harness-vp2dz15a416a

 

[BigFootie]

Coming back to this….since I have a 24’ with the wiring already ran to the back of the vehicle. Would something like this work with that preexisting wiring?

I am trying to figure out a way to use that preexisting wiring while keeping the cost down. This paired with the curt hitch receiver would make sense but wanted to double check with everyone here to see if anyone knows if this is compatible with a 24’ (I know the part description says it is but just wanted to confirm as the preinstalled wiring makes this kind of confusing).

https://www.oemfordpartsoutlet.com/...pin-trailer-hitch-wiring-harness-vp2dz15a416a

This is for models that are not pre-wired. If yours is pre-wired, this is not the kit for you.

 

[ap5496]

This is for models that are not pre-wired. If yours is pre-wired, this is not the kit for you.

Thanks

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