Is this ground on the correct side of the battery monitor module?2.7 attached are some photos of the wiring arrangement
I think there is battery monitor module connection on the ground side.
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update - vehicle fixed by dealer, nothing to do with install, see first post- Installed arb compressor now multiple codes and limp mode
I think there is battery monitor module connection on the ground side.
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Grounds that I added are all now connected to the empty hole on the negative side of the battery terminal I would assume that that's is the correct side of this module but I could be wrong
The only thing I can come up with since you had not had this problem before install is this. You have 2 positive cables over lapping 2 existing oem cables on the 4 post buzz bar. I would take and move those 2 red positive cables outward to the end posts or both to the fender side post. I am running aux units myself and utilize the empty post closest to the fender. It may not make a difference, but then again I'm inclined to think that you maybe drawing from whatever the 2 oem positives are going to, causing a voltage drop. I would try moving your switch cables outboard on the buzz bar. After you do that, do a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then try again.
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I have since disconnected everything assuming that whatever I did was causing the issue tried clearing codes and battery disconnect reset. Still having issues
guess she is going to the shop tomorrow- First Name
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Do you mean fouled as in blew a fuse? Or in some other way that I wouldn't be able to check easily?
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12.4V is almost nominal voltage for these batteries, and probably is with a small draw while the ignition is on. It sounds like a textbook ground fault. Something somewhere isn't getting a proper connection, or your PCM plug got bumped and isn't fully seated...it's right below the compressor and with that mount it's difficult to access. I would start by disconnecting the battery and waiting for about 15min to let the modules go to sleep, check the ground above the mount and clean it up, then go to the ground in your pic, take that terminal and switch it over to the battery stud on top of that cable (just swap the smaller wire from the body side to the battery side). Check the PCM plug, and the other three plugs on the firewall right behind it...throw the levers, then push them back in as far as possible before using the lever to lock them back down. Go ahead and move the positive terminals around like Grumpy suggested (it's worth a shot). On the ground and hot terminals, before you fully toque them, wiggle the wires a little bit so the rings rub against each other to scrape off any crud or corrosion for best conductivity. Once you think you've exhausted and verified every possible change that you may have done with the install, connect the battery back up and see if it did anything. I doubt anything is smoked, but you never know.
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This issue is fixed see update in first post
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Do you know the wire or location so we can check our wires out for potential issues?
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Only that they said the dash had to be removed and that the cables were for throttle, I don't think it would be an easy visual inspection service person said it was the first one she saw so it might not be a common issue, my vehicle only had 1700 miles on it so it happened pretty quick
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